Looking for "buttons" under set screws for locking
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  1. #1
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    Default Looking for "buttons" under set screws for locking

    Anyone know if there's a manufacturer that makes them. Getting tired of making them. Brass or plastic. Or if someone has 30 pcs. to fit 5 x .8mm holes. The print calls them crush buttons, but nothing found......thanks

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    Ray--

    Not a direct-hit answer to your question, but both nylon-tipped and brass-tipped setscrews are commercially available, from both the fastener suppliers and the tooling-component suppliers.

    You have a great weekend!

    John

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    I was also looking for them in a larger size to fit Swasey locking screws. How important is appearance? I thought of maybe using slugs punched from brass sheet using something like a RW hand punch?

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    Ray
    Most of the time I just find some scrap material and punch out small slugs to use. Carr has the tipped set screws. Another thing I use and have on hand most of the time is small brass and plastic ball to use.

    McMaster-Carr

    Andy

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    Ray,

    Would 5mm buttons punched from .062 aluminum work for you...I know where there are hundreds of pounds..free too!

    Stuart

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    Are these what you seek?

    McMaster-Carr

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    Quote Originally Posted by gbent View Post
    Are these what you seek?

    McMaster-Carr
    The difference here is that the "plug" does not turn with the screw.
    This make a difference sometimes.
    Bob

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ray Behner View Post
    Anyone know if there's a manufacturer that makes them. Getting tired of making them. Brass or plastic. Or if someone has 30 pcs. to fit 5 x .8mm holes. The print calls them crush buttons, but nothing found......thanks
    Tried yer fishing tackle box?

    Lead split-shot sinkers dog a screw right decently. Copper shot works, too.

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    Thanks for the posts guys. These need to be separate. I'll continue making them. Just a pain in the butt and time consuming. Plus it's a recurring job.

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    Not sure why they would need to be 2 piece, but I guess the customer is always right, ya?

    I've used these before and they are pretty nifty if you are clamping on a slight angle and need good contact.

    McMaster-Carr

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    If the crush button at the end of the locking screw mates with a threaded adjuster for locking position it must not rotate with the locking screw - the one piece stuff is locked together, won't rotate separately.

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    Quote Originally Posted by eKretz View Post
    If the crush button at the end of the locking screw mates with a threaded adjuster for locking position it must not rotate with the locking screw - the one piece stuff is locked together, won't rotate separately.
    Yep, that's the whole idea. They always want flat bottom (not dogged) set screws too, regardless of size.

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    Since these are tapped holes, what's the screw size? 0.8mm minor diameter looks like an M1. Maybe something here or maybe they can suggest a source:

    Crush Pads | MISUMI | MISUMI

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    Quote Originally Posted by KMoffett View Post
    Since these are tapped holes, what's the screw size? 0.8mm minor diameter looks like an M1. Maybe something here or maybe they can suggest a source:

    Crush Pads | MISUMI | MISUMI
    Thanks for that. I'll call Tuesday. It's a 5mm screw with .8 pitch, so they have them.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ray Behner View Post
    Thanks for the posts guys. These need to be separate. I'll continue making them. Just a pain in the butt and time consuming. Plus it's a recurring job.
    One old "Day Job" used a foot-kick "press" to make steel drill-rod slugs of about 1/8" and 3/32" with uncanny-clean ends.

    The "die" was three slices of flat Timken Graph-Mo in a guillotine arrangement. Outer two fixed to the base, center one to the ram, above.

    This works waaay better than just TWO shear plates, BTW. Easier to keep them rubbing tight so near-zero burr.

    Manually push the rod thru all three plates to a stop. Kick the treadle. Yah got TWO slugs, each go, not one. My task for less than a full day. At 88 cents an hour.

    But it made enough slugs in 4 hours or so to serve wotever the Hell they were used for to last for half the year.

    Should work a right treat with non-ferrous metals?

    Only tooling needed to make the die was a drill and one of Herr Pelz's OCD-accurate shop-fabbed "D" reamers. Yah can put SEVERAL sizes inta the same set of plates, too.

    Operating it wouldn't need an ancient foot-press.

    "FNG" took-over from Herr Pelz, dawn of the 1960's, he replaced the entire row of a dozen or so of those Dinosaurs clear down one wall... with ONE air-operated benchtop press...

    ... that even had "safety guards".

    Sech a novelty we had to be re-trained as to how to keep our hands out of the way of the sliding plexiglass safety barrier plates.. never having been stoopid enough to put them in harm's way for 40-odd years BEFORE the company had all that complicated BS!


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    Old-timer that I trained under in the maintenance shop used to keep a roll of solid-core solder and just nip off a small piece to drop in the bolt holes. Great way to get a grab on shafting without chewing them up. The solder deforms to a perfect fit, giving a very firm grab, yet easily removable.

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    Quote Originally Posted by pavt View Post
    Old-timer that I trained under in the maintenance shop used to keep a roll of solid-core solder and just nip off a small piece to drop in the bolt holes. Great way to get a grab on shafting without chewing them up. The solder deforms to a perfect fit, giving a very firm grab, yet easily removable.
    Now THERE's a thot!

    Such of the "Old Skewl" lead solders left are stashed in the attic.

    Got plenty of solid 95/5 Tin/Antimony lead-free. Which solders near-enough the same, but physically should be a lot closer to Brass?

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    Bird, rabbit, or buckshot , depending on the size of the hole

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    Quote Originally Posted by thermite View Post
    Now THERE's a thot!

    Such of the "Old Skewl" lead solders left are stashed in the attic.

    Got plenty of solid 95/5 Tin/Antimony lead-free. Which solders near-enough the same, but physically should be a lot closer to Brass?
    I think Marty was using a roll of 60/40, he had a few rolls in different sizes up to quarter inch. We used it for hi-temp pipe flange gaskets, make a circle and solder the solder. Flattens right out beautifully. I don't think it really matters what kind.

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    Quote Originally Posted by akajun View Post
    Bird, rabbit, or buckshot , depending on the size of the hole
    Different persuasions, here.

    I can't remember all that clearly so far back into my youth, but I THINK it was about a 30 mm and acted like an autocannon.

    Or so we usta brag when checking out which of us dating three GS-5's as worked in the same office had sent our GF's to a Monday morning shift wearing flat heels instead of Big Girl spike heels.

    Mind.. WE were the ones wore-out. You'd have to know 20-something wimmin'?



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