My Cutter is stuck in the milling head

I have a Steinel SV4 and the cutter is stuck in the milling head. This has a rod up to the top which pulls the compression fit up into the milling head. I must have got it too tight as it will not come out. I am looking for ideas????

Anyone??

Jerry

if it has a drawbar (threaded rod) that tightens the collet just thread it back in and give it a whack on the head. hope this helps, tom

As our friend said, screw the drawbar back in untill it stops then unscrew about 2-3 turns then wack it bwith a big hammer.
Dont hit it with a copper or rawhide mallet, you've got to give it a shock.
And don't give up, keep trying and good luck

Do you know what type collet it takes? The r-8's come out very easy with a little "thump" with a brass hammer. I have a B&S #9 collets on my index machine, and sometimes you have to beat it like it owes you money to get those collets loose.

Beat it with a BFH, she'll come loose...

If you have a nice tight, ball or roller bearing spindle mill.. AVOID using B&S and Morse taper collets with end mills..

They require a lot of pressure to release, and don't grip that well.

They were the state of the art spindle tapers in the old days, when plain bearing ruled the roost. The plain bearings had a LOT more contact area for pounding tapers loose. The straight taper spindles slowly faded out, after ball and roller bearings/carbide tooling came along. Some types of machines stuck with the Morse tapers a bit too long..

The Bridgeport M Head used a special drawbar nut that allowed you to remove tooling by turning drawbar in reverse, and it pushed out tooling with no stress on bearings... Some other machines had that feature also.

The R8 tooling requires a fraction of the force of a straight Morse taper to release...

Use end mill holders when possible..

Drill chuck for drills. ER Collet chucks work OK too, if you have enough headroom...

Those spindle SPECIAL ball bearings sets are $300.00 and up, and DO NOT like being pounded on... You WILL Brinnel/damage them, beating on them with a hammer..

To get a tool unstuck, you should make a tool to support bottom of spindle (not the quill) before pounding on drawbar. Even this will not prevent some amount of damage to the bearings, but it will reduce damage some...

I have a morse taper mill at my house. My trick is to tighten the draw par with two fingers. that's all, you cant over tighten it with 2 fingers.

Never ever tork down a morse taper with a draw bar. it is the wrong thing to do. You can set yourself up for a sledge hammer adventure.

Steinel: stuck cutter head

I had the same problem on my Steinel and whacked the drawer bar too hard, stripping the threads on the drawer bar. Had to make a new on our of drill rod. Now I use a straight rod as a knockout after first unscrewing and removing the drawer bar.

With a morse taper spindle always remove the tooling rigt after you stopped working with it
If the spindle cools down you get a shrink fit on the tooling
The better the fit of the spindle and tooling the greater the risk
Hauser jig borers were famous for that

peter from Holland