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My Shop, Moonlight Machine

Joined
Nov 19, 2007
Location
marysville ohio
I will be posting photos of my projects on this thread from time to time as well as general shop news, rants and raves. The first project I'm posting is a 3" ball valve I make once in a while. This goes on the pit wall fuel tank used to refuel Indy Cars. It is spring loaded closed, when the car comes in for re fueling the valve is held open. If there is a problem the valve maan just lets go the handle and the valve as well as the tank vent will close. I was surprised to get an order for 2 as I already have made about 40 in the last 12 years.



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Pretty!!! I am curious about the spring but don't see it. Is it a clock spring like that used to hold the quill up in a manual mill head?
 
Pretty!!! I am curious about the spring but don't see it. Is it a clock spring like that used to hold the quill up in a manual mill head?

Yes it is, I guess I did not post it but I did take a photo. It is in the round bit sticking out the side. The closed and wide open stops are in there as well. The wide open stop is adjustable with an allen wrench if you remove the little plug on the side of the spring box.
 
No photo this time. Ever do something to a tool that you really did not want to do? I needed a .825 hex 5C collet for a hot job. I had a brand new 7/8 Lyndex hex collet. I cut 6 pieces of .025 shim stock .437 x 1.0 and bent the end .2 90 degrees. then I put the collet in a collet block and clamped the stock and shims in place, then tack welded the shims in place on the face of the collet! The lash up worked great for 100 parts, it got the job done but it sure is ugly.
 
No photo this time. Ever do something to a tool that you really did not want to do? I needed a .825 hex 5C collet for a hot job. I had a brand new 7/8 Lyndex hex collet. I cut 6 pieces of .025 shim stock .437 x 1.0 and bent the end .2 90 degrees. then I put the collet in a collet block and clamped the stock and shims in place, then tack welded the shims in place on the face of the collet! The lash up worked great for 100 parts, it got the job done but it sure is ugly.

Ugly doesn't matter.....getting the job finished does!
 
Nice! Can you describe your process for fixturing and machining the ball?

Cut the blanks, 35.37 long. Face them to 35.25 Finnish length, center drill them with a #6 center drill, drill and tap both ends 3/8 16 and turn the long straight end to 3.8" dia. using the LeBlond servo shift Regal engine lathe holding the part in the 3 jaw chuck and steady rest. Then on to the Miltronics, soft jaws to hold the 3.8" dia. Live center in the tail stock. I cut up a 80* diamond insert tool and welded it to a 1" sq. 7" long piece of 4130 with the insert straight on center. I used an Aloris DA tool post to hold the shop made insert tool. Programming on the Miltronics was done with finger cam. I checked the program with a wood 4x4 before running the aluminum parts.
 
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