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  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by specfab View Post
    If the bushings are 1" tall, that will likely be enough to get the drill lined up well. Regarding the chip clearance space, I think it to be unnecessary, based on the planned usage and materials involved. I would be more concerned about making sure the jig stays in place during drilling, and that the entire setup is stable enough to efficiently drill by hand. If I were forced into doing this work in the way you envision, I would want to be able to clamp the jig/workpiece to something for stability, or hold it all in a vise. I think it would be a mistake to think you can hold the jig and workpiece with one hand and drill with (only) the other hand. As noted above, a Harbor Freight cheapie drill press would actually do this job in an "OK" manner.
    I'll remove the pins for chip clearing from the design. I do plan to clamp the jig to the workpiece. I could take it one step further and clamp the workpiece to a set of sturdy saw horses, but the parts will be as long as 24 feet long, and I'm not setup to do that in my shop with my drill press or milling machine. I was kind-of hoping that the weight of the part would give some stability to help prevent movement.

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    If you are using a hand drill, I would recommend drilling a pilot hole around 3/32" or 1/8" to reduce the pressure required for the 1/2" drill. You could make a drop in drill bushing with a 1/2" OD and a 3/32" or 1/8" ID to get your pilot hole on center.

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  4. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by kenton View Post
    If you are using a hand drill, I would recommend drilling a pilot hole around 3/32" or 1/8" to reduce the pressure required for the 1/2" drill. You could make a drop in drill bushing with a 1/2" OD and a 3/32" or 1/8" ID to get your pilot hole on center.
    Thanks for the advice. I could make a drop in bushing no problem. What are your thoughts on using a spotting drill to drill the holes since they are more rigid? I know they're not meant for that, but given the material is .125" thick aluminum, and given the low production numbers I wonder if it would work and be an advantage. If so, I'd have to go up to 1/4" pilot hole as a quick search didn't yield any results for a long 1/8" spotting drill. OAL of material when drilling is 3" (workpiece 2", bushing 1").

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    Quote Originally Posted by kenton View Post
    This was noted in the original post.
    Are you:
    1. A Lawyer (criminal defense) ?
    2. Work for Black & decker ?

    Just because it's stated, doesn't mean it can be achieved.

    The $50 HF "Benchtop" drill press, I can lift with qty (1) hand.

    It can simply be modified by cutting down the column, rotating the
    quill to "work off the back".
    Thereby working much like a mag drill, only:
    1. cheaper (by about $850)
    2. Clamped in place, where the mag drill cannot.

  6. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by digger doug View Post
    Are you:
    1. A Lawyer (criminal defense) ?
    2. Work for Black & decker ?

    Just because it's stated, doesn't mean it can be achieved.

    The $50 HF "Benchtop" drill press, I can lift with qty (1) hand.

    It can simply be modified by cutting down the column, rotating the
    quill to "work off the back".
    Thereby working much like a mag drill, only:
    1. cheaper (by about $850)
    2. Clamped in place, where the mag drill cannot.
    This seems like a lot of work when you could use an 18 volt Milwaukee and be done before you could get checked out at HF. Plus then you don't have to store a single use modded HF drill press.

    Or I might just be full of piss and vinegar.

    It started off as wine, but time makes fools of us all.

  7. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by ccater1 View Post
    Thanks for the advice. I could make a drop in bushing no problem. What are your thoughts on using a spotting drill to drill the holes since they are more rigid? I know they're not meant for that, but given the material is .125" thick aluminum, and given the low production numbers I wonder if it would work and be an advantage. If so, I'd have to go up to 1/4" pilot hole as a quick search didn't yield any results for a long 1/8" spotting drill. OAL of material when drilling is 3" (workpiece 2", bushing 1").
    I would just go with a 1/8 drill, the drill bushing should keep it supported enough and the smaller pilot seems to help stabilize the larger drill. You probably wouldn't have any issues using a spot drill in that application. If you wanted you could make a couple sets of bushing and try both ways

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  9. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by kenton View Post
    I would just go with a 1/8 drill, the drill bushing should keep it supported enough and the smaller pilot seems to help stabilize the larger drill. You probably wouldn't have any issues using a spot drill in that application. If you wanted you could make a couple sets of bushing and try both ways
    Thanks for the help

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    The smaller pilot hole with drop-in bushings is a standard approach for jobs like this.

    Do use kerosene or some type of cutting fluid made for the white metals to avoid micro welding of chips to the drill. The ball tipped stand-offs for chip clearance are not needed for 1/8" material.

    1/8" aluminum doesn't present a lot of difficulty for drilling in low production numbers. I thin the web for center cutting in jobs like that with success and don't have to change drills/bushings.

    sg-esr_b1.jpg
    Last edited by AD Design; 08-15-2018 at 08:38 AM. Reason: Photo op

  11. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by AD Design View Post
    The smaller pilot hole with drop-in bushings is a standard approach for jobs like this.

    Do use kerosene or some type of cutting fluid made for the white metals to avoid micro welding of chips to the drill. The ball tipped stand-offs for chip clearance are not needed for 1/8" material.

    1/8" aluminum doesn't present a lot of difficulty for drilling in low production numbers. I thin the web for center cutting in jobs like that with success and don't have to change drills/bushings.

    sg-esr_b1.jpg
    Thanks for the advice! Much appreciated. Can I use wd40 instead of kerosene? I normally use wd when cutting aluminum, but that doesn't make it right lol... That's a really beefy looking drill in the picture.


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