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Need carbide end mill .250 diameter with .035 by 45 degree corner break

RJT

Titanium
Joined
Aug 24, 2006
Location
greensboro,northcarolina
4 flute . Basically has a .180 flat and .035 by 45 degree chamfer. Can't wait 2 -3 weeks for a special to be made. Anyone know of something like this in stock somewhere? Trying to avoid using 2 tools, I have 1,000 parts to mill. It's a round part that has a shape like a Weldon flat .190 wide flat and a 45 degree chamfer on both sides , .025 deep.
 
I ran across these the other day while looking for something else. Maybe something like this would work? I think all of their sizes are too wide for your slot.

Weldon Flat Tools

Edit: Or try a tapered endmill. This is obviously an overpriced MSC chinese tool, but you get the idea. Tapered endmills are pretty common.
45 Degree Taper Angle per Side, 1/8 Inch Tip 4153813 - MSC

I have a vendor near me that specializes in tapered endmills. I just looked through their catalog and they have a 45 deg, solid carbide 3 flute endmill with a 1/2'' shank. The tip diameter is 1/8'', but they could probably cut it back for you to .180'' if you wanted. Might take a couple days. PM me if you think that would work and I'll give you their info.
 
I know I'll get my head bitten off for this - but .....................

A few minutes with a diamond hand lap will give you that corner break.
 
RJT,

Let us know if this is a repeat job. We can make the .035 chamfer size and keep in stock for you. We would just add it to the website. so you can order it online when you need it.
 
I'm going to sound like an old crotchety man.. But...

That is something you should be able to grind yourself.

"I spent the first 46 months of my apprenticeship grinding HSS blahblahblah" BS!!

Off the shelf is fantastic, and my preferred way.. But it doesn't always work out that way.
Emergencies, quick turn arounds, ran out of off the shelf tools, off the shelf tool is just
too much money to put into the job etc...

Good way to re-purpose an otherwise useless endmill that has some busted corners...

Grinding rads and chams on endmills is a pain in the ass at first, but with practice, you
get good at it, and its a skill that'll save your bacon quite a few times in the future.
 
Yes, not too hard puting on a corner chamfer yourself. But how about putting on the Tialn coating yourself? This person needs to make 1,000pcs. So your going to need to grind 2 or 3 endmills yourself by hand and make sure all of them are very close in size. I don't know how much your time is worth but these endmills are $11.81 each. Tialn coated and all features ground in one operation so all 4 flutes cut right.
 
Yes, not too hard puting on a corner chamfer yourself. But how about putting on the Tialn coating yourself?

I'd do that just like they do to the "Titanium" drill bits at lowes and Horrible Freight.. But instead
of gold spray paint, I'd use a purple magic marker.

I have a question for you, since I know you know your "stuff"... Where on the endmill do you actually need the
slippery stuff? Where is it most important? Isn't the greatest heat and pressure just behind the cutting edge on
the inside of the flute?? "in theory" the outside of the endmill should NEVER even contact the metal being cut, though
in reality if there is any deformation of metal at the cut, the outside of the endmill would rub a bit just behind
the cutting edge, climbing of course, the outside of the endmill would take a beating in a conventional cut.


This person needs to make 1,000pcs. So your going to need to grind 2 or 3 endmills yourself by hand and make sure all of them are very close in size. I don't know how much your time is worth but these endmills are $11.81 each. Tialn coated and all features ground in one operation so all 4 flutes cut right.

I did say my preferred method is off the shelf.. And I probably couldn't even
buy a good package of dark purple (plum?) magic markers for $12. Back in the old
times I didn't even know you could buy endmills with radius's and chamfers, I always
made my own. Now I keep stock of .015,.030,.060,.090 and .120 rads in house.
 
The coating should be on any surface that contacts the material that is being cut. The coating does many things. Reduces friction, heat, puts more heat into the chip, etc. I am sure I oversimplified it. I am not aware of any company stocking such a selection of corner radiused and corner chamfer endmills like us.
 
The coating should be on any surface that contacts the material that is being cut. The coating does many things. Reduces friction, heat, puts more heat into the chip, etc. I am sure I oversimplified it. I am not aware of any company stocking such a selection of corner radiused and corner chamfer endmills like us.

Doesn't the coating TiAln, or AlTin get hard also? And you use a softer carbide under the coating than
you would with an uncoated tool if I remember correctly..

And I don't think anybody else has some of your stuff either.. I'm a big fan of the double ended chamfer tools
and the slightly reduced shank endmills... And the double ended variflutes.
 
RJT,

Let us know if this is a repeat job. We can make the .035 chamfer size and keep in stock for you. We would just add it to the website. so you can order it online when you need it.

Thank you for having an awesome company and one that knows it's 2017 and not 1995. Many companies still want me to call have have to talk to a dealer. :crazy::rolleyes5:

Maritool = excellent products, great prices and amazing customer service.
 
Frank
No need to make a special, the standard will work fine. But thanks for the offer. We get oddball stuff in all the time, what kind of lead times would you have if I needed a specific size radius or chamfer on the edge of a standard cutter?
 
I have had Frank add corner radiuses to some of his reduced shank end mills in the past, took about a week extra without trying to expedite anything. I also did not have them recoated so I'm sure it would have taken a little bit longer if I had. On that note, I wish there were some cr options in the reduced shank end mills that I tend to use frequently.
 
In most cases I really really try hard to just have a new cutter made from scratch. Adding a corner radius, angle, to an existing cutter will NEVER cut as good as if it was made from scratch in one clamping. In most cases 1-2 weeks.
 








 
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