Looking for method to slightly chamfer/break edge of Induction hardened chrome rods
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  1. #1
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    Default Looking for method to slightly chamfer/break edge of Induction hardened chrome rods

    I have a bunch of Induction hardened chrome rods that I have had to machine for grinder slides. How do you guys recommend I put a decent chamfer on those chromed surface ends? They are un-godly hard. Carbide isn't the solution. I was thinking of using my belt sander with a ceramic bonded belt (essentially emery cloth) as it turns in the lathe, but that may make look like heck. Of course I would cover my lathe with paper towels before doing this.

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    CBN insert ??

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    lathe with tool post grinder or equivalent (mounted rotary grinder like dremel)? I have an beater lathe (emco compact 8) that is the po-man's cylindrical-grinder, and precision cutoff tool with abrasive wheels. I'd hate to do much grinding on a nice lathe.

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    Off line belt sander.
    One can make/clamp some stops/guides and control this within a few thou.
    A simple fixture on a surface grinder will split those thous if you have a grinder.
    CBN insert in the lathe nice but is the length qualified here?
    How does one put a .008 by 20 degree chamfer all around on a TPG-322 insert without spending a lot of money?
    Bob

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    Quote Originally Posted by caddguy View Post
    I have a bunch of Induction hardened chrome rods that I have had to machine for grinder slides. How do you guys recommend I put a decent chamfer on those chromed surface ends? They are un-godly hard. Carbide isn't the solution. I was thinking of using my belt sander with a ceramic bonded belt (essentially emery cloth) as it turns in the lathe, but that may make look like heck. Of course I would cover my lathe with paper towels before doing this.
    What kind of Harry Homeshop Kludge are you proposing ?

    "Lathe" should be enough.

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    I work with this stuff, you take your tool, and move from the outside, and slightly start just ahead, and roll the outer chrome plating into a facing cut.
    Sorry no photos, with news papers, to satisfy the forum troll!

    The machine can make a big difference, I use heavy duty manual lathes.

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    It depends on the material. I have cut some of this stuff that carbide tooling handled just fine and some that liked to eat carbide tooling for a snack. Some also peeled and cracked the chrome trying to cut with carbide, no matter the cut direction. Regardless, it will wear carbide rapidly either way if it's not junk material of the former variety.

    So it sounds like you already tried to cut yours with carbide and it is of the latter (yum, carbide!) variety, so my suggestion is also going to be to use a CBN tool or grinder.

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    Diamond lapping plate with part turning in lathe.

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    If the machine is ridged enough, Pacemaker, Powerturn, Axelson and such, I have been able to use cheap CNMG 432 inserts. A fellow I know uses a ceramic insert on a lighter import machine with good results.
    What we need is a shoulder that a seal can be slid over, and a product that looks good "never underestimate that".
    Any other way of finishing, or breaking the edge of the shoulder reveals the copper plated layer, and it looks weird, and takes more time to do it.
    If possible it is easier to use "chrome plated not induction hardened", but the IHCP has a hard layer maybe .060 or more, then this nasty gooey core, that is tough, but does not finish well.
    When I described rolling over the chrome into a facing cut is what you see when looking at a factory Caterpillar hydraulic cylinder rod, nice edge.

    eKretz mentioned something I run into sometimes ",bad material" good IHCP or similar is very expensive!

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    If the chamfers are not critical you can roll the rods away from you on a table while hitting the corner with your belt sander for a quick deburr.
    If they are critical and you are eating through carbide inserts, try CBN (Cubic boron nitride).
    Make sure you approach the chamfer where the insert is strong and use different portions of the insert so a groove doesn't appear immediately.

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    90 degree angle die grinder with sanding pads. Works surprisingly quick, even on induction hardened chrome rods.

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    Too little information on what you expect in terms of results A 1" x 72" 120 grit ceramic slack belt at 6500+ sfm and hand feed might be perfect. If the spec is a it more exacting then perhaps hard-turning "by the numbers"

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    How hard is ungodly?

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    How many do you have to do and how tight is the spec for chamfer/radius? If it's just a few parts and a generous tolerance, get one of those diamond-plated paddles in a reasonably coarse grit. A few strokes by hand will take the edges right off.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gobo View Post
    How hard is ungodly?
    If the part has been chromed.... it's fookin hard! Grinding it is usually the best way to cut it, even then it's still not fun.

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    I'm pretty sure you can chamfer IHCP with carbide, just don't run the speed too high. This is a good situation to broadside some old CNMG inserts, set at the proper angle to 'use up' the 4 sides of the inserts that seldom get used. Don't use the tip of the insert at all. Chamfer broadside, and then withdraw the tool and begin the facing cut BELOW the hard zone.

    As per usual, I would recommend using a ceramic, such as Greenleaf WG300, which is a very tough insert and you can use the tip of the insert, but only on the hard zone. Switch to a different tool to face the chewy middle of the bar.

  21. #17
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    Looks nice may have different thoughts here.
    Carbide/CBN may leave chips or flaking of the chrome.
    Grind or sand with the chrome in compression to the shaft might leave a "better looking" transition.
    Bob


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