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Thread: My Way Grinder

  1. #21
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    Default Way grinder

    4GSR
    Using the 4 inch wheels which were 32A40 seemed to do aabout the best for cutting and not loading up. I normally use 32A46 when I grind internal tapers in spindles.
    As far as cleaning up, get a wet or dry shop vac, remove the filter and get a extra long hose (swimming pool cleaning). Get a little paint brush and about a 4 inch wand on the end of the hose.
    Now here is the important part. Put the wet or dry sweaper outside and down wind from anything that is important. Turn her on and clean away. It will take the dust into the hose and outside. Never to be seen in your shop again.. Then the next time you try something like this, hook up the sweaper with the long hose and dangle it over the work area and position it near the wheel where the sparks will be sucked into the hose. It wont get it all but it will get a bunch of it. The grinding I did in Hawaii was mostly on a horizontal plane. I used a wide wand on the hose and placed it right at the end of the stroke of the grinder. The longer the hose is, the better the sweaper sounds. If it were 300 feet away, it would sound even better.
    I used this method (the sweaper) when I was finishing the hardwood floors here in the office. After every coat of varnish, we lightly sanded and then ran the sweaper over the floor with the tank setting in the front yard.

    I like what you did, I like what you built, I like the results.....

    Now then, How many times did you say, "You dummy it can't work that way"? Then change it and go on......
    Regards Walt...

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  3. #22
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    Walt,

    I like your idea with the shop vac. I have two vaccumn hoses for the "money pit" pool I have and a old shop vac that will work perfect for that.

    Thanks for the advice and nice remarks!

    Ken

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    Quote Originally Posted by John Welden View Post
    I'm not trying to be mean, but is the lathe really more accurate after this grinding operation or just shinny?
    I wondered about that too, but then read this:

    The fixture is guided up and down the ways by ball bearings that ride on the very top of the vee's and two bearing in front that ride on the front side of the harden vee way, and last a set of spring loaded bearings that ride on the inside edge of the front bed wing to keep it pulled against the bed while traveling up and down the ways. The reason I picked these surfaces is the had no wear and they are ground as part of the original "alignment system" of the lathe.
    Makes sense to me...

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    Quote Originally Posted by John Welden View Post
    I'm not trying to be mean, but is the lathe really more accurate after this grinding operation or just shinny?
    Let me add more to this, the finish left is not perfect as the original OEM finish. But at least the ways are reasonably straight now without a .015-.020" worn dip in the ways for the first three feet in front of the chuck!

    The grind finish left is OK for what I want it for, little ripple effect in places, but after a couple of years of use, nobody's going to notice. The little ripple, probably .000050" deep, be great for oil retention.

    Ken

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    i started down this road once, all the way to making some actual grinding passes. (I turned back and stripped the machine apart and sent the bed off to be done) I couldnt live with leaving a portion un ground, nor with picking up on the same surface if I moved the wheel over. (mostly cause i have ZERO grinding experience and learning on my own lathe was prooving difficult and nerve racking )

    anyway... it strikes now me that buying some linear bearings or such and making a temporarily attachable and finely adjustable (screws, shims) set of ways, which you could very carefully level... and then use the sled approach on the new straight ways which are long enough to grind your entire bed in one shot would be the ticket.

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    I'd be happy with it! It can't be worse than the 15-20 thou of original wear and I bet it's not even a tenth of that now.

    Just one question - why did the grinder unload at the tailstock end of the ways? Was that something you did deliberately?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter. View Post
    Just one question - why did the grinder unload at the tailstock end of the ways? Was that something you did deliberately?
    Peter,

    My first attempt at blending in the last 11-12" of way surface at the tailstock end resulted in me going slightly deeper than the freshly ground surface toward the headstock end. So after doing all of the other ways, I went back and retouched the way surface in the video to blend in with the tailstock end. As shown in the video, I was almost finished touching up the way when I taped it. Thay is why it droped off at the tailstock end, before it got to the end of the bed. All of the blends from all four way surfaces are within a thousandth or two-which is close enough for me! I highly doubt the carriage will see it when traverse over it.

    Ken

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    4GSR is that a thread roller in your avatar? Looks like the ones we've been building for NOV lately.

  12. #29
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    Default My Way Grinder

    4 GSR,
    I ended up using cam follower bearings to control the rout of the grinding wheel. I made up two rollers on this side (positive) and one roller spring loaded on the other (negative) side. They formed a triangle and the cam follower bearings followed the positive side of things and made he grinding head travel in a straight line. The spring loaded roller just held tension on the two rollers to keep things straight.

    Mine was a learning experience from the first day to the last day on the job. The last day on the job I learned to wear my seat belt when driving through the City of Hilo.

    Of course they advised not to wear your seat belt when driving on the dirt road on the way to the sumitt of Mona Kea. If you run off the road, bail out and let the car go..... I didn't learn to bail out, they only told me what to do......
    Regards Walt...

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    drew,

    I sent you a PM.

    Ken

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    Are you going to scrape the ways?

    Craig

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    Quote Originally Posted by craigS View Post
    Are you going to scrape the ways?

    Craig
    My carbide Sandvic scraper just "slides" over the rock hard surface.

    I may try to "stone" the surface with a good flat hone with some paint thinner for cutting fluid.

    One thing L & S did, they did a excellent job with carburizing the replacable ways on this lathe!

    Like knawing on a piece of Rex 95!

    Ken

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    Excellent thread everyone,
    I've been trying to plan how to make a small accurate "watch makers lathe". maybe railway line or similar for the bed.
    the surface grinder at work isn't long enough. but we have a long lathe, this is a great solution, lot of work, but its all for fun anyway.
    cheers,

  17. #34
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    Just a little update. I'm still working on the L & S when I get a chance. The Oilfield has been too good for me! And busy! And no let up anytime soon! I have the carriage on the bed with the apron bolted up and working on getting the right engagement with the rack pinion gear. Looks like around .035" to .040" I have to build up the vee's on the saddle. Lets see, I have a choice of Micarta, which I have on hand, Rulon or Turcite, or will it be Molglas?

    The picture is showing my method of aligning the tailstock to the headstock. Within .004" high/.000 side to side. Close enough for now! Ken
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails dscn1411.jpg  

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    Quote Originally Posted by 4GSR View Post
    Just a little update. I'm still working on the L & S when I get a chance. The Oilfield has been too good for me! And busy! And no let up anytime soon! I have the carriage on the bed with the apron bolted up and working on getting the right engagement with the rack pinion gear. Looks like around .035" to .040" I have to build up the vee's on the saddle. Lets see, I have a choice of Micarta, which I have on hand, Rulon or Turcite, or will it be Molglas?

    The picture is showing my method of aligning the tailstock to the headstock. Within .004" high/.000 side to side. Close enough for now! Ken
    Have you checked that the headstock is sitting true on the bedways first ? Regards Tyrone.

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    I must of missed this thread in 2011. Kudos!!! Nice way to think outside the box!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tyrone Shoelaces View Post
    Have you checked that the headstock is sitting true on the bedways first ? Regards Tyrone.
    Tyrone,

    At this point in time, I assume that the headstock is running parallel in both directions within factory specifications. As far as I can tell, the headstock has never been removed from the bed or tampered with. I do have plans making a test bar for checking alignment with. Just haven't got there yet! Ken

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    Get a Cleanstream filter for the vacuum. They are made of Goretex and catch very fine dust. They are available for Shop Vac and Craftsman (Red Stripe). I have them in my Shop Vac and larger Craftsman vacs. I wouldn't ever go back to regular filters. Best of all - they are washable and re-useable.

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  23. #39
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    Here is another sled type on youtube...

    RETÍFICA DO BARRAMENTO DE TORNO : PARTE 2 - - YouTube

    And I will throw this one in here as well..

    Look at the amount of heat they would be putting into the bed on this planer grinder.. it would be bending like a banana..

    RECTIFICADO DE BANCADA DE TORNO EN CEPILLO DE MESA - YouTube

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    Thanks for sharing RC99.

    My setup was MUCH NICER!!!


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