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Looking for custom handwheel dial or a used dial that does 100/1000 roughly 1-1/2"od

Mike Gre

Plastic
Joined
Jan 8, 2017
Looking for custom handwheel dial or a used dial that does 100/1000 roughly 1-1/2"od

I have a Harding TM that was unfortunately automated with a hydraulic cylinder on the X axis:cryin:. I had to make a new leadscrew, end plates, and bushings. I am done with that but I need a new or used handwheel dial. I would be fine with something that needs a bit of machining. Shaft is .490 and OD on the dial should be roughly 1-1/2". I have attached a pic of another dial on the machine. Graduations are 1/1000 and 100 per rev. 10TPI lead screw. If anyone knows someone that can make or mark a handwheel dial for a decent price please let me know. Thanks for the help.IMG_2701.jpgIMG_2702.jpg
 
Graduations are 1/1000 and 100 per rev. 10TPI lead screw. If anyone knows someone that can make or mark a handwheel dial for a decent price please let me know. Thanks for the help.View attachment 224313View attachment 224314

"Decent price" doesn't look easy unless you want to make the bugger and send it off for engraving. Handwheel (not hard to find) and dial (tougher) separate goods, of course.

There are, OTOH, several Ammco disk brake lathe recycles on the 'bay at the moment for around $30-$50 as might get you up and running. Some just the graduated collar, others handwheel and all.

Might be cheaper - also arguably BETTER to adapt a caliper to DRO duty. TM doesn't have a great deal of travel.
 
Most of the machines I manufacture use 10TPI leadscrews, and I make micrometer dials in three sizes- all with 100
graduations. My smallest micrometer dial I'll have to measure the OD, but I engrave the numbers and graduations in about
FIVE seconds a dial on a special engraving machine. My larger dials are engraved in a CNC mill, and obviously take a bit longer and cost more money.
 
I have some original used Hardinge TM parts. I have the whole table feed screw and both end pieces with dial and hand crank. Too bad you went to all that work before asking.

Price $150 plus shipping.

Larry

DSC01433.jpg DSC01435.jpg DSC01434.jpg DSC01436.jpg
 
Bryan; If I made the dial with a 45 degree face what would you charge me to engrave it with numbers and graduations?
 
I would have been better off getting a stock feed screw and parts. At least I got some more time around a follow rest and acme threads. This is a strange mill though it was listed as a hardinge TM but has no overarm. I cannot find any information on it. If anyone knows what mill this is please let me know. IMG_2744.jpgIMG_2745.jpg
 
I would have been better off getting a stock feed screw and parts. At least I got some more time around a follow rest and acme threads. This is a strange mill though it was listed as a hardinge TM but has no overarm. I cannot find any information on it. If anyone knows what mill this is please let me know. View attachment 224421View attachment 224422

Well, the pictures are very helpful. Now I know you have a Hardinge BB4 mill.

I might have the BB4 parts you need. If you still have the original feed nuts, they have 7/16-10 square threads, not acme. So your acme screw will wreck the nuts.

Larry

BB4 Brochure - 001.jpg BB4 Brochure - 002.jpg
 
Well, the pictures are very helpful. Now I know you have a Hardinge BB4 mill.

I might have the BB4 parts you need. If you still have the original feed nuts, they have 7/16-10 square threads, not acme. So your acme screw will wreck the nuts.

Larry

View attachment 224433 View attachment 224434

I had to make a new feed nut as well since they tapped them to 1/2-13 for the end of the cylinder. However you say feed nut(s). I only saw one brass nut right side of the saddle recessed about 1/2". Am I missing something that there should be more than 1? At this point I am probably going to just try and put a dial on my new feed screw but if you have all the parts I need I would be interested in a quote. I did end up making everything new 7/16 - 10 acme.
 
I had to make a new feed nut as well since they tapped them to 1/2-13 for the end of the cylinder. However you say feed nut(s). I only saw one brass nut right side of the saddle recessed about 1/2". Am I missing something that there should be more than 1? At this point I am probably going to just try and put a dial on my new feed screw but if you have all the parts I need I would be interested in a quote. I did end up making everything new 7/16 - 10 acme.

The table feed nuts are in two parts. The inner nut is pushed all the way into a hole in the saddle and held with a set screw. The outer nut has fine threads on the outside and is screwed into the same saddle hole and retained with a steel lock nut. By adjusting the outer nut position, you can eliminate backlash on the unworn part of the feed screw. As I mentioned, the OEM longitudinal and cross feed threads are 7/16-10 square profile. The vertical feed is 1/2-10 square profile.

Larry

Bench mill screws 1 4.JPG
 
The table feed nuts are in two parts. The inner nut is pushed all the way into a hole in the saddle and held with a set screw. The outer nut has fine threads on the outside and is screwed into the same saddle hole and retained with a steel lock nut. By adjusting the outer nut position, you can eliminate backlash on the unworn part of the feed screw. As I mentioned, the OEM longitudinal and cross feed threads are 7/16-10 square profile. The vertical feed is 1/2-10 square profile.

Larry

View attachment 224540

That makes sense and a smart way to adjust for wear.

I just made and threaded a new inner nut to 7/16-10 acme out of brass used the existing set screw to hold it in then cut the fine threads on the outside of a piece of 4140 just long enough to be 1 turn from bottoming out while retaining the feed nut and reamed a 7/16 hole in it. I can see now that I have no way to adjust backlash for a worn feed screw. hopefully since it is new I will be a while from needing that adjustment.
 
The tooling I use to engrave my leadscrew nuts is for an exact size blank that is slightly smaller than 1 1/4 inches. The engraving tooling
engraves JUST a round dial with no 45 degree angle. So unless you come up empty handed, NOT exactly what you're looking for.
 
Mike, I have the same miller, mine is first generation Hardinge Cataract. What did you find for your dial?
I am looking for a replacement x axis barrel nut. How did you make yours, on the lathe or did you use a tap?
 
Mike, I have the same miller, mine is first generation Hardinge Cataract. What did you find for your dial?
I am looking for a replacement x axis barrel nut. How did you make yours, on the lathe or did you use a tap?

I have sets of very old taps for the Hardinge Cataract machines. I have the 5/16, 3/8, 7/16 and 1/2 inch, all 10 TPI square (not Acme) form in left and right hand. I think they were originally the property of a Hardinge rebuilder in Chicago. I also have a small selection of feed screws and other parts. On many Cataract and even some later machines, Hardinge sold replacement feed nuts in solid metal, leaving the rebuilder to drill and tap them to ensure that the screw would line up with the tapped hole after the dovetails were re-scraped.

The later Cataract bench millers had anti-backlash table nuts made in two pieces and were supplied already tapped, as shown below in post #13.

Larry
 








 
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