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Need help with 1" Brown & Sharpe #9 arbor

ezduzit

Hot Rolled
Joined
Jun 27, 2013
Location
Marina del Rey, California
For my new Suburban fly cutter I require a 1" arbor to fit my Index Super 55 mill, which has a B&S #9 spindle. Though I can readily buy a 1-1/4" B&S 9 arbor, I only managed to find and purchase a used 1" B&S 9 arbor, but it has a tang instead of a draw-bar thread. What would be the simplest way to modify the arbor to make it safe to use?

I thought of cutting off a precise amount of the tang and welding on a 1/2-13 nut, which I could then carefully dress down so it would not interfere with the tapered shank. Perhaps that might distort the taper enough that it would require regrinding? Or perhaps it would be possible to anneal the shank so I could tap it, and then have it re-hardened, but I've never attempted anything like that and feel ill prepared.

Though I am 75-years old, I have only begun learning machining a few years ago. So I appreciate any advice you guys could provide. All comments welcome.
 
I have successfully removed the tang and threaded a B&S #9 arbor a few times.

Once I did it without annealing. It was a bitch, my old/dull taps complained, but it worked and was/is functional.

Another time I annealed the tang first. Drilling and tapping for the drawbar went much smoother. It worked and was/is functional.

I'd probably anneal again in the future but I do have some (minor) concern that the heating to anneal the tang may have compromised the run-out of the tapered section. Not because of any observations, just because I imagine the dull red heat must have moved the metal some.

A non-issue for the kind of work I do on my mill but if you have any concern about holding run-out tolerance I might recommend checking run-out when you're done and address the taper as-needed.
 
For my new Suburban fly cutter I require a 1" arbor to fit my Index Super 55 mill, which has a B&S #9 spindle. Though I can readily buy a 1-1/4" B&S 9 arbor, I only managed to find and purchase a used 1" B&S 9 arbor, but it has a tang instead of a draw-bar thread. What would be the simplest way to modify the arbor to make it safe to use?

I thought of cutting off a precise amount of the tang and welding on a 1/2-13 nut, which I could then carefully dress down so it would not interfere with the tapered shank. Perhaps that might distort the taper enough that it would require regrinding? Or perhaps it would be possible to anneal the shank so I could tap it, and then have it re-hardened, but I've never attempted anything like that and feel ill prepared.

Though I am 75-years old, I have only begun learning machining a few years ago. So I appreciate any advice you guys could provide. All comments welcome.

I'd be amazed if it was through-hardened. If you cut the tang off I'd expect you to be able to drill/tap it without dramas. That's been my experience in doing that to case-hardened Morse 3 shanks anyway.

PDW
 
How about making a 1/8 wall sleeve 1 to 1-1/4 ? Quick dirty done.

Not sure to whom you are referring but, in my case, the arbor must fit a 1" hole in the fly cutter. So there is only one way for me to get there...with a 1" arbor. Of course the fly cutter could be modified, I suppose, to accept a larger arbor. But that would only take care of this one shortcoming and leave me to face the next 1" arbor requirement.
 








 
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