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Low temp release metal adhesive

deemoss

Plastic
Joined
Jan 16, 2020
Hi All!

Do you know of any metal adhesives that will release (melt) at low temperatures i.e. below the temp of boiling water (212F/100C)?

I have a special requirement where the adhesive will be used as a "retaining compound" for an application that requires easy dissassembly (cannot use a torch for example).

Thanks!
 
What are the strength requirements during use? If very light duty, there are a number of waxes that might work. The 'home-made' machinable wax formulas could be adjusted somewhat for softening temp.

For more strength, fixturing alloys like wood's metal are good but I'm not sure how well they adhere to smooth surfaces.
 
I've seen stick shellac used to fixture metal parts for finishing, we used a lighter to melt it, but it dissolves in alcohol? There may be a version that has a lower melting temperature, I know it's used to repair music instruments.
 
Use dent pulling glue sticks, releases easily by squirting with iso prop alcohol, sucks right under.
I find the black one good.
Mark
 
Look up cerrobend. There are different alloys that melt as various temperatures, some as low as 158F.
 
Look up cerrobend. There are different alloys that melt as various temperatures, some as low as 158F.

He's asking for an adhesive to stick metal to something, not a metal to act as an adhesive (not really sure what that'd be? A low temperature solder?)

To the OP: If the use has low shock loading you can often just glue it on with cyanoacrylate adhesive (super glue) and when done pop the part off with a sideways blow using soft-face hammer. When the use is super easy I've used 2 sided tape - the stuff on mylar, not the foam stuff. Just make it a little warm and the part pulls off.
 
I had a job that required thinning washers to .032 . I hot hide glued them onto a 10" round piece of MDF .
MDF is very flat. The MDF was bolted to a face plate. I applied the glue and let it cool down. Then placed as many washers as I could fit on the Mdf . Then applied heat with a heat gun and pushed the washers down with a wooden stick and rolled them with a laminate roller.
The washers were removed after thinning with the heat gun.The residual glue removed with hot water and a bit of elbow grease.
 
Hey guys, thanks for your educational ideas!

Here are my thoughts on your ideas and how they apply to my situation.

Cyanoacrylate - Hammer blow option not available
Low melt solders - Toxic?, no access to joint location
Wax - Not strong enough? (need to research that)
Hide Glue - Looks like a viable option! (didn't even know hide glue existed :) Not sure how it works on metals but will run experiments)

I will reply back with the results!
 
I use hot melt glue gun glue to hold thin brass for milling. It takes a little higher temp than boiling water, but not much. I clean up by reheating, sliding the part off the plate, wiping off as much glue as possible, and a little soak in kerosene does the rest.

By the way, I found shellac did not hold nearly as well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I have never had much luck with Crystalbond (problems with consistency of results in my hands), but for low-strength applications shellac has been good. In flake form, dissolves in most common alcohols and melts in the range required here - as low as 115 deg F for some, max 170 deg F. Many watch and musical instrument makers are familiar with it.

-Marty-
 
not sure i understand exactly what you are doing, but this may help. there is a film adhesive that we used to mount hot stamping dies in the 80s. it was not sticky, you would lay a few pieces on the back of the metal plate then close the hot press on it, the heat would activate the adhesive and it would stay solidily bonded until you gave the metal plate a sharp side whack which would make it pop off. it worked great. I saw it available not to long ago, perhaps on a steel rule die makers site. "heat activated mounting film"?
 








 
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