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  1. #1
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    Default Lite rust removal suggestions.

    A set of nice 5c collets followed me home a while ago. They are in good shape, all have rust not bad at all, Scotch Brite would do okay for the accessible areas. But I would rather use a liquid +/- ultrasonic cleaner to get inside and out. Any suggestions?

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    evapo rust...
    Available at tractor supply or HF

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    Another vote for evapo rust, good stuff.

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    Quote Originally Posted by doug8cat View Post
    ... I would rather use a liquid +/- ultrasonic cleaner to get inside and out. Any suggestions?
    In order of strength and toxicity, have used them all depending upon the amount of rust, rinse with water, then clean dry and lube the part:

    Vinegar in the 6% cleaning strength, dip or ultrasonic use.

    Methyl salicylate aka oil of wintergreen is a good rust dissolver, soak the part then brush off the rust.

    Muratic acid aka hydrochloric will dissolve rust in a hurry, not for ultrasonic use. Brush it on then be ready to quickly rinse in water, but it will also attack all exposed steel and can discolor/etch the surface.

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    I’ve used citric acid for rust removal. Can be bought on Amazon in powder form, doesn’t damage the metal. Also good for passivating stainless.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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    Quote Originally Posted by just4grins View Post
    I’ve used citric acid for rust removal. Can be bought on Amazon in powder form, doesn’t damage the metal. Also good for passivating stainless.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    That’s what most of the rust removers at the local Auto parts stores are.
    I use loctite naval jelly. It works great for me.

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    Quote Originally Posted by kenny256 View Post

    methyl salicylate aka Oil of wintergreen is a good rust dissolver.
    Tell me more! Someone gave me a gallon of that last year, have not found a use for it. In researching it I did find that it is toxic to cats and dogs(?), and people too if too much is ingested, the body turns it into acetylsalicylic acid (aspirin). It is active ingredient in sports rubs like Heat, and one athlete OD'd on it by applying too much.

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    Boeshield rust remover. Active ingredient : Phosphoric Acid.



    Been using it for over 12 years. Works pretty good. Can be had at Woodcraft or Rockler.

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    Quote Originally Posted by dalmatiangirl61 View Post
    Tell me more!
    Try it--test it out on an old rusty piece of metal. Brush it on or let it soak, turns rust into coffee grounds, wire brush and rinse it off. repeat until you like the results. It will dissolve plastic containers, so don't store it in a jug; glass is the best.

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    Quote Originally Posted by kenny256 View Post
    In order of strength and toxicity, have used them all depending upon the amount of rust, rinse with water, then clean dry and lube the part:

    Vinegar in the 6% cleaning strength, dip or ultrasonic use.

    Methyl salicylate aka oil of wintergreen is a good rust dissolver, soak the part then brush off the rust.

    Muratic acid aka hydrochloric will dissolve rust in a hurry, not for ultrasonic use. Brush it on then be ready to quickly rinse in water, but it will also attack all exposed steel and can discolor/etch the surface.
    The problem with vinegar and other acids is:
    If you leave it in the acid too long it pits the metal. Also too long and you get hydrogen embrittlement.

    I like the chelating type of rust removal. It's less harmful to the metal.

    I used to use the vinegar, still do on some things. But with caution.

    Use it on my big cast iron surface plate, because it's too big to soak. Just put a wet towel or paper towel on it.

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    I am a still a fan of molasses diluted around 8:1 with water. Here is the before and after pictures of a small Ralmike's hand tapper. It took a few days of immersion. I do lightly kick the bucket daily to mix the solution up. I like that it does not seem to harm the paint and is harmless.
    tapper_original.jpg
    tapper_rust_removed_1a.jpg
    tapper_rust_removed_2a.jpg

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    EDTA make a glacial solution and it is the same as evaporust without the fancy ph buffer action. Works fine if fully submerged. Any of these methods need full submersion or you end up with a line at the liquid/air inteface.
    EDTA is safe to eat and much cheaper then evaporust. It reduces rust about weight for weight.
    Bil lD

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    Bill, what is a "glacial solution"?

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    Ha- a blast from the past- In my younger days, we used Methyl salicylate as a tire compound on our slot car tires to make them sticky! So, if ya go slot car racing, get ur self some!! Those were the days! Pack up a sandwich, grab the box and a few $$ and Zoom!

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    Soft temper wire wheel in a bench grinder and brass pipe brushes with Kroil.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan from Oakland View Post
    Ha- a blast from the past- In my younger days, we used Methyl salicylate as a tire compound on our slot car tires to make them sticky! So, if ya go slot car racing, get ur self some!! Those were the days! Pack up a sandwich, grab the box and a few $$ and Zoom!
    Did you ever go over to the place in San Rafael with the HUGE wooden tracks ? Like, fifty feet long, six lanes wide with high-banked curves like Daytona ? It only lasted about six months but wow ....

    sorry for the interruption, but ... slot cars

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    Quote Originally Posted by crrmeyer View Post
    I am a still a fan of molasses diluted around 8:1 with water. Here is the before and after pictures of a small Ralmike's hand tapper. It took a few days of immersion. I do lightly kick the bucket daily to mix the solution up. I like that it does not seem to harm the paint and is harmless.
    tapper_original.jpg
    tapper_rust_removed_1a.jpg
    tapper_rust_removed_2a.jpg
    It’s not always harmless! Rather hard to swim in I take it.

    Great Molasses Flood - Wikipedia

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    WD-40 and Scotch brite.

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    If you use evaporust, be sure to keep the object fully submerged. Evaporust will eat a line around your item at the air/liquid interface.

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    I have had good luck with regular household white vinegar.


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