Making my own handwheel collet closer - material question - Page 2
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  1. #21
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    I made the handle out of aluminum and the thrust washer out of Delrin.
    dscn0291.jpg

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  3. #22
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    There's a reason that factory collet closers have real thrust bearings - they work poorly without. These are easy to add:







    You can build 'em with a washer or whatnot - they just don't hold well. Parts sown above are a couple of bucks from MSC.

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  5. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by cyanidekid View Post
    That’s the stock part. I don’t know enough to say they are all like that, but I didn’t modify it, and the shop it came out of almost certainly didn’t either.

    (One more reason to just buy the stock drawbar..save a lot more in time than you have sunk in materials, unless you have nothing much else to do... )
    I do have some "real" work to do with the machine but I am also looking for simple projects to get comfortable with the lathe.

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  7. #24
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    Here’s mine. Started with a piece of tubing the appropriate OD and ID then bored and threaded for a 5C collet on one end. The other end got threaded outside for the hand wheel. Hidden in the recess of the hand wheel is a thrust bearing that bears on the step in the spacer, which bears on the spindle. The hand wheel is held on with lots of blue loctite. I first threaded a lock nut on but it kept unscrewing. Loctite solved that. I am going to add some tommy bar holes because my left hand gets worn out tightening the closer if I have lots of pieces. All made on the lathe it fits except for the gripping surface, done with mill and dividing head.

    09c64fc8-7a51-4e7d-9e20-97c4350d134d.jpg

    d98e787a-90c2-4c83-bf60-d6df4d3a3bff.jpg

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  9. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnEvans View Post
    12L14 rusts just looking at it! I used plain old 1018 mild steel when I made closer's for both of my lathes. Bought thrust bearing and washers from McM/C ,also made my own draw tube out of DOM tube.
    Thanks John for the material tip. The 1018 turns real nice on my machine!

  10. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnEvans View Post
    12L14 rusts just looking at it! I used plain old 1018 mild steel when I made closer's for both of my lathes. Bought thrust bearing and washers from McM/C ,also made my own draw tube out of DOM tube.
    Fantastic advice John, again many thanks. Got the thing done, except for a setscrew to keep the tapered collar in place when not in use. I'm also tempted to add and oil hole like stock.

    p1050604.jpg

    p10506646.jpg

    p10506651.jpg

    p10506635.jpg

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  12. #27
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    Bad ass system using a single Timken bearing for thrust, having the benefit of pulling the bar to the center of the spindle. Also, the 5c chuck is adjustable for radial run-out.
    If any part of the system runs out more then .002" vibration will creep in at 3000rpms and above. The effect of vibration causes a part not supported buy a tailstock to be larger on the outer end.

    Handwheel closers are not sold anymore because, a collet can fail, break off at the threads ejecting the draw bar out of the machine. So, be aware.

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  14. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin T View Post
    Thanks John for the material tip. The 1018 turns real nice on my machine!
    That should do fine for a long time, but...

    IF.. you find you have to make a new one someday because heavy/long use has 'lobed" the taper? Give a thought to using 4XXX pre-hard.

    Or even 8620 and carburizing (at least) the taper closer working area.

    Good stuff, old "ordnance steel" 8620. Not your FIRST choice to be welding on, but it takes to it far, far better than the 4XXX cousins do.

    Very similar alloys, most of their components. Both of them machine very sensibly. Otherwise, 8620 has enough carbon to case-harden as well as through-harden.

    "User's choice", IOW.

    And f**k the leaded steels. If yah can't cut anything but rusty cheese? Yah should be turning Pepper-Jack! Then at least the chips could be used for mini-pizzas and toasted sammiches!


  15. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by thermite View Post
    T
    IF.. you find you have to make a new one someday because heavy/long use has 'lobed" the taper? Give a thought to using 4XXX pre-hard.
    Even hard collet sleeves lobe wear over time. It's lapping wear really. Both parts wear. But the sleeve doesn't wear where the
    collet doesn't bear....

    The 1018 will last a long long time.

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  17. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by jim rozen View Post
    Even hard collet sleeves lobe wear over time. It's lapping wear really. Both parts wear. But the sleeve doesn't wear where the
    collet doesn't bear....

    The 1018 will last a long long time.
    Truly.

    The rate we usta-bee worker-bees, NOW relegated to hobbyshits in a hard-driving CNC wurld run our Old Iron?

    Red Brass would probably "last a long time", too!


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    Quote Originally Posted by donie View Post
    Bad ass system using a single Timken bearing for thrust, having the benefit of pulling the bar to the center of the spindle. Also, the 5c chuck is adjustable for radial run-out.
    If any part of the system runs out more then .002" vibration will creep in at 3000rpms and above. The effect of vibration causes a part not supported buy a tailstock to be larger on the outer end.

    Handwheel closers are not sold anymore because, a collet can fail, break off at the threads ejecting the draw bar out of the machine. So, be aware.
    I like that bearing integrated into the design! My machine tops out at 980 RPM's so hopefully no material breakdowns! There is a chamfer on the ID of the spindle that my collar engages for axial alignment.

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  20. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by thermite View Post
    Truly.

    The rate we usta-bee worker-bees, NOW relegated to hobbyshits in a hard-driving CNC wurld run our Old Iron?

    Red Brass would probably "last a long time", too!

    The amount of time I will be using it guarantees it will outlast me!

  21. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin T View Post
    The amount of time I will be using it guarantees it will outlast me!
    My age, that could be true of a bottle of whiskey.. or even decent underwear..



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