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Need to loosen bandsaw blade after use?

Cannonmn

Stainless
Joined
Jun 25, 2016
One of our smaller bandsaws, think it was a 7 x 12, came with instructions to loosen the blade tension when saw is not in use. Is that related to fact that the saw came with a cheap blade that needs special care? A friend thinks the loosening requirement is BS. What are the facts here?
 
One of our smaller bandsaws, think it was a 7 x 12, came with instructions to loosen the blade tension when saw is not in use. Is that related to fact that the saw came with a cheap blade that needs special care? A friend thinks the loosening requirement is BS. What are the facts here?


:icon_bs: , its either yielding or not, I highly doubt creep is at play. Maybe the manufacturer is worried about the casting breaking if its bumped while under load....
 
I used to release tension on my bandsaws all the time, but no longer do. On the other hand, if I put another 1/16" or 1/8" blade on the Inca 710, I probably will release tension again.
 
To prevent indentation and unnecessary wear on the wheel tires that grip the blade

Neither of my industrial horizontal bandsaws have rubber tires on the wheels. I'm not sure if any industrial horizontals do. On the other hand the Doall vertical we had in the shop did have tires on the wheels. In both cases none of the manufacturers recommended removing the tension when not in use.
 
John Oder taught me that trick when I looked at saw at his place. It's a lot like flossing your teeth. It makes no difference in the short term - so why do it? So your teeth don't fall out later. On a rubber-tire saw it can ONLY help. On any saw, it can ONLY help to have less tension.

That said, on my cheap Rong Fu horizontal I never un-tension it as it doesn't do well with any changes. But otherwise...
 
Release mine when the blade snaps from fatigue. Carbide blade was nice and cut quick, but can only go around the wheels so many times. Had it re welded and it snapped right away. Flexed it and saw loads of stress cracks ready to travel. Dumpster time.
 
If you havent knocked all the teeth out before it breaks from fatigue, you arent using the saw enough. On the little 4x6 saws, we go thru bi-metal blades in a month or two, as we mostly cut stainless with em. On my bigger, 1" wide blade bandsaw, I may get 2 or 3 months out of a blade, but a blade is a consumable, and unless you are a hobby type who uses it an hour a month, doesnt seem worth the time to be constantly loosening and tightening it.
And if your saw is gonna break because you leave the blade on, it seems like they didnt build it tough enough.
 
Wood saws have rubber tires and are supposed to be released after every use so the tires do not get a flat spot. I never release my 14" wood saw. the tires wore out and threw off before they developed a flat spot. This took over 25 years and it was bought secondhand. It can go months between uses. The urethane tires should last longer then the 1970's technology synthetic rubber tires.
Bil lD
 
all our saws open the hydrolic valves to neutral when you shut machine off. It is supposed to relieve stress on the spindles and blades. None of ours run with flanges or rubber wheels, all are industrial saws. The s20 is the cute one of the bunch.
 
:icon_bs: , its either yielding or not, I highly doubt creep is at play. Maybe the manufacturer is worried about the casting breaking if its bumped while under load....
If steel crept we'd be discussing stuff far more important than bandsaw blades.

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The blade does not care.

I would say if the wheels have rubber tires, then release the tension. If they do not, then you don't need to.
 
If steel crept we'd be discussing stuff far more important than bandsaw blades.

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Creep is real. It usually happens when the stress is more than half the materials yield and can be a real problem at elevated temperatures. I've seen many parts replaced because of creep. A quick google search will yield some good results that are interesting reading if you're into engineering and metallurgy.
 
Creep is real. It usually happens when the stress is more than half the materials yield and can be a real problem at elevated temperatures. I've seen many parts replaced because of creep. A quick google search will yield some good results that are interesting reading if you're into engineering and metallurgy.
Agreed, but this generally doesn't happen to steel as i recall.

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Agreed, but this generally doesn't happen to steel as i recall.

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I am far from an expert on the topic but I have replaced large sections of main steam line due to destructive creep samples coming back bad. I believe it was SA335 P22 which is 2 1/4 chrome. This was years ago so the details of the job are slightly fuzzy. It was around 16" pipe that was over 2" thick so I doubt it would be replaced for no reason

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My experience with the awesome urethane tires has been awesome. Of course, after the shiny new-ness wore off I replaced them with old style rubber tires which work better and last longer.

My DoAll saw has rubber tires and is not a woodworking saw...or at least, it is rated for all sorts of materials including metals, wood, plastic, canvas, and bone.
 








 
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