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martik777

Aluminum
Joined
Apr 10, 2011
Location
Vancouver, Canada
I have some DOM tubing pieces 6' long 1/2"x .065" wall thickness that I need to drill out to .378 and cut to 2". I can think of 2 options:

1. Cut it all into approx 2.030 lengths, drill, face, debur all pieces on on end as first batch then for the 2nd batch, flip, setup a spindle stop for 2", cutoff and debur.

or

2. Cut into 2" lengths, drill +2", debur, measure 2" with x-axis DRO, cut off as first batch then debur all as a 2nd batch

I'm leaning towards #1 as it will be more accurate and maybe faster with a spindle stop. (Will bandsaw with a stop so maybe 20 seconds per cut) Need tolerance of .005"
 
How many? It’s always fastest to to 1 thing at a time to each part.
So, saw them into blanks.
Face one end to clean up, hit the OD corner with a file as the chuck winds down
Face the other end to length, hit the corner with a file.
Drill(or ream) the ID.
Chamfer the ID on a drill press or with a cordless drill.

But you don’t mention what you have to work with.
 
How many? It’s always fastest to to 1 thing at a time to each part.
So, saw them into blanks.
Face one end to clean up, hit the OD corner with a file as the chuck winds down
Face the other end to length, hit the corner with a file.
Drill(or ream) the ID.
Chamfer the ID on a drill press or with a cordless drill.

But you don’t mention what you have to work with.

Qty=200, Lathe ie: Spindle stop

If I face the other end to length against the spindle stop I won't be able to drill thru.

I'll probably use a collet and hand tighten for part 2 as it's faster than tightening the chuck each time.
 
You face them all to length off the stop. The last thing you do is drill thru. You don’t need a stop for that.
 
Take the stop out. You’re doing 2 things. Face to length and drill.
I said 1 thing at a time.
Face to length all pieces.
Remove stop. Drill all pieces.

Or do it however you want. I’d personally put the drill thru on the Bridgeport. My arm hurts thinking about cranking that that tailstock thru 200 parts.
 
Make up some form of stop, on the crosslide, on the opposite side of parting tool.
Lock carriage in place.
Wind out crosslide so stop is in place, advance tube to stop.
Advance crosslide to move stop out of the way, and ream tube using tailstock.
Use parting tool ground with a chamfer on headstock side of tool.
Now you have a piece cut to length, reamed to internal dimension with a chamfer on one end.
Several options to chamfer other end.
Bob
 
Last edited:
I'd first make a run of 200 using various methods, then I'd be in a position to tell you which way is best.
 
Make up some form of stop, on the crosslide, on the opposite side of parting tool.
Lock carriage in place.
Wind out crosslide so stop is in place, advance tube to stop.
Advance crosslide to move stop out of the way, and ream tube using tailstock.
Use parting tool ground with a chamfer on headstock side of tool.
Now you have a piece cut to length, reamed to internal dimension with a chamfer on one end.
Several options to chamfer other end.
Bob

Like Dis' ????

Might as well face off the cut, and chamfer both ends (on the O.D.), only need to 2nd op the internal chamfer on the left end.
 

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