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lubricant that is easy to wash off, ?

surplusjohn

Diamond
Joined
Apr 11, 2002
Location
Syracuse, NY USA
we have a flange forming operation on steel sheet metal tubes. we were using stick lube which did a good job but occasionally would not wash off completely and would cause the powder coating to fail. we then went to spray lithium grease, which was better, but still caused some problems, I then tried liquid dish soap which provides acceptable lubrication and obviously washes off easily, but now we are having trouble with the soap causing the bearings in the foaming rollers to seize up. so I am looking for suggestions. [our guys have already suggested ky jelly]
 
How about case sizing lube? The kind used for sizing cartridges for reloading. RCBS and Lee both make water soluble sizing lube.
 
I do some second op parts on a manual mill and use 250C coolant right from the bucket and it works great and comes right off in warm water , you might try it.
 
i have water soluble tapping lube. obviously high pressure. might be too expensive.
 
Maybe a different angle.

Look at the tools that form the material.

Can you make new rollers, dies, etc. from a nylon or other non marking
material, and get rid of all lube ?
 
How about pure water and lots of it. It is as cheap as water. I think air is the only thing cheaper. My neighbor liked using water for drilling electrical stuff since it is self cleaning. No need to degrease after drilling to improve conductivitly.
Bill D
 
I do some second op parts on a manual mill and use 250C coolant right from the bucket and it works great and comes right off in warm water , you might try it.

I'm assuming that 250C is a soluble oil? That's what I would go for. I use un-cut soluble
coolant for tapping or drilling all the time. Rinses right off without leaving a big mess,
or needing a bunch of soap to clean.
 
we have a flange forming operation on steel sheet metal tubes. we were using stick lube which did a good job but occasionally would not wash off completely and would cause the powder coating to fail. we then went to spray lithium grease, which was better, but still caused some problems, I then tried liquid dish soap which provides acceptable lubrication and obviously washes off easily, but now we are having trouble with the soap causing the bearings in the foaming rollers to seize up. so I am looking for suggestions. [our guys have already suggested ky jelly]

It shudda been "Astro Glide", not K-Y.

:D

"Long ago and far way.." folks were tryng to find lubricants that could stand forming of ... lot's of things..

Key to success sometimes came when incorporating AS a "lubricant" a coating that enhanced, rather than degraded, subsequent operations. Foodstuffs to textiles to leathers to woods to metals to warfare.

Did not NEED removal at all, IOW.

EX: artillery projectile extruding:

- One method porcelainized the blank. The glass-enamel flowed under extreme pressure to serve as the lubricant.

- Another method phosphatized. The Iron Phosphate became the lubricant.

- Reinke Shake put ribs into sheet aluminium to simulate wooden shakes and gain incredible wind-resistance. Their "paint" is already on the flat sheet before they are formed into ribs. It is STILL on them 35-plus years later. Same-again standing rib roofing.

Can you pickle, phosphatize, Parerize, ceracoat.. or find a PRIMER that could stay there and actually enhance the powder-coating's cling?

Research whom had the worst and least paint problems on first-generation aluminium-bodied automobiles, for examples of what had to be dealt with.

Do you have competitors who know things you do not yet know?

Well. Probably. We all do. Ever had a woman wander-off with... never mind...

Now.. how to find out what.. and whether you can use it!

Might inquire on PM?

Oh.... wait...

:D
 
We use dawn dish detergent. Lubes well but we have to watch the bearings in the forming rollers and keep those soaked in oil when not in use. But powder coating problem went away
 








 
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