New Gorton 9J mill
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  1. #1
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    Default New Gorton 9J mill

    Just picked up a Gorton 9J, Have a question, not sure if I should place question in Kearney Trecker, group or not, my mill is older than when Kearney Trecker purchased Gorton.

    Anyway, I am trying to remove the front pulley, have removed all above pulley hardware, notched nut, bolts, Draw bar etc. Cannot remove the pulley. I have the on-line docs and they are not much help.

    Has anyone removed this before? Next step is to try to lower the spindle and attempt to follow the procedures to remove the spindle.

    I do not want to force anything, Parts are long gone.

    Thanks

    Joe

    Some images:

    mill1.jpgmill2.jpg

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    You going to have to rig up a puller to pull that sheave. What ever you do, don't grab the edges where the vee belt groove is. You will break it! That sheave is cast iron!! Probably have to drill and tap at least two holes towards the inside where the splined shaft coming from the spindle is. But before doing this, remove the spindle quill from the housing. There may be some kind of nut or socket head cap screws that need to be removed from inside the housing to get the sheave off. In all the years my family had 9-J Gortons in the shop, I don't recall ever removing the sheaves. The spindle quill, I have had it out. Watch out for the big spring in the housing and the one on the quill return on the quill handle.
    You got a nice mill there if it hasn't been molested. Ken

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    Thanks Ken, I really just want to clean and remove the rust. Not sure if I want to take that much of a risk of breaking anything. I will have to ponder this a bit.

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    If the bearings feel smooth and not bumpy, I would leave it alone. Believe me, if you take it apart, it'll never be the same again on Gorton Mills. They were a nice high precision mill for its time. As far as I'm concerned, still are. Ken

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    Quote Originally Posted by 4GSR View Post
    If the bearings feel smooth and not bumpy, I would leave it alone. Believe me, if you take it apart, it'll never be the same again on Gorton Mills. They were a nice high precision mill for its time. As far as I'm concerned, still are. Ken
    Thanks Ken, no play in the spindle and smooth as a babies, you know what! ;-).

    Joe

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    Quote Originally Posted by 4GSR View Post
    They were a nice high precision mill for its time. As far as I'm concerned, still are. Ken
    I second that. I've only ever run one that was similar to the OP's, and I don't even see many of them around, although I see lots of older style Gorton mills and pantographs. I don't know why they weren't more popular, price maybe???
    To me, they have all the "feel" and sensitivity of a Bridgeport with the rigidity of a real milling machine. I hope to own one someday.

    Great find, and best of luck with your repairs.

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    Thanks Derek

    The cleaning and de-rusting has begun. I will post pics of the progress

    Joe

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    Default add images

    Some more pics
    mill3.jpg
    mill5.jpg
    mill4.jpg
    mill7.jpg
    mill8.jpg

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    More Imagesmill9.jpgmill10.jpg

    Also started YouTube Series of restore

    YouTube

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    I have a Gorton 9-J.
    If you need any help,
    let me know.

    -Doozer

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    Thanks Doozer, Have you found any schematics for the Cutler-Hammer electrics? I spoke with Richard Gorton and he has never seen any.

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    I do not have schematics, but my 2 speed motor and
    control box is intact. What I see from what I have,
    is the motor has 2 split and separate sets of windings.
    Treat them like 2 separate individual motors.
    If you do not want to run a VFD and keep contactors,
    I would buy a set of interlocking reversing contactors
    and wire them to power one or the other windings.
    You can get the contactors as a pair, mechanically
    interlocked, so as if one coil is energized, the other
    is physically prevented from pulling in, this saving
    the thing blowing itself up from having both coils
    mistakenly energized at once.
    You might just as well buy 2 sets of interlocking
    reversing contactors, and actually use one set for
    actually reversing the motor, as it never had (at least
    mine never had) actual reversing capability. Might be
    nice for power tapping.

    --Doozer

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    Two of the Gorton 9-J's we had, had a triple pole three-position toggle switch that you used to reverse the motor with. You switched it when the motor was not running. I cannot remember where in line this switch was placed. We pretty much made our own schematic by tracing back all of the wiring to each interlock and contactor and such. At one time, we had a blueprint schematic from Gorton on the 9-J. Don't remember where we found it, have no idea where it went to. The six-wire two speed motor were easy to wire up like you said by using a for-rev relay with an interlock. One of the 9-J's had a five wire hookup, where one of the wires shared T1 line with both speeds. That made it a little difficult to hook up to a for-rev relay. The last mill we had the two speed contactors went out on it. Replaced it with a for-rev contactor and just wired it up to the high speed and taped off the low speed wires and ran it like that for the rest of it's life. I guess wherever it is, it's still wired up like that. Ken

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    Thanks Doozer, I just purchased a VFD, the mill has a junction box and the person I purchased the mill from had a VFD as well. He wired the VFD directly to the junction box. I have not traced the wires as of yet. Is there anything special I have to do if running a VFD? The guy I purchased the mill from indicated the High speed motor use to work, but now when he attempts to select high speed, the mill shuts down. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

    Joe

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    Thanks 4GSR, my mill has 6 wires as well. The owner told me that the High speed use to work, but now, when selecting, the mill shuts down. He was running a VFD. I just purchased a VFD and will do some wire tracing before I wire it up. As with Doozer, any suggestion would be greatly appreciated.

    Joe

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    Default More Progress pics

    Here are some more progress pics, up to my ears in paint stripping and paint prepping:mill11.jpgmill12.jpgmill13.jpgmill14.jpgmill15.jpg

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    Here is the latest YouTube video of my progress:

    YouTube

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    I made a comment on your youtube channel about the burnt orange paint you're stripping off. More than likely it is lead based paint.
    Noticed the arbor in the spindle for holding the special Gorton collets. That does come out and leaves you with a No. 10 B & S taper in the spindle, if you are not already aware of it.
    Looking nice, Ken

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    Yes, Ken, I saw that, thanks. I was not aware of the spindle, that is really good info, I was worried that the special Gorton arbor would be too small for larger
    end mills, Do you know how to remove that spindle arbor?

    Thanks

    Joe

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    Here is Part 3 of Mill Restoration


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