Make a lathe tool holder for this Iscar APKT 1003 PDR-HM insert (for milling)

Inserts without a milling head are just sitting here. And I don't need another milling attachment.

ISCAR Cutting Tools - Metal Working Tools - APKT 1003PDR-HM : 5600493 - APKT 1003PDR-HM

What holder is used with these circular inserts?

Valenite Carbide Inserts - RCGTX 3.42A VIN - Qty. 4 New! | eBay

Mud gave me some input a number of years ago that allowed me to make a face mill for APKT inserts.
It works extremely well.

Then i made a stick tool, to use them on my planer.
They work "OK" for hard metal.
The same tool could be used in a lathe, but my largest lathe is a SB10K. So while the bit is too small for the planer, it's a bit large for my Hardinge & SB lathes.











smt

Just FYI if you want to try it anyway, but that geometry probably won't break a chip worth a darn.

eKretz said:

Just FYI if you want to try it anyway, but that geometry probably won't break a chip worth a darn.

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If I knew more about the angles I probably would agree.

To me it appears that the bit would be traveling in a straight line on a lathe. And travel in a circular line on a face mill head.
If the angle is the same what else is there? Is it that the point is no good but only the side faces?

rons said:

If I knew more about the angles I probably would agree.

To me it appears that the bit would be traveling in a straight line on a lathe. And travel in a circular line on a face mill head.
If the angle is the same what else is there? Is it that the point is no good but only the side faces?

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On a milling machine while face milling the tip only cuts for half a revolution of the cutter, so no stringy chips have a chance to form. They are automatically broken once every revolution of the cutter, so generally a molded-in chipbreaker is unnecessary. On a lathe you make a continuous chip the entire distance you cut. With no chipbreaker molded into the insert, you're probably going to get birdnest city if you turn with that insert. As I'm sure you are already aware, stringy chips are very dangerous on a lathe at carbide speeds.

There's also the fact that the trailing edge clearance angle on those is very small, so unless you've got a rigid machine or turn the holder so you have more lead angle and better clearance on the trailing side there might be a little tendency toward chatter, and a LOT of tendency for those stringy chips to get jammed in between the trailing edge of the insert and the workpiece, scratching and galling the finish.

Just something to think about; it may not be worth doing. You might be money ahead to sell the surplus milling inserts and buy something else purpose-made for turning.

eKretz said:

As I'm sure you are already aware, stringy chips are very dangerous on a lathe at carbide speeds.

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In wood turning they have records of who makes the longest continuous chip.

In stainless I'm not new to a stringy mess. But that is with cemented carbides that are that on top.

I often grind cemented carbides on diamond stones by hand. I can also stone out chips that would make an insert less effective.
I often forget to use my insert holders because the cheap carbides are doing ok. The insert lathe tools are for threading and finish work.

I suppose i could just try the planer stick tool shown, on a lathe, but while we are speculating.....

Ron, it is a very easy pocket to make. I mean a single pocket stick tool is probably not 1 hour at the mill.

My experience with mine on the planer and shaper is that it breaks the chips a little more than i'd prefer for clean-up.
(see photo above) but that piece is probably ductile iron. (10 - 12 years ago, who can remember? )



This is a more typical finish grind for steel, using HSS tool, for comparison of non-broken chips.
Knock one out and try it. Heck, to experiment, the pocket geometry could be straight-wall, just something to back it up a little for some test cuts. #5 SH cap screw to hold it down for the test.





My disappointment with the stick tool on the planer/shaper is that it does not give all that nice of a finish. Somewhat torn.
But i use it more for roughing hard or welded stuff, and never dialed the process in. The limit on those machines, is that the APKT geometry does not anticipate the kind of infeeds a person might prefer or be more familiar with to make rapid progress. I don't know how that relates to a lathe, but curious enough to try it later today or this weekend.

smt

Looking at the dust all over the tool and workpiece, I'd say that picture is definitely iron. Cutting steel on a lathe will be a lot different story. But if you have the time, hey, go ahead and try it, can't hurt to do a quick test.

stephen thomas said:

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How did those teeth get cut? Dividing head?