Need help choosing a lathe, new to machining.

Hello this will be my very first post on this website! I'm looking at getting a lathe and maybe a mill later on to support my hobby of working on old vehicles and machinery. A lot of parts for my projects are no longer in production and/or are hard to find. I recently got the idea maybe I should get a small hobby machine shop going so I could produce replicas of some of these parts and make modifications where I see fit. I've been reading up and watching some Youtube videos and came across this site along the way. I have a good bit of mechanical and electronic experience under my belt but have only watched machine tools be used. I was hoping you guys could point me in the right direction for a good starter lathe.

My main requirements will probably be determined by the material I'm likely to work with the most, cast iron, tool steel(not yet hardened) and medium carbon steel alloys. I'm a little worried the lathes I'm running into on craigslist will not be able to handle these materials, but I really have only a rough idea what I'm doing so maybe they can. Since I will be working with mostly metals on the harder end of the scale I would like to have a machine that can accept carbide tooling. The number one thing I'm looking for in a lathe is accuracy and repeatability, what I do not care as much about is work rate or capacity since most things I'll be making will be under 2" dia. and less then 6" in length and will be one offs not for profit. Grey cast iron is probably the single most common metal I will be turning, medium carbon alloy the second, M class tool steel the third, 6061 aluminum the fourth and manganese bronze the fifth, titanium will be on the menu as well if even possible but definitely not required.

The lathes I've seen again and again on craigslist are the Craftsman Atlas series and the Southbend 10L Heavy and 13" swing lathes. Both look appealing since they seem reasonably heavy and I could easily fit them into my garage. Others available now are the LeBlonde regal that looks very beat up, a Mysore Kirloskar, an ancient Logan in my home town with a ton of tooling included but no quick change gearbox and square ways. One I missed out on was a good condition Bradford but it was a little large for my garage, it had a 16" swing. On thing I have noticed is the larger lathes seem to be spindle speed rpm handicapped, for example it looks like the Leblonde can only turn up to 750rpm. Most of my projects will be fine work I have no ideas if that would be and issue or not.

If anybody can point me in the right direction it would be greatly appreciated, I feel a little in over my head right now. I have a good idea about how machine tools work but know nothing about all the standards and intricacies that come with each individual machine.

Go find a cheap, well used and worn lathe (but in working condition!), preferably in your neighborhood. I should think a hundred dollars would do the trick.
Forget about precision and frills. Start with simple things, find a mentor, get some experience.
Then find a better machine and scrap the old one (or keep it for not very demanding jobs). That way you will not be very sorry to lose your initial investment.
Just my 25 øre (0.25 DKR),
Regards and good luck! fusker

Craigs is ok. And a lighter lathe would be great to learn on. You can always keep it for the smaller jobs. A South Bend would be ok for smaller stuff and grow with. To me, buy the best one you can afford and work up.

What comes to mind are those "on the larger side" Emco Mair lathes, I have seen people be successful with those. I have seen a few locals go the 3 in one route, and end up doing nothing.

Due north of you - a real lathe for not much - might be worth a look

Antique Hendey Lathe - tools - by owner - sale

Tons of info on this make on this forum - like this

http://pounceatron.dreamhosters.com/docs/hendey/1920-Hendey-manual.pdf



Here is what Patrick did to one

Hendey 14 by 6 Tie-Bar Rehab

have fun

Oh boy that Hendey does seem to be quite the machine. Not terribly big either, which is nice for sure. My only hesitation is the spindle housing seems a bit light, but I wouldn't know. Scrolled through the manual you linked and it seems to have some features that would be extremely convenient, like the automatic carriage stop for thread cutting. I'll think about it but not sure I want to put much effort into restoring something.

Thank you everyone else for your replies as well, slowly leaning toward a southbend 10 just for sake of parts availability. They seem to be a bit better lathe than an atlas as well. I guess if I could sum up what I'm looking for it would be quick change gear box, high spindle speed, good at fine work, power cross feed, small foot print and parts availability. I've heard leblond and monarchs are good machines, but does this apply to their smaller stuff as well

Just after posting my last reply I did find a Monarch 14x48 might jump on this one. Any thoughts?

Lathe - tools - by owner - sale

I always struggle with the advice given to a novice to choose a fixer upper lathe. Having gone through this same exercise, one has to take into the fact that there is a boot strap process for a fixer upper. You need some tools in order to fix the lathe. But if you've got nothing, it is really hard to get started. I tend towards recommending at least an operational lathe so one can get to work on day one.

You said you wanted to work material under 2", and another machine had a 750 rpm you thought was slow. The nice old Monarch on CL is probably abit slower on the RPMs.
It is nice the spin up the speed on smaller diameters, and having the ability to work the pre-hard materials is a plus "in my opinion", also metric threads could be important for future projects.
I would say to look at machines available, try to figure how much to spend, and sit like a vulture on a fence, machines are not moving very well, in a the next months there is bound to be some good machine deals.

Love my Emco S11, they can be hard to find tho...

Emco Maximat Super 11 Lathe

What sorta budget did you have in mind?

Terry and donnie anything under $2,000 dollars especially if it comes with a lot of tooling, and is in pretty good shape. I already have the metrology equipment required for working on engines, calipers, mics from 0 to 6 inch, dial gauges, dial bore gauges, precision straight edges, feeler gauges ect. Despite this I have no idea how to check out a lathe once I actually get to see it in person. I suppose a precision level is in order, Drcoelho what should I look for once I get to see it in person?

That CL Monarch for $1250 I think is worth a good look! From the photo, it looks good in some key areas.... The first lathe is the hardest to find, after that, they can pile up on you.
Often a nice gear head Monarch, and a Southbend bench or, the heavy ten, can cover wide ground.

The Emco like Terry has, are awesome machines, I have always wanted one.

MadPoncho said:

Terry and donnie anything under $2,000 dollars especially if it comes with a lot of tooling, and is in pretty good shape.

Click to expand...

Near as dammit impossible.

Pennsylvania and surrounds, five or more years ago, that figure might have gotten you:

- around a 10" to 12" inch swing Logan, Rockwell, the "semi-industrial" end of the Clausings, A decent South Bend might run another $500 to $1,000 on "belovedness factor". You might get a 3-J, a 4-J, and only "maybe" also a collet system, such as 3C or 5C.

One thing you will probably NEED is longer between-centers work envelope than the typical mere 20 inches of the "super precision" toolroom / tool & gage "grand old" 10EE and similar. They do NOT actually make very good choices for all around repair work where even a 24" shaft or such won't easily FIT. 30" clear is a more pragmatic minimum, 40" close to golden.

But every one of those "hobby-popular" easy-to-move lightweights have gone scarce in decent condition, a long time ago, and the prices have kept on going up, even as "project" lathes in need of a LOT of "TLC".

- a "medium" duty industrial engine lathe. LeBlond Regal or any of several older, even VERY old, but probably with only one chuck, if even any at all.

Aged. Worn. Modest top RPM. But....probably still able to do decent work, and work HARD, even with a lot of wear. But you'll need to learn how to work around their wear.

- a 14" x 30' or 14" X 40" "Taiwanese Generic" geared-head, in not the best or condition. Not "great", as lathes go, but far better fitted than the mainland PRC copies and FAR less money than a South-Korean Webb/Wacheon. Lots of these are what rather a lot of shops HAVE. They get the job done.

Regardless, at that budget, you'll have to scout a collet system on yer own, and probably at least one chuck.

Want better choices in better condition?

So does EVERYONE else! So scarce goods are being chased with more money.

You need closer to $4,000 to $6,000 and still need a goodly ration of PBS. AKA "Pure Bullshit LUCK!" to find good CONDITION. And then there is transport..

How much value in a decent used car would $2,000 get you, PRESENT DAY.. not 10 or 20 years ago, or not because someone retired or died and left you lucky .... or the shop a mile down the road just went tit's up and you got there FAST?

$2,000 budget, tooling included? Might be a year of scouting? Maybe three?

Meanwhile... where are prices heading?

Might want to set the whole tooling issue aside? By definition, it is swappable. So you can start with a rather grotty 4-J chuck and add other types and BETTER ones so long as the machine itself is "relatively" sound.

Try for a "common" spindle nose mount, too. D1, L, A, my order of preference.

IF threaded? A common one with easy sourcing of inexpensive store-bought backplates. ISTR 2 1/4"-8 fits BOTH some of the 10" SB AND Logans, and...??

2CW

Our resident drama-queen, Walla Walla's Whining Wild Turkey, will now drive headfirst into a dry swimming pool... just to show us he is not a quitter at his profession. "wound collecting" the headspace mechanics call it.

Good example of what to avoid, yah prefer a "real" life.


ignore button works.

"Near as dammit impossible."

Listen up troll, you must of just slipped on the Monarach for 1250, you are a lying troll after all!
Here it is Mr Rooster Fish, you are done, you need to use one of your other fake IDs, the thermite, has a big hole in his bucket, but its still full of shit, under stand troll!
thermite, the bully is toast! Try Monarchist again, and get your lying ass back on the short buss forums.

donie said:

"Near as dammit impossible."

Listen up troll, you must of just slipped on the Monarach for 1250, you are a lying troll after all!
Here it is Mr Rooster Fish, you are done, you need to use one of your other fake IDs, the thermite, has a big hole in his bucket, but its still full of shit, under stand troll!

Click to expand...

Oy! Psychopathic idiota..



For the adults in the room...

First of two 10EE was close-on TEN years ago, damaged, cost more to go-fetch from Durham, North Carolina than I paid for it. "ISTR" somewhere around $1175 for the machine, around $1,300 for the go-fetch, loading, Diesel fuel, truck and rented FL for unloading.

Came with not so much as a toolpost nor even a single cheap Chicom dead center with it.

Well-tooled NOW.. But the tooling took YEARS to gather and totals around ten times what the machine cost! That ratio is over the mark. But .. is shared with a SECOND 10EE, so not so bad after all.

Tooling-up costing 2 to 4 times the cost of a machine-tool is more common.

Ask any SANE member - "drama queens" do not count, obviously - about tooling costs vs acquisition costs for any "elderly" lathe or mill.

High-production, modern CNC with a far higher acquisition cost are no slouch at consuming tooling budget, EITHER. All part of the cost of doing business with them.

Meanwhile...

Hope yer poor Mum is still OK, even if you are F****d Up Beyond All Recognition as even a semi-utilitarian Cluster F**k to use for "bad example" safety training purposes?

OT, Covid acronym to keep you safe.

Thread: OT, Covid acronym to keep you safe.
by donie
My mother died of it, so some can make fun of that. Its getting boring for the most nasty!

Click to expand...

Does it it get any sicker for the "bored most nasty" Son than the lie you are COVID-orphaned, your brand of infantile attention-bid "wound collecting"?

Probably!

For-sure you will be proud to SHOW us yet-another round to add to your mountain of sad s**t lies to prove just HOW f**ked-up, you are, too!

More's the pity... PM does NOT actually have a blue-ribbon nor a silver trophy cup to award for "most long-running mentally f**ked-up member".

Sure as hell you'd earn it. And retire it. Beyond challenge from any possibly more f**ked-up competition!

"Everybody has to be good at SOMETHING!"



Drivel onward! We can't seem to avoid your sick compulsions, can we?

I have been here for 8 years longer then you, I am a professional, I know all your lies and fake history. You are a troll, and a viscous one at that, You have threatened me with assault, but you are just mildew.
You have never worked in a machine shop in 1959 running Niles lathe making spring cuts cutting screw threads, you never were a stock boy working for .88 an hour.
You are a troll.

Cant stop editing troll, you are breaking down again.

donie said:

I have been here for 8 years longer then you, I am a professional, I know all your lies and fake history.

Click to expand...

Professional liar who invents fake history is all you are!

No one posted the proof of it but YOUR OWN SELF! Over, and over, and OVER AGAIN!

Not even able to keep your lies in ORDER, one fictional episode to the next!

Big Twin Engine & Electric morphed from world-famous Hawg shop to hydraulics - "retroactively" yet, once REAL 2-wheeler motor professionals called you out as a damned fake?

Wait until the PM community tries to find any evidence of your "20 years" of hydraulics expertise anywhere but in your sick dreams and grubby elder diapers.

Meanwhile, yah crazy dipshit, I have the damned deposit records and even a few COMPANY PAY STUBS!

It was really all I gave a s**t about.

Never could buy food with lies, knew that in advance. Never wasted a nano-second of time trying to do.

I liked it when your piss artist friend Goldstein called me a phony Harley mechanic, when I am a Factory Trained and Certified Technician.
You are a punk amateur troll that has never worked an honest day in your life, you can not produce one photo or witness in your behalf.
Lying fake machinist, as verified by other members, Now, lets make fun of me surviving cancer again, Mr Rooster Fish!
My favorite is the locals, are going to assault me, and I will need pins and screws to hold my bones together.

donie said:

I liked it when your piss artist friend Goldstein called me a phony Harley mechanic, when I am a Factory Trained and Certified Technician.
You are a punk amateur troll that has never worked an honest day in your life, you can not produce one photo or witness in your behalf.
Lying fake machinist, as verified by other members, Now, lets make fun of me surviving cancer again, Mr Rooster Fish!
My favorite is the locals, are going to assault me, and I will need pins and screws to hold my bones together.

Click to expand...

Keep digging your hole deeper, your own most-repeated lies as your shovel.

Eventually you may get deep enough to lose the internet link and leave we still-healthy grownups to our business in peace and quiet.

Rooster Fish, your idea of the PM community is about a dozen people at best, and all amateurs' at that, You know who is not going to stop me, because you are acting as a censor with you non stop meaningless post.
This site was founded to prevent you, or a terrible Harold, on the other site, from drowning out others, or censoring.
You can not, say I am not a Pro, just look at the great equipment I have and use, and the invisible pile of shit you are rumored to have, oh well.
You have nothing to show, just a drunk nasty old man.

This is a lathe troll,

Lets see yours Mr Rooster Fish Bill thermite.