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New to me Jones and shipman 1400/questions

jpevner

Stainless
Joined
Apr 5, 2005
Location
Central MA
Well, this followed me home today:
shipman

Unfortunately no manual accompanied it.It has power Z raise/lower and hydraulic x,y.

I had ti drain the fluid before transporting. Does anyone know what kind of hydraulic it takes??

Also, there are a couple of controls on the hydraulic box, and a knob inside the hydraulic box with the word purolator. Does this have some kind of filter I need to change??

It comes with an old walker electromagnetic chuck, but the top of the chuck casting has some holes in it. Does this affect anything??

regards,

Jon P.
 
Hydraulic oil is specified as Mobil Vacuoline 1405 for the tank and 1409 for manual oiling points. You won't kill it by putting in 10-15 gallons of cheap 46 weight hydraulic oil or thereabouts.

The handle on top of the hydraulic box has three settings:-
off: just provides luubrication for the ways.
on: X axis power feed
load: applies a pre-load to the Y axis (cross) feed leadscrew to remove any play when grinding up to a vertical edge.

The Purolator is a mesh based hydraulic filter. give the handle a turn or two to scrape it clean once in a while.

If the holes in the chuck expose the windings, life could get interesting. If they are just scenery, then just avoid them when placing a work piece that cold fall into them. It might not hurt to grind a thou off the top of the chuck once everything is settled in place.

Other bits:-

Note that the panel to the left of the cross feed handwheel opens to expose the adjuster for the automatic crossfeed. For some arcane reason, it is calibrated in units of 0.007". It is activated by turning the T shaped handle in the handwheel in the direction that you want to feed.

The four pointed star shaped handle that I can't see (should be at the 8 'o' clock position in the handwheel in your picture) clamps a worm wheel that sits on the periphery of the handwheel. this enables the fine adjuster screw above and to the right of the handwheel. The thread on mine is 5/16BSW, but if it's the same thread on yours, you will probably find that 5/16UNC fits ok.

Lefthand handle on the top switches between manual and powered feed. Interlocked with:-

Middle handle adjusts rate of power feed.

Right hand handle resets the power feed trip, that is actuated by stops on a rail below the table on the right hand side.

There should be a limit switch on the right side of the head that is probably operated by the bracket that the coolant pipe is attached to. This cuts out the vertical power feed. You may find that the linkage has got sticky and doesn't reset, if so just cut of the power, take the cover off, take it apart and give it a good clean and a light oil.

Hope that is of some help


Regards
Mark Rand
 
Mark;

Thank you very,very much for those insights. I have a couple more questions if you can.
"The Purolator is a mesh based hydraulic filter. give the handle a turn or two to scrape it clean once in a while."
So, just turning the handle back and forth cleans it?
" For some arcane reason, it is calibrated in units of 0.007".
Obviously!
"The thread on mine is 5/16BSW"
Ok, how old is this thing?

I see only one manual oiling point in back on the mechanism that transmits the y axis power, also two grease fittings, probably for bevel gears.

On the back to front traverse ways, ther are two grease fittings toward the back, and two lugged up holes in the front. It looks like these ways are greased, not oiled. Has somebody put in a goofy kludge? Where were the original oiling points?

Again,

many,many thanks!

regards,

Jon P.
 
Jon, can't really add to the excellent help that Mark has already given you, but keep checking on e-bay UK for a seller called fazerblazer.

He sells copies of Jones & Shipman operation, service, & spare part manuals at a reasonable cost. He has nothing on at the moment, but these are a regular item for him.

Peter
 
So, just turning the handle back and forth cleans it?
Specifically, turning it two or three turns in the direction indicated (IIRC clockwise, scrapes the crud off the filter element. There should be a drain plug in the filter bowl, but I can't remember if there is or not. Need to investigate that on mine at some time, might need disassembly once a decade or so



" For some arcane reason, it is calibrated in units of 0.007".
Obviously!
Probably a simple factor or what one tooth on the ratchet wheel gives you. Makes an amusing clattering noise when in operation.

"The thread on mine is 5/16BSW"
Ok, how old is this thing?
I think that the last two digits of the serial number denote the year of manufacture, but I could be very wrong on that. The number is stamped at the left hand end of the T slot that the stops slide in at the front of the table. If my assumption is right, that would make mine 1959 vintage, which sounds about right given where it came from.

I see only one manual oiling point in back on the mechanism that transmits the y axis power, also two grease fittings, probably for bevel gears.
Plus the vertical feed screw, and a couple of other places. See later...


On the back to front traverse ways, ther are two grease fittings toward the back, and two lugged up holes in the front. It looks like these ways are greased, not oiled. Has somebody put in a goofy kludge? Where were the original oiling points?
Those ways are actually ball slides with replaceable V ways. The book says oil them with the nipples at the back.

The original of the one that is sold on Ebay is actually a copy of the J&S manual that is shipped with every grinder. So I don't see any major problem with sharing:-

http://www.test-net.com/grinder-manual/

Please don't everybody grab it if they don't need it... there's just over 100MB of tif images there :eek:
 
Jon,

There should be a wheel balancing accessory and it is no good without coolant. I hope those came with it.
J&S made great machines.
Holes in the chuck - definitely don't want coolant/dust getting into the workings, but hopefully they are blind holes? As to effecting holding power, I guess try a test piece out using hand pressure to see if the magnetic power is good all over. I would be very wary about dismantling the chuck without instructions in case you loose magnetism.
 
Everybody;

Thanks much for the help. I have downloaded the files, so if they are choking the forum, then they can be moved to another place. It is really nice to have manuals for these old machines online.

I got two buckets of hyd fluid and poured one in, then noticed the other was higher weight. I will return for right stuff tomorrow.

At this point, it is all wired up, and spindle sounds great. It is the BB type, not plain bearings.

The fittings are apparently for oil, not grease, so I will need to work something up. They are not quite like Schaublin oil fittings, more like standard grease gun stuff. I am sure someone put grease in it at least once. Yeech.

I can hear some churning in thesoolant. I don't have quite enough fluid yet. When I went to pick it up, the seller demo'ed it, and said that the traverse had lost speed for some reason. I think there may be some issue with the hydraulics. Nothing is spurting out though.

I have no experience with hydraulics at all, and can barely figure out the diagram in the manual.
The manual talks about tesitng pressure at some points. What kind of gauge do I need, surely not one like for air compressors??


p.s. No, a balncer did not come with it, I will have to find one. Also, only the tank for the coolant unit was there, but I have one for my old crystal lake which I think will work just as well.

More work tomorrow!

Jon P.
 
With an older machine you may be better to give the hydraulic tank a good clean out.Also as one of the other Marks mentions the purolator filter needs turned to clean it,it is likely that it has never been cleaned in years.It might be a good idea to strip the filter and give it a good clean out as even when people have been giving it a turn now and again they probably never flushed it out.These filters have a series of close fitting plates in them and the muck gets trapped between the plates,when you turn it,it scrapes the muck of the plates but it is left in the filter bowl and eventually clogs it up.I also wouldn`t use anything heavier than an ISO 46 grade hydraulic oil.
It`s quite an old machine as it has the round stop start buttons.Later ones have square buttons and later still have the buttons on a seperate panel on the left hand side of the base.
Mark.
 
Folks;

After removing table and cleaning, plus fixing leak I didn't know was there, My J&S is now grinding away . The only thing not working yet is the feed/load/off lever on the coolant box. No matter where the lever is positioned, it seems to act as if it is in the "feed" position. Works for me!

Need to see if I can get a few wheel arbors on UK eBay.

Once I get the right wheel, & coolant arrangement, I will grind the chuck flat. Spindle sounds real good. HAven't measured for way wear yet. I can see on the ways that there is sme. A bit of flaking left here and there though.

I'm happy! Thanks again to all those who helped!

Jon P.
 
Why not offer some help instead of pure advertising?
G’day Mark.

Doesn’t that just give you the $hits? Nothing better than re-reading a 3 year old thread, only to find its been resurrected by some clown with something to sell.
I’m proposing a tribal council. And I’m voting this bloke off the island.

Regards Phil.
 








 
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