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My power feed on my knee mill keeps unscrewing itself. Help?

cmjohnson

Hot Rolled
Joined
Jan 22, 2009
Location
Central Florida
For reasons I admit I just don't know, I'm having a problem with my knee mill's X axis trying to unscrew itself every time I either use the power feed or even turn the handle manually. This happens whenever I am turning the X axis screw clockwise as seen from the right side of the mill.

Of course what's happening is that the screw assembly is just unscrewing itself from the threaded retaining nut.

Look at this photo and you'll see the black nut I'm talking about. Not sure what it's called.

AL-500PX-Bevel-Gear.jpg


I know that it's not supposed to do that but every time I advance the X axis in the leftward direction, the whole lead screw assembly attempts to screw itself right out of that nut.

So what's going on here? What part(s) am I missing and/or have installed incorrectly that would cause this?

I have on many occasions considered a brute force approach, drilling and tapping the locking ring for a set screw and using that to clamp down hard on the brass threads underneath, but that's so crude.

I'm also having a little bit of an issue (possibly related) with determining the proper spacer thickness required to set up the lead screw properly between the left and right handle assemblies.

The lead screw in this mill is not factory original. In fact this mill has ball screws. It's a Sharp YC 1 1/2VA which I retrofitted with a QC30 spindle. (Possibly making it the only QC30 equipped mill of this model in the world, for all I know.) It just took two parts and one modification to make a Bridgeport Boss QC30 spindle fit and run in this mill. That was easy. Getting the X axis to try to NOT unscrew itself when I use it, now that's been a challenge!


I'd THINK that the correct way to set this up would be to add spacers as needed so that the shoulders of the lead screw matches to the shoulder spacing between the bearings in both end plates. But with the power feed, that's a little less clear.
 
On my knee feed that black nut is just for holding the dial tight( nothing to do with power transmission) The crank handle drive collar gets pinned to the shaft after you set the gear mesh with shims. You have to drill the cross hole through the drive collar and the shaft by hand.
I would think your setup is similar


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Thanks for the help. When I got this mill it was already set up like it is now. There's no cross pin anywhere in the power feed system so I think someone elected to skip that step for whatever reason.

I need to order up some shim assortments and try to get this thing sorted out.

Another oddity is that there is a mismatch between the ball screws and the indicator dials. One's metric, the other's standard, and since I know that this is the case, I ignore the marks and just trust my DRO. I've been doing that for so long that I can't remember if it's the dials that are metric or of it's the ball screws that are metric. Doesn't matter. The DRO is good.

Maybe I should get dials that match. Just a thought.

I'm also going to have to rebuild/repair the power feed yet again. Mechanically it's a bit flaky and likes to get mechanically out of sync with the motor controller.
 
For reasons I admit I just don't know, I'm having a problem with my knee mill's X axis trying to unscrew itself every time I either use the power feed or even turn the handle manually. This happens whenever I am turning the X axis screw clockwise as seen from the right side of the mill.

Of course what's happening is that the screw assembly is just unscrewing itself from the threaded retaining nut.

Look at this photo and you'll see the black nut I'm talking about. Not sure what it's called.

AL-500PX-Bevel-Gear.jpg

Is there a key in there, between the brass gear and the shaft? That key is supposed to carry the torque, not the black ring knob.
 
I totally missed the keyway in the pic, makes sense since the handwheel uses a key, easier than drilling for a pin :)


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I totally missed the keyway in the pic, makes sense since the handwheel uses a key, easier than drilling for a pin :)

Ahh. I have one of those, and it's now set up as a free-floating feather key, so the key cannot slither out and onto the floor unless the brass drive gear is first slid off. The adapter associated with this has a steel shaft fitting into a drive socket. This assembly is cross-drilled and contains a length of 0.125" diameter brass rod which is trapped by the assembly that surrounds that sleeve, being a tight slip fit. The brass rod acts as a mechanical fuse, shearing if something blocks the table, preventing motion.
 
Yeah, there's no cross pin in this assembly. Whomever first installed it (long before the mill became mine)elected to skip that step, apparently.

So I guess I'll be doing that. And shimming the assembly correctly as well. Might as well pick up some hand wheels that match the pitch of the ball screws while I'm at it.
 
Yeah, there's no cross pin in this assembly. Whomever first installed it (long before the mill became mine)elected to skip that step, apparently.

Yeah, mine came with key and cross-pin, but still screwed up. I basically had to re-install the power feed.

So I guess I'll be doing that. And shimming the assembly correctly as well. Might as well pick up some hand wheels that match the pitch of the ball screws while I'm at it.

I had to shim as well. I made brass shim washers to exact thickness on a lathe, so the shim fit perfectly and could not fall out.
 
Is your screw on backwards? That or for some reason your screws isnt properly captured on the left hand side maybe. I would recommend calling and talking to Barry about this, he could describe it easier over the phone. 800-285-5271

Jon
H&W Machine Repair
 








 
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