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Metral door hinges. Have you tried this method?

rons

Diamond
Joined
Mar 5, 2009
Location
California, USA
Metal door hinge adjustment method?

Buildings move about. Especially as some of you Kalifornians know ...

I'm not an expert in door hanging but I've done a few. A lot better than my house builder. Such as open a door and let go. the door keeps moving half way in under 5 sec. What a joke.

The frame hinge and door hinge mate with a pin. For an outside door I noticed that the hinge parts where not aligned. I mean the cylinder portion is not in line with
the flat mounted section. This being a door with three hinge sections which is normal for what I have seen for residential and most industrial/businesses.

I removed a few hinges that did not look in alignment. Clamp the flat part of the hinge, then gently strike the cylinder section either way. I was able to bring the height of my door up by 1/8 inch. By striking out the bottom hinge. I might probably tap each hinge cylinder a little to move the door horizontally by a little too.
Perfect alignment. Method can be done without removing the door because only one hinge is done at a time. Is this adjustment typical?

The earthquake fault lines are at 90 degrees to this door frame and that is the way it is...
 
When I mount hinges I make sure there is a plumb witness line to align the hinges so the barrels line up. Other thing is to buy the hinges in pairs (or threes) because they not only vary from manufacturer to manufacturer but sometimes even from the same manufacturer over the years.
 
I don't know what a metral hinge is.

In any case....the professionals here in Houston*, when faced with a door that doesn't stay where you put it, remove one or more of the hinge pins. Then they place the pin(s) in a position where they can bonk it with a hammer, so it is no longer as straight as it was prior to the bonking. They then reintroduce the hinge pin unto its hole and tap it in place using, most often, the same hammer.

This adds some resistance to the hinge and causes the door to stay where you told it to stay.
 
I don't know what a metral hinge is.

In any case....the professionals here in Houston*, when faced with a door that doesn't stay where you put it, remove one or more of the hinge pins. Then they place the pin(s) in a position where they can bonk it with a hammer, so it is no longer as straight as it was prior to the bonking. They then reintroduce the hinge pin unto its hole and tap it in place using, most often, the same hammer.

This adds some resistance to the hinge and causes the door to stay where you told it to stay.

Metral? That vest given to Frodo Baggins from the Elves was made from that material.

I am going to try that with my interior door that swings open by itself. Thanks.
 
61y1bD-k6zL._SL1024_.jpg
 
The shim idea there raises the hinge above the flush position to the frame. Will work. but those house hunters who examine door frames and other construction
mistakes will call foul.
 
The shim idea there raises the hinge above the flush position to the frame. Will work. but those house hunters who examine door frames and other construction
mistakes will call foul.

You identify what you consider a problem.
What is your preferred solution ? ? ?
Bending them as you mentioned ?
How about a 5" commercial abutment hinge?
The steel is 3/16" thick.
Sure you can do it, but bending that is getting
a little extreme. Installers have been flat shimming
and selective shimming for decades.
I am not sure bending is universally acceptable.

--Doozer
 
If the door moves on its own, its not installed plumb.
Bending the hinges is just a bad-aid.
Step up your installation techniques.
 
If the door moves on its own, its not installed plumb.
Bending the hinges is just a bad-aid.
Step up your installation techniques.

The Earth moves, the wind blows, and it even rains. Wood moves over the dark ages during membership in the PM ...:codger:
 
Well, silly me, I used to oil hinges.



I don't know what a metral hinge is.

In any case....the professionals here in Houston*, when faced with a door that doesn't stay where you put it, remove one or more of the hinge pins. Then they place the pin(s) in a position where they can bonk it with a hammer, so it is no longer as straight as it was prior to the bonking. They then reintroduce the hinge pin unto its hole and tap it in place using, most often, the same hammer.

This adds some resistance to the hinge and causes the door to stay where you told it to stay.
 
Buildings move about. Especially as some of you Kalifornians know ...

I'm not an expert in door hanging but I've done a few. A lot better than my house builder. Such as open a door and let go. the door keeps moving half way in under 5 sec. What a joke.

The frame hinge and door hinge mate with a pin. For an outside door I noticed that the hinge parts where not aligned. I mean the cylinder portion is not in line with
the flat mounted section. This being a door with three hinge sections which is normal for what I have seen for residential and most industrial/businesses.

I removed a few hinges that did not look in alignment. Clamp the flat part of the hinge, then gently strike the cylinder section either way. I was able to bring the height of my door up by 1/8 inch. By striking out the bottom hinge. I might probably tap each hinge cylinder a little to move the door horizontally by a little too.
Perfect alignment. Method can be done without removing the door because only one hinge is done at a time. Is this adjustment typical?

The earthquake fault lines are at 90 degrees to this door frame and that is the way it is...

You doo know there is a woodhacking section ?
:nutter:

Or better yet, please move on to:
1. bobvilla.com
2. ThisOldhouse.com
 








 
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