What's new
What's new

1-1/2 12tpi Issues (Single Point Threading)

Homernukem

Plastic
Joined
Jan 2, 2018
I'm new to single point threading. I've made a few before, but I just kinda did whatever untill it fit. Now I'm making a Inch and a half, 12 thread. Male and Female.

The problem is I don't understand the geometry

1.5.12NutAndBolt.jpg

This is a CAD file I drew of my thread.

The OD and ID of both the Nut and Bolt make sense and align up like they should, but the threads are too wide. I set every measurement to what it says in the book. (30 machinery handbook).

I used the flat sizes for the major diameter on the nut and minor diameter on the bolt because that's what I have control over when I grind my cutting bit.

Does that make sense? When I'm cutting threads I'm cutting into the roots of the threads. The crests end up being how ever wide they end up. So that's how I drew my picture.

Please explain. I'm doing this for my work. I am the machinist department. (no formal training on it) I'm learning as much as I can. I've read a lot on these forums and youtube for my knowlege.
 
Don't worry about what your picture says. You probably screwed up somewhere.

Do you have a mating piece? Does it only have to work for that piece? Set your lathe to 12tpi and thread until it fits.

Are you trying to do it better? Then invest in a set of thread wires.


The calculations are:

Best wire size:
Code:
 .57735 x 1/pitch (find the closest size in the set to this and use it for further calculations not the calculated size)

Measurement over wires
Code:
= Pitch diamter (see online or Machinery's handbook) - .86603 x 1/pitch + 3x Best wire size(actual not calculated)

To calculate the other limit for pitch diameter just add or subtract the differences of the min/max from your previously calculated answer. No need to repeat the whole thing again.

Since you are making both pieces make the male first and to spec and thread the female to suit.
 
Well, the internal thread needs more clearance over the thread tips than your dimensions show. The male thread could be as large as 1.499" OD so the internal thread will need to be cut beyond that. A tap that size is about .012" oversize. It takes very little interference on the crests to cause problems with assembly so always make sure you've cut the internal one to a larger major diameter than its mate.

If your threading tool isn't ground and set properly, it will deflect a lot when cutting, and it won't be cutting to the expected major diameter if it is springing when entering or leaving the cut. Watch the bar deflection.
 
Cutting threads from scratch (without a mating thread) can be confusing. You do not have a mating thread so you must work to the proper measurements. But, what are the proper measurements and how do you verify them.

First, I would start with the male (outside) thread because it is the easiest to measure. Here are the steps I would take:

1. Grind the 60° tool with a 12.5% flat (1/8 H) at it's tip. This flat will cut the root of the male thread and the values (12.5%) are at the low limit. So this tool will still be valid as it wears. It is optional, but I like to round the edges of this flat as that reduces the stress at the sharp corners that a true flat would have. This is completely within the thread specs.

2. Machine the area to be threaded to the proper OD. This can be found in the tables in MH (Machinery Handbook) for your diameter. It is NOT the nominal OD. In your case it would be between 1.4981" and 1.4809".

3. Set your lathe for 12 TPI.

4. Calculate the depth of the thread (12 TPI). 1/12" x 0.75 = 0.0625" That is the straight in (perpendicular) depth, taking the root and crest flats into account (12.5% for each). If you are using the 29.5° in-feed angle on the compound, then you need to divide that by the cosine or that angle: 0.0625" / cos(29.5) = 0.0718" That is the in-feed at 29.5°

5. Make a few rough passes stopping a few thousandths short of the calculated in-feed. Watch the flats at the crests to be sure you don't go too deep. Use a brass wire brush or extra fine sandpaper to clean any burrs from the thread: this is important as you don't want to measure burrs.

6. Now you MUST measure the pitch diameter. The OD or Major Diameter and the Minor Diameter are of NO USE at this point. There are too many ways that they can be deceiving. There are two ways of measuring the pitch diameter: thread micrometer and three wire method. Thread micrometers are the easiest, but $$$$$. Thread wires are inexpensive and you can even make your own and do the math for the size of wire that you use. (Note 2)

7. Continue taking light cuts (your tool must be dead sharp) until you reach the proper pitch diameter. De-burr the thread (step 5) before each measurement.

8. Check the OD again and bring it back to the numbers from step 2 above if necessary.

That's it. That should produce a 1.5" - 12 TPI thread to specs. Please note that the diameter that counts is the Pitch Diameter. It and it only determines the fit between the male/outside threads and the female/internal threads. The OD or Major Diameter and the Minor Diameter have a broad range of acceptable values and CAN NOT be used to gauge the thread being cut. Neither of them will guarantee the proper Pitch Diameter or the proper fit.

For the female/internal thread you will need to gauge it. If you only need the two parts to assemble properly with each other, you can cut that thread until the previously cut male/external thread fits with enough clearance for assembly. If these parts must mate with others that are made elsewhere or at other times, then you will need to make GO and NO GO male gauges using the above procedure but with pitch diameters adjusted to the minimum and maximum values (OK, a few tenths inside of) of the female/internal thread specs for 1.5" - 12. These Pitch Diameter limits can also be found in MH. MH shows 1.4459" and 1.4584" but I would use something like 1.4469" and 1.4574" to allow for tolerances in making the gauges: that still allows an acceptable range of 0.0105" so hitting it when making the internal thread should not be very difficult.

Oh, and your internal threading tool would also be made with that same, 12.5% (1/8 H) flat at it's tip.

Note 1: Part of the reason why OD or Minor diameters can not be used for creating a thread is the difficulty of grinding those 12.5% (1/8 H) flats on the cutting tools. For a 12 TPI thread those flats would measure 0.0104" wide. I don't know about you, but I would be hard pressed to grind and measure that with a decent tolerance. I think a high quality optical comparator would be needed ($$$$$). In practice I would just ensure that it was at least that big and go with whatever actual size I wound up with: perhaps a +0.004" / -0.000" range. You MUST use the Pitch Diameter for accurate measurements.

Note 2: The three wire method has been described in detail many times. You can search this board or the internet in general for these descriptions.



I'm new to single point threading. I've made a few before, but I just kinda did whatever untill it fit. Now I'm making a Inch and a half, 12 thread. Male and Female.

The problem is I don't understand the geometry

View attachment 253469

This is a CAD file I drew of my thread.

The OD and ID of both the Nut and Bolt make sense and align up like they should, but the threads are too wide. I set every measurement to what it says in the book. (30 machinery handbook).

I used the flat sizes for the major diameter on the nut and minor diameter on the bolt because that's what I have control over when I grind my cutting bit.

Does that make sense? When I'm cutting threads I'm cutting into the roots of the threads. The crests end up being how ever wide they end up. So that's how I drew my picture.

Please explain. I'm doing this for my work. I am the machinist department. (no formal training on it) I'm learning as much as I can. I've read a lot on these forums and youtube for my knowlege.
 
A quick story that illustrates the difficulty of measuring a thread with the OD. I needed some longer carriage bolts for my router table. I measured the OD of the existing ones and it was just a few thousandths under the #14 OD size so I started to search for 14-20 carriage bolts. And quickly turned up absolutely NOTHING. But the little light bulb turned on in the back of my head. What about 1/4-20, a very common size. But could the OD measurement really be that far off?

Well, the existing bolts fit a 1/4-20 nut perfectly. And the hand nuts fit 1/4-20 bolts perfectly. YES, the OD measurement really could be that far off!

The OD measurement was off by more than a complete nominal size in my screw chart. You can not go by OD measure for screws. You just can't.
 
I find thread triangles a little easier to handle than wires. I cut appropriate lengths of rubber bands to tension them and keep them on the measured item. The published way uses little rubber pieces to keep them on a micrometer:

12890205.jpg

They have been discussed here before:

Thread Measuring Wires VS. Triangles
 
Oops. I totally forgot about the thread triangles. Thanks for adding them. They are another excellent and accurate way to measure the pitch diameter.



I find thread triangles a little easier to handle than wires. I cut appropriate lengths of rubber bands to tension them and keep them on the measured item. The published way uses little rubber pieces to keep them on a micrometer:

View attachment 253517

They have been discussed here before:

Thread Measuring Wires VS. Triangles
 
Ok Ill get a set of thread wires. They are only about $35 off amazon. Given all the errors I can add to a part I can see why I shouldn't thread anything more without them. Obviously taps and dies are the easiest and fastest, but for weird threads like this I need to get the proper technique down.

However, Why doesn't the geometry work out in CAD? (I'll e-mail the DWG file to anyone who wants it). There's no error from my tool making or machinery in CAD.
 
Part of me feels that the min/max dimensions are to the theoretical sharp edges and then the roots are truncated off where you drew it with the radii included in your measurements.

The pitch diameter (often called the effective diameter) of a parallel thread is the diameter of the imaginary co-axial cylinder which intersects the surface of the thread in such a manner that the intercept on a generator of the cylinder, between the points where it meets the opposite flanks of a thread groove, is equal to half the nominal pitch of the thread.

What happens if your follow the above? Does the PØ line up?
 
However, Why doesn't the geometry work out in CAD? (I'll e-mail the DWG file to anyone who wants it). There's no error from my tool making or machinery in CAD.
Looks to me that you have drawn the bolt major diameter to maximum size sort of assuming that thread crest is not flattened at all. What is your "reference" where you base all your bolt thread dimensions?

sorry, no drugs or CAD for me on my leisure time :D
 
Last edited:
...for weird threads like this I need to get the proper technique down...

Your 1-1/2 - 12 thread is not weird--it's a standard national fine thread. What are you making these parts for? Unless it's
a rocket ship or something similar you should just go and buy a 1-1/2 - 12 bolt and use it to fit up the female thread. Once
you have the female thread you can use it to fit up your male thread--quick and dirty but it's done.

Another tip is to use (if you can) thread topping inserts. As long as your starting OD is correct when the insert starts to cut
the OD you should have a perfect thread. Another advantage of using insert tooling is that you know your thread form is
perfect. You don't have to be off by much when hand grinding a tool to have an impact on how male and female threads
fit together. With so many options available there's no reason in this day and age to not use insert tools...
 
Looking at your drawing, what jumps out at me is the root fill. You seem to have it at 25% (1/4 H) AND then there is another line above that which would be at the 37.5% level. I assume that you copied those from the published drawings for specifying thread form.

What you need to understand about those published drawings is they are NOT intended as production drawings. They show the maximum, tolerable limits of the root fill: it CAN NOT EXCEED THAT LEVEL. You should not be shooting for that level of root fill. The reference drawings are probably done this way to allow production tools for making screws to have a WEAR factor. Those drawings show when that tooling is totally worn out and must be replaced. It shows the absolute limit, not a good practice place to shoot for. I know that they don't say that, but if you think about it, it is the only thing that makes any sense.

A drawing for producing a thread would be a lot better if it shows a much smaller root fill, like the 12.5% (1/8 H) that I mentioned in my previous post. If you make your tool to that size, then it can wear a lot before it reaches the absolute limit at the 25% point.

To me the ideal thread height to shoot for is 75% (3/4H) overall, with 12.5% (1/8H) flat at the crest and 12.5% (1/8H) root fill.

You don't say just what is wrong with the threads that you have cut other than they are "too wide". I am not sure exactly what that means; but I am guessing you mean that they are being cut too deep and the crests are becoming points instead of having flats. If that is so, another thing that I would emphasize is the need to deburr your freshly cut thread BEFORE making any measurements. Those nasty burrs will throw the measurements off by a good bit. Again I recommend a brass wire brush.



Ok Ill get a set of thread wires. They are only about $35 off amazon. Given all the errors I can add to a part I can see why I shouldn't thread anything more without them. Obviously taps and dies are the easiest and fastest, but for weird threads like this I need to get the proper technique down.

However, Why doesn't the geometry work out in CAD? (I'll e-mail the DWG file to anyone who wants it). There's no error from my tool making or machinery in CAD.
 
As noted above, you have to cut the thread to a PD tolerance. So you should be drawing it the same way.

Make the flanks tangent to a circle equal to the appropriate thread wire diameter and overall measurement. Or, as noted above, coincident with a line of half pitch length, at the PD (radius).

Both at MMC, male at max tol', female at min.

And then see how your root/crest clearances look.
 
I'm new to single point threading. I've made a few before, but I just kinda did whatever untill it fit. Now I'm making a Inch and a half, 12 thread. Male and Female.

The problem is I don't understand the geometry

View attachment 253469

This is a CAD file I drew of my thread.

The OD and ID of both the Nut and Bolt make sense and align up like they should, but the threads are too wide. I set every measurement to what it says in the book. (30 machinery handbook).

I used the flat sizes for the major diameter on the nut and minor diameter on the bolt because that's what I have control over when I grind my cutting bit.

Does that make sense? When I'm cutting threads I'm cutting into the roots of the threads. The crests end up being how ever wide they end up. So that's how I drew my picture.

Please explain. I'm doing this for my work. I am the machinist department. (no formal training on it) I'm learning as much as I can. I've read a lot on these forums and youtube for my knowlege.

Here's a couple of things that might help as you seem to be reinventing the wheel.

http://f-m-s.dk/1.09.pdf

1.5UNF.jpg

Quite a bit of information here too.

Screw thread types

Wires are popular but can't be used to measure internal threads.

There are other methods that can measure both external and internal :)
YouTube
 








 
Back
Top