new-old Moore Jig Borer 1 1/2 need help on some details
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  1. #1
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    Default new-old Moore Jig Borer 1 1/2 need help on some details

    Here we go, a beautiful Jig Borer from Moore find is way to the shop.

    I have couple observations on this machine and I want to know is other owner had the same issues.

    1- There is a knob in the center of the quill wheel, doesn't seem to do anything... Is it the locking mechanism?

    2-When the seller show it, he traverse the x table to far, the lead screw doesn't seem to engage in the nut. Is it a case of disassembly or just hitting it with a soft hammer to reengage it?

    3-There is a came on the right of the head next to the thermometer, what is it for?

    4-Is there a reverse on the spindle?

    5-What kind of tapper does it take morse?

    Thanks,

    Simon

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    I can only answer two of those questions;

    3 That thermometer, as I understand it, displays the spindle taper and as the spindle temp fluctuates, you factor in the thermal expansion to get that little extra super-duper level of precision.

    5 No not Morse. It's basically a modified NMTB 30 taper (not sure if the taper angle is the same as NMTB 30, but that's how I've always seen it described) with no drive lugs on the face of the spindle taper and with a male square thread on the toolholder.

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    Pictures would be a help Its been a long time since I ran one.

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    No reverse on spindle, since toolholder threads in. Right hand thread.

    Be very careful re-engaging leadscrew in nut. Thread is fine, 10 pitch. It would be easy to damage the entrance of nut, which might damage leadscrew. There is very little clearance/backlash in this fit.

    Cam question... On my B-18 (#3) on the left side is a cam mechanism that is a depth stop.

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    The knob in the center of the quill wheel locks it for power feed or using the fine feed hand wheel.
    If the ways are worn in the middle the table could get stuck at the ends of travel. Try loosening the gib.

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    The spindle taper is 'similar' to a nmtb30 with a short male square thread at the small end. It is unique to Moore. It locks in with about one turn.

    An example; Moore Jig Borer 7/8"-2 TPI Threaded Adapter


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    Hello Simon&Simons,
    Once you get these bugs worked out you will be amazed of their performance. If I had my way I would have a room full of these tools. I perhaps have the oldest Moore still working serial #394. It's still produces "glass finish" bores.
    otrlt

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    Yes I will send pictures, it is not here now I'll have it delivered in a mount, can't wait to work with it since foundation of mechanical accuracy was I big game changer in my career I can't be more please to have one of there machine now.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rustytool View Post
    The knob in the center of the quill wheel locks it for power feed or using the fine feed hand wheel.
    If the ways are worn in the middle the table could get stuck at the ends of travel. Try loosening the gib.
    thanks, for the wheel detail

    for the table

    I turn the handle but there is no motion of the table, I 'll loose the gib and try the reintroduce the screw in the nut carefully... I'm surprise that this could happen

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    Quote Originally Posted by Davis In SC View Post

    Cam question... On my B-18 (#3) on the left side is a cam mechanism that is a depth stop.
    It look odd to me maby it's missing part... I will send pictures when it will be at the shop

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    Quote Originally Posted by Simon&Simon's View Post

    2-When the seller show it, he traverse the x table to far, the lead screw doesn't seem to engage in the nut. Is it a case of disassembly or just hitting it with a soft hammer to reengage it?

    Simon
    You are now the owner of one of the finest, most precise piece of machinery ever made.

    Be advised that there is a special place in Hell for people that hit Moore Jig Bores with a hammer!

    Please be very careful when engaging that screw as you can easily trash it. Take your time and make sure it is done right and you will be rewarded with a machine that has uncommon accuracy.

    The knob in the center of the wheel is the clutch adjustment for that wheel. tighten it and the drive takes over moving the spindle up and down. Loosen it and the handwheel takes over.

    Search eBay for tool holders, they are expensive and only the Moore tool holders work.

    The machine has only forward so if you want to do any tapping you will need to buy a reversing tapping head for it.


    Good luck! If you have the work for the machine you will love it

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    Quote Originally Posted by swatkins View Post
    Be advised that there is a special place in Hell for people that hit Moore Jig Bores with a hammer!
    I know, I shouldn't play on this sensible spring

    here's a picture of the came over the thermometer
    No idea how it work, is it missing a part???
    picture0814171338_1.jpg

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    Quote Originally Posted by Simon&Simon's View Post
    I know, I shouldn't play on this sensible spring

    here's a picture of the came over the thermometer
    No idea how it work, is it missing a part???
    picture0814171338_1.jpg
    That's the depth stop. You'll figure it out in a flash once you have it in your shop.

    The tool holders, boring heads and mounted chucks are fairy readily available on eBay. Just start searching for them and be patient and picky about what you spring for.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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    Quote Originally Posted by otrlt View Post
    Hello Simon&Simons,
    Once you get these bugs worked out you will be amazed of their performance. If I had my way I would have a room full of these tools. I perhaps have the oldest Moore still working serial #394. It's still produces "glass finish" bores.
    otrlt
    I have #755.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails dscn0826.jpg  

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    I just did some trading with PM member swatkins and ended up with his Moore #2 (#5362 built 1954). Our's is all there and functioning with a decent assortment of tooling. Now I'm relearning how to set-up a job, edge-find, and lay-out the tools, as my usual bag of Bridgeport and Horizontal tricks feels very inadequate compared to what this machine is capable of.
    moore.jpg
    The aluminum boxes on the right of the machine will be one of it's first jobs: boring 2 pair of 2" press fit holes for ball bearings that are true from one side of the gearbox to the other.

    Our's has the same cam assembly on the right side of the head. My understanding is that it gives you 2 rotations before the stop engages, and you can rotate the cam around and use the knob to set where the stop is at.

    Our's has an old Acu-rite 3 2-axis DRO that reads to .0001 (2um) increments. It's plenty accurate but I kinda want to upgrade to a newer display with more functions and higher resolution scales to get at least .00005 (1um) increments. It would be nice to have the 3rd axis on the display as well, but I can't decide if it should be mounted on the head or on the quill?

    Ours doesn't have a thermometer on the head. I wonder how hard it would be to add one?

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    Quote Originally Posted by rustytool View Post
    I have #755.
    Beautiful machine

    Thanks for all your support.
    Does Moore had different taper number for different size machine?

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    Before I'd beat on a machine I'd loosen the hand wheel and what ever else then push the screw toward the table while turning it in the right direction to feed into the nut , the screw should only have to move 1 tenth of an inch to engage the thread, wind the table in some, the turn the handle the other way till the table starts to move then tighten things where they were. After this is done find out why there isn't a table stop so this doesn't happen again.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Simon&Simon's View Post
    Thanks for all your support.
    Does Moore had different taper number for different size machine?
    The holders are the same for all machines!



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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    I absolutely love my Moore. The machines are cheaper than the tooling. I keep thinking back to all the shops I have worked at and why didn't they have 4 or 10 of these things. Screw a Bridgeport!

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    I have Moore 1 1/2 and a no. 3 but haven't had time to install either yet. The bottom approx. 1 foot of each looks like it was embedded in concrete at the former location. These machines seem top-heavy (one fell part way over in truck on way here) and either sunk-in-concrete or a special load-spreader foundation is needed. Can someone post pictures of how their Moore is mounted/anchored to the floor to keep it upright? Making a hole in the concrete floor is not an option in our leased space.


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