What's new
What's new

Need to choose a dial indicator

Lathe Dog

Plastic
Joined
Mar 23, 2010
Location
Montreal, QC, Canada
Hi all,

I recently purchased my first mill so I'm in the process of purchasing all the basic equipment I'm going to need to operate it.
Right now I need to choose a dial indicator so I can align the mill but I'm stuck between 2 options. I can buy either a Starrett .001" indicator or a Starrett .0001" indicator. They're both the same price.
Now my question would be, is a .0001" precision necessary for the purpose? I've seen veteran machinists just use a .001" dial indicator for the job so I'm not quite sure.

Thanks in advance for the feedback! :)
 
Either a 0.01mm (0.0004") or 0.0005" would be my choice...

Either a Starrett, Tesa or Mitutoyo would be my choice... Buying an indicator second hand can be a bit of a turkey shoot.... You may get a good one or an abused one..
 
For aligning a mill, are you sure you want a dial indicator, or a dial test indicator?

Dial indicator actually measures linear distance, very useful sometimes, but not my preference for aligning a mill. A dial test indictor doesn't actually measure the linear distance, it is used for comparative measurements, if you are unfamiliar with these, some popular brands are Intrepid, Compac, B&S, and of course, Mitutoyo and Starrett have similar models.

I'd recommend 0.001" graduations on a dial indicator (as a general use device) and 0.0005" graduations on a dial test indictor for mill alignment. I personally have a Mitutoyo that has to be reversed manually(and is 0.001" graduated). I prefer the B&S style besttest test indicator, as it automatically reverses direction.


0.0001" graduations are too fine for a lot of general machining operations, IMHO, but of course it depends on what you are doing.
 
There are 2 things I use indicators for on my mill, and they call for 2 completely different indicators.

The first is aligning the vice to the table ways. For that I use a DTI, or dial test indicator. It's graduated to .0005", but I suppose one can "read" tenths by seeing about how far in-between the markings the needle is. At the end of the day if I'm within .001" across 6" of travel that's good enough for mill work. The DTI is real handy for this task, as I can sneak the DTI tip into a lot more places than I can the plunger of a regular dial indicator.

The other use for an indicator on my mill (no DRO) is for measuring X-axis travel to an exact spot, for repeatability when cutting stopped gear teeth, e.g. Easier to watch the dial right at the work then have to hike around to look at the handwheel dial. For this I use a 1" travel dial indicator, and tenths are overkill so within a thousandth or two is fine. I DON'T use the DTI for this, as my aging eyes and brain need to have a little lead time to disengage the feed at the right spot, and the .030" range on the DTI with maybe 5 IPM feed rate isn't nearly enough lead time.

HTH, and regards.

Mike
 
I prefer the Interapid indicator, large 1.5 dia face, .0005 graduations,, If your a newbie with an indicator, getting one with .0001 increments will be extremely frustrating for you, it's just not necessary.. Also do yourself a HUGE favor and get a vertical style.. I see so many guys in a cnc machine with a damn mirror just to see the face. Get one you can read from where your standing when you swing to the other side of the workpiece!!! I cannot stress this enough.
 
I prefer the Interapid indicator, large 1.5 dia face, .0005 graduations,, If your a newbie with an indicator, getting one with .0001 increments will be extremely frustrating for you, it's just not necessary.. Also do yourself a HUGE favor and get a vertical style.. I see so many guys in a cnc machine with a damn mirror just to see the face. Get one you can read from where your standing when you swing to the other side of the workpiece!!! I cannot stress this enough.

What he said.
 
Great! Thanks for the help guys, I'll be going with the .001" dial TEST indicator (thanks for that clarification) or looking for a .0005"!

Oh yeah and I was referring to the dial test indicator and aligning the mill to the vise (which I am also purchasing at the moment :willy_nilly:), sorry for my lack of specificity, I am new to this whole thing, I don't talk "machinist" quite yet! :D
 
I think for you as a novice, get a middle of the road DTI in .001 or.0005"

Reason: you may Bang! it by accident and the expensive ones would really Hurt!

I like the Interapid too. .0001. $200 +

Get your feet on the ground, before you buy the very best.

Just my opinion.

When you start making money you'll want tools which will, after measuring, give you parts you can sell with out fear. :)

Regards,

Stan-
 
I have 8 DTIs in my box. .001, .0001, and .00005 (50 millionths).
Mits, Interapid, and B&S.

I don't think I have touched the .001 ones for at least 8 years, maybe more. Looking back they were a waste of money.

All depends upon what range you work in, for my stuff +-.003 is a wide open tolerance but my parts are small enough to hold in your hand.
I have friends working with 80,000 lb blocks of steel and they do just fine with a .001 indicator aligning 8 foot long parts on the machine
.
It's hard to have too much resolution. .008 total travel is plenty for me.
Bob
 
I think you'll find that it's much easier to move the vice around and align it to the mill, then it is to move the mill around, and align it to the vice :D.

FG

Wait ...

That guy that sold the gantry crane to me was pulling my leg?!


(By the way, I'm here to learn, too.)
 
Last edited:
Maybe I missed something, but I parsed the statement "aligning a mill" to mean a whole set of possible things, none of which would consider moving the milling machine. I was thinking: tramming the head, tramming the vise, tilting the head to a particular angle and checking with a DTI against a sine bar or precision gage, etc, etc...

Maybe I'm just not thinking "smartass" today. :willy_nilly:
 
Whatever you do, do not get one of the indicators sold by ENCO under the Fowler brand. The picture is a dead ringer for an Interrapid, so I thought maybe they made a huge purchase for Interrapids with the priviso that they not dilute the brand name. I probably deserved the POS I got. A friend who repairs them looked into it and said that it is so poorly made that there is nothing that can be done to make it work right. I waited too long to claim warranty, so I am just out the money.

Personally, I am an Interrapid fan, although there are other good brands. Once again, it is a get what you pay for market. I also agree about the vertical style, having had both over the years.

Bill
 
Ignore these guys. They mean well but they so far are not answering your question.

Everyone has to learn starting from basics. You're a noob like we all were when we started. You're a new guy to the trade and you need to walk before you can fly. There is a good posibility you will damage your indicator so get one that either repairable or easily replacible. This will not be the last indicator you will buy. There are several types and many ranges and graduations. Each type has its uses and each range and graduation its convenience depending on the scale and accuracy desired.

Get the 0.001" indicator for now. If you need closer than that you can "interpolate" between the graduations. Generally the most convenient indcator for a noob on a mill or a lathe is a dial test indicator (DTI). It's more compact and has a smaller range but on a smaller machine tool it is the handy choice. I suggest a DTI something like this using the Starrett version:

http://www.google.com/products/cata...log_result&ct=result&resnum=4&ved=0CCcQ8wIwAw#

It doesn't help that the picture is of a 0.0001 graduated DTI and the text refers to a 0.001" unit. Confusing. This DTI costs around $200. There are several excellent but less expensive versions of this Starrett offering on the market.

The classic indicator for general use by beginning machinist is the Starrett #196 back plunger indicator set shown here:

http://www.starrett.com/download/563_promo_10_3_rev_p7.pdf

I still have mine bought in 1962. But it is expensive. There are several similar sets at lesser cost if you care to shop for them. A set like this has the advantage of a number of attachments, clamps and accessories all in a kit. It is sensitive to shock because of a jewel that runs on a spiral in its movement. Use a soft hammer to bump the work while the indicator is in contact with it and the shock may break the jewel rendering the unit useless until its repaired.

As for Metric or Imperial (inches), that choice depends on the units you prefer to work in. It makes no difference which because one system can be converted to the other to any degree of precision you desire with a single keystoke of a basic scientific calculator. All that said I suggest you work in the units in which your machine's micrometer dials are gratuated. Working back and forth is a PITA.

Finally, Google "Long Island Indicator". Their website has a wealth of precision tool tutorials and general information along with more specific guidance on DTI and dial indicator selection.

Shop wisely. Bear in mind as you gain experience, you will develop your own opinions which may differ from ours and with good reason.
 
Most any brand will work just fine, but if you want the best you can get, you want an Interapid. It's undisputedly the best test indicator of its kind.

Bestest = Good enough
Starret = Was good 30 years ago.
B&S = Decent, but why would you buy one?
Mitutoyo = Meh...
Interapid = Perfect Swiss masterpiece.

You want to go with the Swiss when it comes to anything with a dial and little hands that move around. They've been doing it for a while now...

McMaster-Carr part number
2047A72

*Notice McMaster actually lists the brand of the indicator, something they don't usually do. They do when they get a million calls from guys asking if it's an Interapid or not.
 








 
Back
Top