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Need help changing oil/filter on older Kellogg air compressor

RJ614

Plastic
Joined
Aug 8, 2020
Hi all, I have a Kellogg-American 15hp air compressor from the late 70's/early 80's. I can't find a diagram for it on the ol' web, and all of my local shops won't service it since it's "too old". so I have been advised to basically run it til it dies, and buy a new one. But it works pretty great, so I want to keep it going as long as I can. I know this is gonna sound like a total doofus question, but I need help finding the oil drain plug, and filler plug(and air filter location, if possible). Please see the attached images; can any of you maybe locate those two? I'm guessing the cylindrical brass piece is the filler plug, and one of the lower plugs is the drain plug. Thanks for the help!
 

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The lower extended nipple is the drain. The upper item is a pressure relief valve. The filler port can be anywhere on the crankcase at or above the level of the sight glass. It should be a simple pipe plug, probably with a square head. If you could provide a photo showing the entire pump from the side with the oil sight glass it would be helpful.
 
filler plug is often perpendicular to the crankshaft. Look on the outer edge of the pump, on the far side of the motor. The plug needs to be accessible so you can pour the oil in.


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Any chance you can find someone better qualified to do an oil change? In first pic the pipe sticking out is your drain, remove the cap, not the pipe. I could be wrong, but pretty sure there is no filter for oil, the air filter is on the intake if you can figure out where that is, there might be 2 of them if that is a 3 cyl compressor (you can count cylinders?). There should be a fill port on upper part of the CRANKCASE, the brass part in second pic is a pressure relief on top of the cylinder, you need to look lower for a fill port. Use 30wt NON detergent oil.
 
Thanks all! I assumed the lower nipple is my drain location, but wanted to make sure. Sorry those photos got rotated in the upload process. I added a photo of the front of the unit; the upper portion with the pressure relief valve is hard to get to, due to the location of the unit.

I can't outsource the oil change, as no techs in my area will service it.

I'm a mechanically inclined guy, I just have no experience with commercial air compressors.
 

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The fill port is possibly the 'silver' colored part, right side on the top shoulder of the crankcase. Can't see it too well and the sides are in shadow. If there is no hex socket on that silver part, try pulling it out. It could be a simple plug with o-rings.
 
Kellogg American air compressors are in my opinion one of the best reception air compressors built and will a little care will run an unbelievable amount of hours.
That said, there no longer made in the USA, and replacement compressors are built over seas. The drain is the pipe nipple with the cap in the bottom center of your compressor pump.
The fill inlet is on the rear right side if the compressor, your only going to fill the crankcase half way up in the view window as seen on the rear of the compressor.
Use a good brand of 30 Wt NON detergent motor oil. DO NOT use a multi grade oil. If it's used out doors and the ambient temp is below 32 degrees pm me for other oil choices.
For parts I use Air Compressor Equipment Phone 252-291-6528
 
If it was me after I drained the oil I would add a street elbow to the drain nipple. I actually added a ballvalve on my lathe because it was so awkward to get a drain pan in back there. I can shove a hose onto the nipple out of the valve then open the valve and drain into a pan on the floor. I kept a cap on that nipple, just in case.
I have a few old bread tins that I use to catch the oil on machines. Cheap at a yard sale since no one bakes their own bread anymore. Also handy to live under the lathe to catch hot chips.
Bil lD
 
Use a good brand of 30 Wt NON detergent motor oil. DO NOT use a multi grade oil.

Why do you say not to use multi weight oil? Or do you mean multi weight MOTOR oil? I wouldn't use any kind of MOTOR oil, it's not designed for air compressors.

I would use Amsoil compressor oil in that pump. Second choice would be a less expensive brand of COMPRESSOR oil. Also if it hasn't been changed in awhile, and had non detergent in it, I'd remove the side cover and clean out the bottom of the crankcase thoroughly before putting in the new Amsoil synthetic. The value of good preventative maintenance is most times never fully appreciated, especially when it prevents problems from happening.
 
You are best to get a proper compressor oil specced for reciprocating compressors.......do not use any kind of car engine oil at all......especially not multigrade......they all contain some 30% of additives with zero lubricating properties.......Alternatively ,use a good grade of something like a DTE oil ,or a R&O hydraulic oil,depending on temperature......And do check and clean the intake filter ,or if paper element, change .......excessive suction in the intake will pull oil into the air ,and also cut efficiency markedly........and no car oil.
 
I note what looks like a oil sight glass near the drain pipe......but the level doesnt seem very high,well actually what I mean is ,there doesnt seem to be much oil volume in the crankcase.......the level will depend on if its splash or pressure big end ,splash is somewhat more critical as to level.....If its not splash ,you dont want the crank agitating the oil unnecessarily,it will just foam and heat the oil.
 
.And do check and clean the intake filter ,or if paper element, change .......excessive suction in the intake will pull oil into the air ,and also cut efficiency markedly........and no car oil.

I've bought several used compressors over the years that I believe the seller was convinced were completely worn out. Except the air filter elements were completely clogged full. I'm glad some people are ignorant in this way.
 
Why do you say not to use multi weight oil? Or do you mean multi weight MOTOR oil? I wouldn't use any kind of MOTOR oil, it's not designed for air compressors.

I would use Amsoil compressor oil in that pump. Second choice would be a less expensive brand of COMPRESSOR oil. Also if it hasn't been changed in awhile, and had non detergent in it, I'd remove the side cover and clean out the bottom of the crankcase thoroughly before putting in the new Amsoil synthetic. The value of good preventative maintenance is most times never fully appreciated, especially when it prevents problems from happening.

I will try to keep this simple for you, there is a lot of thought on the difference between motor oil and compressor oil from origin to pour point or ingredients to viscosity index, but the key difference is the presence of DETERGENT, examples being i.e,
Calcium, Sulphonate, Barium and Magnesium solonates as well as Alklphenolater in engine oil and it's absence in compressor oil.
30Wt,NON DETERGENT ENGINE OIL is relative in viscosity to ISO 100 such as Chevron Regal R&O 100 or Mobil DTE both and have a mid point Kinematic viscosity of around 100mm 2/S. The Kellogg American calls out for a operation temp of 55-120 degrees and a SSU of 490-600, with a pour point of around 20 and a carbon residue of less then 15% max. Early NON DETERGENT engine oil is just that EARLY you would never use it in a modern engine because it LACKS detergent, and the products that would promote valve issues in a air compressor. And yes you could use a good brand of Synthetic compressor oil that meets the Kellogg requirements.
 
Thanks folks! Ordered the proper oil. I will attempt an oil change and air filter change this week.
 
I have an old Kellogg 5hp, just keeps chugging along. Wondering if anyone has has success reducing noise with bigger or more sophisticated air filters?

We have installed commercial canister air filters on them but they really don't make them much quieter.
Being a 2 stage compressor there by nature a little on the noisy side. The plus is there a low RPM pump.
It will run forever, just keep it full of oil.
 
ok, got the oil changed today, and will swap the air filter. took 6 quarts! she should be good to go for a while! thanks for the help folks!
 








 
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