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Lodge and Shipley HELP

Adamsmf

Plastic
Joined
Nov 3, 2020
Yeah I got a 50s 20" standard lodge and Shipley at work. I got it back going as it had sat around for years to use as my personal machine. When I first started using it the thread stop worked great but quit after a while. So I did some research and thought I had enough info to press the handle apart and fix it. I tried pressing it apart in a hand press and it won't budge to afraid to put it in a hydraulic press. Can anyone please help me verify how to get it apart? I just don't wanna tear it up as I know replacement parts are hard to come by. I can upload pictures if needed. Thanks in advance.
 
If your talking about itens 6 and 7 on the pdf page. Those two can lock up in the housing by all of the oil, grease, crud, and make it almost impossible to get it unstuck from the housing. It's been several years since I dealt with it on the lathe I had. Don't press on anything, it should just drop out. Seem like I used a can of Brake Clean on until the nut fell out. And watch out for the ball! when the nut comes out! Ken
 
You have the Model X with the "square" ways as we used to call them. Mine had vee ways, was born a little later than yours. The fine feed attachment as I call it was not standard on my lathe. Not sure if it has anything to do with the fast threading feature on the lathe. Ken

I looked thru all of the manuals I have as well as everything on the Vintage Machinery website. The only reference that came close was in a catalog on the Selective Set lathe. Called it a multiple stop for the cross slide. Your setup doesn't appear to have any kind of multiple stops to use. Your video is too jumpy and not enough time spent on the parts that make up that assembly. Referring to the two pieces that go into the side of the cross feed housing that the fast threading stop is in.

I'll attach pictures of the micrometer fast threading stop that was on my lathe below. It may help you out, it may not. Ken
 

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Sorry for the jumpy video let me ask u this did u have to press the assembly apart?
 
I think I figured it out gotta press on the smaller diameter where the shaft goes in. Pressed on the larger one first time didn't budge. But when I initially took it apart I had the micrometer dial pushed out 1/8 of a inch just tapping it with a hammer. I'll let u know how it works out.
 
If the piece your trying to press out is bottom out. It may have created a "grease lock". Apply a little pressure, walk off, in a bit it should break loose. The arrangement as I showed in the pictures above will do the same if it bottoms out. I had a time getting the piece out on my lathe! When it came loose, it just fell out. Ken
 
Something or nothing -

If it's gummed and gunked up with old oil and coolant etc etc - assumoing there's no Alu in it, boil the whole assembly in a strong solution of washing (soda sodium carbonate) that will get it both clean and apart for you - with next to no effort or risk of damage.
 
I got it out there's 2 diameters inside the hole the shaft goes thru u gotta press on the small one. Its the one on the bottom. Plus it had a key sheared off inside thought I did that getting it apart but now I think that was why the stop wasn't working. Gonna clean it up and reassemble thanks everyone
 
Yeah I loved it when it worked. Gonna start a new thread for the gears soon. Sometimes it slips out and grinds real bad everybody at work gives me hell about it 😄. They wasn't laughing when they saw the parts it made tho. They say u can set the compound on a certain angle and use it to dial in. Then use the thread stop to come back to zero. Gonna have to try that. They say its really accurate.
 
Yeah I loved it when it worked. Gonna start a new thread for the gears soon. Sometimes it slips out and grinds real bad everybody at work gives me hell about it ��. They wasn't laughing when they saw the parts it made tho. They say u can set the compound on a certain angle and use it to dial in. Then use the thread stop to come back to zero. Gonna have to try that. They say its really accurate.

I just set the compound to feed straight in, the tool cuts on both sides, so what! Advance your compound your desired cut, have your cross feed at "0", at the end of the thread back the crossfeed out, go back to the start point, advance your compound your desired cut, "0" the cross feed and you are good to go.
 
Something or nothing -

If it's gummed and gunked up with old oil and coolant etc etc - assumoing there's no Alu in it, boil the whole assembly in a strong solution of washing (soda sodium carbonate) that will get it both clean and apart for you - with next to no effort or risk of damage.

is it a good idea to wash it with a pressure washer, something like this https://best-pressure-washers.co.uk/best-petrol-pressure-washer/. Or it can be a stupid idea?
 
The Monarch ee method states run the the tool in at an angle for most of the cut for reduced stress. At the end, the thread stop can be loosened, the tool fed straight in for finish cuts, to shave both sides of the thread=if desired.
For the most part, a L&S doesnt care witch way, but if a rh thread looks torn on the right flank, feeding the tool straight in for the finish cuts can help.
 
You have the Model X with the "square" ways as we used to call them. Mine had vee ways, was born a little later than yours. The fine feed attachment as I call it was not standard on my lathe. Not sure if it has anything to do with the fast threading feature on the lathe. Ken

I looked thru all of the manuals I have as well as everything on the Vintage Machinery website. The only reference that came close was in a catalog on the Selective Set lathe. Called it a multiple stop for the cross slide. Your setup doesn't appear to have any kind of multiple stops to use. Your video is too jumpy and not enough time spent on the parts that make up that assembly. Referring to the two pieces that go into the side of the cross feed housing that the fast threading stop is in.

I'll attach pictures of the micrometer fast threading stop that was on my lathe below. It may help you out, it may not. Ken
What diameter is that ball? Mine is missing.

Sent via CNC 88HS
 
I don't remember the size. Seem like it was either .250" dia or .312" dia. It wasn't a odd ball size, it was a standard size from what I remember. Sorry I'm not of much help.

Ken
No worries. I just remembered I have a selection of gage balls to work from.

Sent via CNC 88HS
 








 
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