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  1. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by thermite View Post
    ....I did the maths on heat in grammar school. Now all I have to do is glance and SWAG. Not worth any more effort....
    Of course you did, of course you do and of course not -

  2. #82
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    Eureka!! I Got It off. Made an internal clamp with almost zero clearance and an external clamp with near zero clearance, to hold spindle. Then applied a heavy duty impact wrench for 1 minuet straight. Nothing. So I used a 3/4 ratchet with a 4ft. cheater While the spindle was locked in place and it came right off. I had my OA torch ready and was waiting for help so I just gave it a big mighty tug and it came off. I checked everything and can find no damage. I ran the lathe and can detect no damage at all. I thank everyone here for the advice. Without the 2 clamps I don't know how I would have prevented the spindle turning without damaging something. Thank everyone so much, you will be hearing from me often. BILL

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  4. #83
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    Thanks for the follow up. I was wondering how things were going for you.

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    Thanks For the Advice. The oil thing is a bit confusing. Cutting oil: I think I will Pass. I Found myself lubing the lathe with it. I don't think it will hurt, in the short haul, but it is not the best thing to do. I will now start surfing the web for a four jaw chuck and a face plate. The spindle threads look GREAT,2&1/4{2.242 I Believe} by 8tpi. I like that spring loaded center, but I have A center that will do for now. I think the chuck and face plate should come first. As for collets, I don't have a clue. A rotary index is way down the list. I don't even know if I have the terminology correct at this time. I have a couple of tool bit holders they are square with vees cut in them & they work fine. In H.S. all we used was the lamp post type tool holder which I Don't have. I have learned to us the square ones, whatever they are called, and I see their advantage. Will I will sign off for now. Thanks a million and any and all advice is welcome. BILL

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    I like that. [A pilgrim only owns what he does hisself] True True !! I will remember that one.

  7. #86
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    More Questions. What Is the Chuck mount called, it is 2&1/4X8tpi, and what is the taper on the spindle. I researched and found different names for chuck mounts, is there a name for this one?? Things are going great for this beginner, I am learning every day thanks to everyone.BILL

  8. #87
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    Your mount is simply called a 'thread mount' or 'threaded mount'. It is identified by the 2 1/4 X 8 specification you noted. Your spindle taper is a 'short' or 'stub' MT5. Finding a center that fits properly is difficult, but you can buy a standard center and turn it down to suit. If you do that, I recommend an import center as I've not yet run into one of those that was too hard to turn down.

  9. #88
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    If I find a standard MT5 center could I just cut it short and approximately how much would I want sticking out?? Thank, BILL

  10. #89
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    Now I have another problem. Tools for my lathe. It came with an Aloris set of tool holders but I need the cutting bits. No trouble finding them on e-bay it is just that there is too many to choose from. Every size and shape, I don't know where to start. I have a 1 inch by 1/8 thick holder , I believe it is a cut off tool. It has one bit in one end and none in the end. There is a multitude of them in e-bay, but which bit to choose. Are these interchangeable? No one wants to be returning parts. The tool holders I have are 3/4 X 3/4 by almost 6" overall length. Where to Start?? Any advice?? Thanks BILL

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    The cutoff blades come in various heights, some are tapered from top to bottom, some are not. Some have carbide inserts bonded to the top outer edge and some are HSS. Most generic holders will accept most anything that is the correct height. You may need to shim the bottom edge of a tapered blade to keep it vertical.

    It seems your tool holders are a bit large for your lathe if you are referring to the slot dimensions but they will probably work.

  12. #91
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    My tool holders are 3/4 X 3/4, the aloris holders I have will hold them with a little room to spare. I believe the are 5/8. They wont' hold 1" My only 1" tool is the cut off tool. I have some carbide inserts for it, I guess they are just pushed in and tightened down. I have ordered an Aloris holder for the 1" cut off tool holder. They did not have all the demensions on line but it says 1" and looked right. Oh well I am learning. I believe you are right about 3/4 being a little big but they came with the lathe and have worked for what little I have done so far. I don't think it will hurt do you. I will soon need some carbide tips for the tool holders I have{ I guess they are carbide} Any tips on what I should look for, or beware of. Thanks again BILL

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    My mistake. My tool holders must be 7/8 because they will hold 3/4 but not 1"

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    The part about the holders being a bit 'big' only means that the entire assembly may take up more space than what is ideal. The quick-change tool posts are super most of the time, but they do get in the way often enough and in that case a big one is more in the way.

    Regarding cutting a dead center down to size, generally you'd want it as short as possible and still get the job done. When turning between centers you need a way to drive the dog, and your center needs to protrude far enough beyond your drive plate to hold the work (not far). If you don't have a drive plate or faceplate, you can drive a dog with a chuck jaw, but chucks are thick and the center then needs to stick out quite a bit further. Drive plates are pretty easy to make, since they are not necessarily a precision part. You just need to be able to cut internal threads to fit your spindle.

  15. #94
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    I can see where a lamp post type holder would have some advantage in taking up less space. I have already ran into that problem just practicing with the quick change. Trolling the net for a post type holder now. Once I get a center I will try making a face plate, there are plenty of different videos on line. I have not cut any internal threads yet, can't do that between centers anyway. I only have a 3 jaw chuck now, also trolling for a 4 jaw chuck. I never thought of a face plate as not having to be precise, therefor you are correct and it should not be too difficult to make one. I am learning something everyday. WHO SAYS YOU CAN'T TEACH AN OLD DOG NEW TRICKS.?? As always thanks a million BILL

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    Another Question. I want to make some studs for an old engine. I Believe they are #8 Hardness. What Steel Would I order. I have no idea how steel is rated or graded or whatever.

  17. #96
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    Bill, I need to clarify one point. A faceplate needs to be flat and true. A drive plate for dogs is much simpler, usually smaller, and doesn't need to be particularly flat or true. The majority of turning between centers in a small shop is relatively small diameter stock, and a drive plate of 6-8" diameter with a single slot for the dog-tail will cover almost everything. A second slot directly opposite the first is handy if you want to turn a double-start thread.

    The most easily obtained stock for making grade 8 bolts is another grade 8 bolt! Otherwise, most would probably recommend something like 4340 or 4340PH. If you really need grade 8 strength and you don't mind doing your own heat treating there are other alloys that will also work.

  18. #97
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    I used Cold rolled and cut them on my little atlas, they are holding but I didn't torque them very much. 3/8 fine and 3/8 course. My Sheldon lathe has a screw on chuck 2 1/4 8tpi. The hole at the chuck end is 1.618 as near as I can tell. I am sure it is tapered but about 4&3/8" in there appears to be a step or lip for the rest of thru hole. The finished taper portion goes in about 3, maybe 3&1/2 " I will have to measure that to marrow. I took off the taper attachment, it was too filthy to slide. It is clean now. It is missing one of the screws that held a taper part, I will try to make my own, I believe cold rolled will do for that, not much torque needed there.. Well I got to go. Thanks a million to every one. BTW, I am going to have the wife show me how to load pics. I will try to post what I make. Thanks. BILL

  19. #98
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    I am having trouble finding a short MT5. I believe you called it a stubby. Anyway it is a MT5 and it is short. The fine taper part is about 4" long and the ID at large end is 1.618", then at about 4&3/8" in there is a step or lip, what is that about?? Anyone have any idea where I can got one??? Thanks, you guys are great. Things are coming together. BILL

  20. #99
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    There is no step or lip. Unless you can get one from a Sheldon owner, you'll be way ahead modifying a standard center. One problem is that there is more than one type of 'stub' or 'short' MT5 and I am personally unaware of any specification that would ensure you get the correct part.In any case, the taper angle is the same regardless of the start and end diameters. Modding a commercial center is dead simple. You just seat it in your spindle, set your compound to the desired point angle and turn it down. The standard angle is 60 deg. included. Some Sheldon compounds are marked such that you'd set it to '60'. Others are more standard and would be set to '30'.

    You don't need super critical accuracy in the angle either. The working contact slope is so short that if you get it within a degree or two no one will be able to tell the difference.

    The easiest way to set it up is to run the lathe in reverse and cut on the 'back' side, thus avoiding cross slide travel issues and awkward working angles.

  21. #100
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    I don't know if you would call it a lip or step but it is there. The overall length of the thru hole is 16&1/4". Starting at the chuck end the finished taper is approx. 2&1/2" deep then is larger until approx. 4&3/8 deep where it reduces to approx. 1.400" and remains that size. The finished taper starts at 1.618" and it is a MT5. I Bought a MT5 center that is too big It doesn't go in to the "lip", it is that large. I don't know if the lip will effect a normal MT5 {if there is such a thing}. I was planning on turning it down and I may try But it seem to be made out of tough steel. I will Try though. Thanks again for all help and advice, I need it. BILL


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