Thread: The lowest odor coolant?

I have tried qualichem 250C which was ok but had issues after a while, then tried Mecca green AL which turned out to smell worse and stronger. Looking for another option. I'm in a garage with mistaway collector but it still just gets unbearable after a while especially when coolant starts getting old.

Try Master Chemical E206. It's an EP type multi metal usable. I used it in my garage for 10 years without trouble. Ran it about 7-8%. Keep the ratio right and and remove the oil on top every once in awhile with your shop vac and you should have no problems. It smells of coolant, barely, but I cannot think of a time when I was overwhelmed or even bothered by it including right from the start. You must have a refractometer. If you don't, get one and use it. Otherwise don't be on here complaining about your coolant.

I'm positive my coolant batches lasted over a year. Use a mix of tap water and RO or DI water for the first fill. For makeup do to carry off and evaporation, use distilled or get an RO/DI unit from your local aquarium shop to save yourself trips to the grocery store for 90 cents a gallon distilled. Putting an aquarium bubbling device on a timer never hurts either.

Just noticed your name is Lazyman. Doesn't sound promising in the realm of coolant maintenance. This stuff is very forgiving. May still work for you no matter how hard you abuse it. Mine has never once gone rancid.

Don't forget that Mistaway is going to need cleaning too. It's like the shop dust collectors. What they really do is keep the dust that passes thru the filter airborne instead of settling out. A dirty Mistaway will keep your shop smelling like nasty coolant.

Dave

What makes coolant go rancid? Looking at coolants myself, and not having fond memories of the smell. Shop and home in same building, would like to keep smell minimal.

It's usually bacterial growth that makes coolant go rancid. Filter it to extend its life.

Met a woman decades ago, with a PhD in something like biochemistry, who worked in R&D at what was then Cincinnati Milling Machine Co. -- aiming to deal with the issue.

I have found 250C stinks like ivery soap for a few days and then has vary little stink to it .... I used the E206 before changing to 250C and it was great on steel but was crap for alum parts ,,, The E206 is a old school super hi oil coolent and makes a hell of a mess

do you test the coolant before adding to it ? the 250c has vary little carry off and I only use about a 2% mix to top the tank off and I keep the tank right about 7% mix .... If I am going to run steel parts I just don`t top off the tank for couple days and let the mix get up to 9 or 10% and it works better on steel ..

Like all coolant you have to clean the tank out every few months and filter the coolant to keep it clean .. I wire the legs shut on a pair of old blue jeans and hang them over a clean trash can then just pump the coolant thru the pant legs ,,, best filter I have found

Well, there's always oil......

As one reply stated, use DI or RO water to fill up the first time. If your coolant is getting stinky fast than the pH is probably high in your water. The bacteria that live in coolant require a higher pH and they will raise the pH as they grow. You can add an aquarium bubbler to aerate which kills the bacteria. Get yourself a refractometer and a pH test kit. First step is maintaining a low pH. Otherwise it's like fighting a fire with a squirt gun. Since you've already had a bacteria problem, flush all of your pumps and lines at least once using water and whichever sump cleaner is recommended for the coolant you are putting in. If you don't remove the old bacteria then you are wasting a lot of time and money with your fill up. Some people have really good tap or well water and this alone will allow them to have good coolant for a year or so. You can check your water for dissolved solids by buying some DI water from the supermarket and use it to zero out the refractometer. Then put your tap water on it and see where it falls. Haas has an awesome video that explains proper coolant maintenance. It will change your relationship with coolant.

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We use TRIM 685 and have NEVER looked back. I had a shitload of coolant issues with it going bad and smelling up the building. Went to Trim 685 ten years ago and ZERO issues. I do have to add an additive in the machines that cut 100% aluminum to improve the finish.

Go to your local pet supply store and buy a $30 aerator, drop it into your tank. This will solve most odor problems.

Has anyone tried UV to kill the bacteria? I'm working with a customer on a Zebra fish research farm. One of the parts is a bactericidal UV pass-through chamber. Maybe one of these with the internal submersible circulation pump?

https://www.amazon.com/AA-Aquarium-S...3136864&sr=8-5

Thanks for responses. Main issue for me is very small shop and I cant open it up much do to noise. I'm looking for least smell before it even goes rancid. Yes I know its all going to smell one way or another just looking for the least potent. Currently running an tube oil skimmer and fish bubbler so coolant isn't getting foul quickly, just feels potent in my tight space. Perhaps ill try the hepa filter attachment for the mistaway but I'll have to rig something since the ceiling is too low.

Just noticed your name is Lazyman. Doesn't sound promising in the realm of coolant maintenance. This stuff is very forgiving. May still work for you no matter how hard you abuse it. Mine has never once gone rancid.

My lazyness does motivate me to make everything as easy and efficient as possible though.

How does temperature affect coolant going rancid? Previous shops were in equitorial Texas where shop temp rarely fell below 100F in summer, new shop will rarely go above 75F in summer, and with heat off in winter temps hover in the mid 30's to low 40's. I would think tendency to go rancid would be lower, but maybe not?

A cup of Clorox does wonders in killing bacteria and neutralizing odors. Cheap fix also.