Looking to buy a replacement lathe, need suggestions. - Page 5
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  1. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by pavt View Post
    No, they have to be stopped in order to reverse things. IMHO that is good practice anyways. For example when doing metric threads, I'll have the lead screw and spindle in normal rotation, and just use the switch at the end of the thread to back the cutter to the start, not opening the half nuts.

    Another example would be setting up the reverse tumbler *before* taking a cut with the power cross feed.

    Or, reversing the spindle to take a cut on the backside of the part.

    I've had to use all of those methods in the last week. In all cases it takes planning ahead, you never shift a manual machine on the fly unless it was designed for it. And the hobby-sized machines that the OP is looking for, won't have that feature.

    EDIT forgot to add, yuo can flip the motor switch from forward to reverse without stopping, the SB was designed that way. Any other reversing (ie gears) it obviously has to be stopped.
    I am familiar with best practice, but I'm also a stickler for words and answered the op's question
    Quote Originally Posted by Subw00er View Post
    I have a follow up question someone on here may know. Which bench lathes have a forward and reverse linear feed capability without shutting the machine off? I often shave down from decent sized diameters and it would be handy if I could flip a lever to reverse the carriage direction back and forth.
    Subw00er
    Looks like you found a nice lathe! Not too big and in excellent condition, you might want to pick up a lottery ticket. Some of us old curmudgeons may be getting grumpy, that is what happens when you spend your evenings designing spare parts to keep your body going forever

  2. #82
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    Wow that cleaned up nice! And right here in NY too, how did I miss that??

  3. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by Just a Sparky View Post
    Nothing more satisfying than knowing how every single piece and component fits together on your machines.

    As far as oils,.....
    Thanks for the info guys.. I'll give those tips a try..

    I have a basic coarse and fine stone grinder now (and sometimes use a stone for finishing passes) but I get mediocre cuts from it, although the naked eye and finger says they're sharp. I've basically just migrated to carbide tips. I forgot to get the little headstock collets from him in the pics, so I gave a call, and he says "the grinders yours too." Happy day! I'll have to research what the little hopper and that silver wheel is all about.. I'm assuming some sort of grinding compound goes in there. One of the boxes I received had a ton of custom ground tools in it. I guess that's how he made them.

    Early bird Pavt!

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  5. #84
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    As for the threaded spindle, I have one on the Logan, and I have 3 phase. I have put the chuck on loosely, started the machine, slammed it to reverse, then repeated the fwd/rev transition 10 times, and never loosened anything.

    I'd not suggest CUTTING on any larger work than maybe 15mm diameter in reverse, maybe better not at all. But reversing has never ever loosened a chuck.

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  7. #85
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    Good info. Yah, I don't need to actually cut on the backstroke, It'll just skim it if the cross slide stays the same. I may give it a go if turning down a wood blank or something.. should be very light torque on that cut - usually just a quadruple interference cut as I whittle down a block.

  8. #86
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    Remember to clean up thoroughly after cutting wood on a metal lathe. Some types of sawdust are hydrophilic and will rust out your machine in the presence of humidity. Not to mention it will clog up and contaminate any unprotected surfaces with oil on them. E.g. your lead screw and rack, apron gearing, etc.

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  10. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by Just a Sparky View Post
    Remember to clean up thoroughly after cutting wood ..
    Good advice. I'm pretty anal w.r.t. cleaning. But I don't really have to worry about that with the REM oil I use.

    Quote Originally Posted by Just a Sparky View Post
    Also good advice to grab that carbide grinder. The nice wide work surface on them is extremely nice to have and they're often expensive to come by.
    00s0s_afd7i8vpbbwz_0ci0t2_1200x900.jpg
    Does that look like a CBN wheel to you guys on the left? Based on the distance to the platform, it looks like its not just the mount for one. I think I also see a lip in the back for the wheel mount.


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