new-old Moore Jig Borer 1 1/2 need help on some details - Page 2
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  1. #21
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    Gravity should be sufficient.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  2. #22
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    If you read the Moore instructions they are pretty straight forward. Machine has pads cast in the base. Only set the machine on these pads. If you must level, put shims under these pads.

    I brought my No.3 in, set it on the floor, wired it up and started making chips. It isn't incredibly accurate and a thrill to run.

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  4. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fal Grunt View Post
    If you read the Moore instructions they are pretty straight forward. Machine has pads cast in the base. Only set the machine on these pads. If you must level, put shims under these pads.

    I brought my No.3 in, set it on the floor, wired it up and started making chips. It isn't incredibly accurate and a thrill to run.
    Thanks, will check that out next time I'm near them.

    Your last sentence is important enough for me to want to ask if it has typos or is exactly what u meant to write-if word "isn't" is what u meant, that's interesting and different from the earlier comments in this thread.

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    Just my phone trying to be smart for me.

    One of the reasons I like this old stuff so much. It does exactly what I tell it to and NOTHING more!

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    Still seems there might be a disconnect here. Look at the pic of the base of our Moore 1 1/2 after it tipped in the truck despite seller's half-azz plastic strapping job. Look at how narrow base is compared to whole machine. I don't see any feet. If this was sitting on this base on our concrete floor, it seems like one little tap from the forklift backing a little too far would send it over on its side. Front-to-back stability is much better since base is much longer in that direction. Wonder if there was another piece to the base that's missing? If a larger base is missing I guess I'll just make a tight-fitting horizontal I-beam or channel frame with short stabilizing wings out to the sides. It would be a bolt-together, not welded, so it could be tightened as needed. The darker, more oxidized appearance on the base tells me it was "in" something that collected dirt and liquids over time.

    Last edited by Cannonmn; 09-07-2017 at 12:14 PM. Reason: Add

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    Ok I've been looking at pix online since not at shop today-this series of machines has basically a T-shaped bottom and all I was looking at was the photo from the rear. All should be ok.

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    Hey guys quick update from the machine is here
    The lead screw problem wasn't one, the handle was loose from the dial after running it over travel so no hammering needed and hell can wait :P

    Secondo, I have a problem with the feed mechanism see pics. Look like the planetary gear turn around the sun, but the sun stay still... so no feed. Look like I could miss a part here to keep the planet steady?

    The movers also smash the oil cap on the side of Y axis so I need to redo one... aluminium should do? I know is a plastic part but...don't want to find the right plastic with the right color.

    dsc05284.jpgdsc05285.jpgdsc05286.jpgdsc05287.jpg

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    Quote Originally Posted by swatkins View Post
    You are now the owner of one of the finest, most precise piece of machinery ever made.

    Be advised that there is a special place in Hell for people that hit Moore Jig Bores with a hammer!

    Please be very careful when engaging that screw as you can easily trash it. Take your time and make sure it is done right and you will be rewarded with a machine that has uncommon accuracy.

    The knob in the center of the wheel is the clutch adjustment for that wheel. tighten it and the drive takes over moving the spindle up and down. Loosen it and the handwheel takes over.

    Search eBay for tool holders, they are expensive and only the Moore tool holders work.

    The machine has only forward so if you want to do any tapping you will need to buy a reversing tapping head for it.


    Good luck! If you have the work for the machine you will love it
    Sorry to call you back on this post but I need a little help if you can give me a clue I'll really appreciate. Problem describe on the last post. Thanks,
    Simon
    Simon

  12. #29
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    Do you have a manual and drawings for it?


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    Poked my head up on the top of my Moore... doesn't appear that the No.3 has the same mechanism. Will take a closer look as soon as I can.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cannonmn View Post
    Still seems there might be a disconnect here. Look at the pic of the base of our Moore 1 1/2 after it tipped in the truck despite seller's half-azz plastic strapping job. Look at how narrow base is compared to whole machine. I don't see any feet. If this was sitting on this base on our concrete floor, it seems like one little tap from the forklift backing a little too far would send it over on its side. Front-to-back stability is much better since base is much longer in that direction. Wonder if there was another piece to the base that's missing? If a larger base is missing I guess I'll just make a tight-fitting horizontal I-beam or channel frame with short stabilizing wings out to the sides. It would be a bolt-together, not welded, so it could be tightened as needed. The darker, more oxidized appearance on the base tells me it was "in" something that collected dirt and liquids over time.

    Mine have a aluminium raiser with hole to level it... look like you are missing this piece. Without this part this machine is very low and I'm 5'8'' If you have a moment can you pick on the top and look at the feed mechanism to see if you have the same than me. I don't have any manual and it look like I'm missing a part under the planetary gear. Thanks

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stradbash View Post
    Do you have a manual and drawings for it?


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    Nope, I look around for it didn't find anything

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    Quote Originally Posted by rustytool View Post
    I have #755.
    I just picked up J100

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    I have a Moore No.3 and it is a wonderful machine. I also have the details of the quill taper which is unique to Moore and can dig the data out for you if you decide to make anything as some adapters are becoming scarce or expensive. I made some for morse 1, 2 and 3 tooling, 2 Wohlhaupter borings heads and an ER 16 collett holder. I do remember the "none influencing thread" (as Moore call it) which holds the adapters into the quill is 0.550" od, with a 1/4" pitch square thread, but let me get the exact details before you take my word for that!
    I was going to say, check the knurled knob on the end of the leadscrew to see if it is tight as that would give the problem you are experiencing, but you beat me to it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by macchi7 View Post
    I also have the details of the quill taper which is unique to Moore and can dig the data out for you if you decide to make anything as some adapters are becoming scarce or expensive. I made some for morse 1, 2 and 3 tooling, 2 Wohlhaupter borings heads and an ER 16 collett holder. I do remember the "none influencing thread" (as Moore call it) which holds the adapters into the quill is 0.550" od, with a 1/4" pitch square thread, but let me get the exact details before you take my word for that!
    I would be very interested in these details.

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    Send me your email to
    [email protected]
    and I will send you a drawing by return
    Gary

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    I don't have a Moore, yet, but am interested in the details of the Moore tooling.

    Posting it somewhere on the net (here?) would make it available to all.

  22. #39
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    Center in this photo is an adjustable for run-out collet chuck I fabricated on the also fabulous Monarch ee lathe, for my Moore #2 special from the High Energy Weapons Program.
    I fabricated that chuck to use modified end mills for quick high accuracy dowel pin holes. The machine does one thing very well, locate and make holes.

    Just for a fun fact, the Moore #2 and 3, can repair every bearing hole, and correct critical alignment for the Harley Davidson K, XL, XR series motorcycle crankcases. That is a lot of holes!

  23. #40
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    A couple of decades ago I had an experienced hand help me with the Moore #2 I have, and I still can remember some basic stuff some may find helpful.

    The tool shanks should be tested for fit in the machine spindle using Prussian blue. If the tool shank shows poor fit, it can be carefully lapped in a lathe running about 250 rpm, using a 3/8" wide or so strip of lead charged with fine lapping compound.
    Not as hard as it sounds, if you stick your finger up into the spindle taper, there is a gap in the center, this makes it easier to fit the shank, sort of hard to explain totally.
    The reasons for this include, exact tool changes, and solid tool mounting.

    To check alignment spindle to table.
    The table needs to be kept de burred for obvious reasons, so, using a small hard Arkansas stone and thin oil carefully de burr the table.
    With a tenth indicator mounted in the spindle and extended near the edge of the table, check at 90 degrees by positioning the indicator, and then slide a gage block under the indicator at those points to get a more accurate reading.
    The tolerance is in the manual of 80 millionths of an inch, just a little less then one mark on your tenth indicator.
    Not quite there in tolerance, things can happen to the machine when moving it, perhaps some corrections can be made.
    Keep that indicator and gage block handy.
    The fellow a little back said, don't hit the machine with a hammer and he is right, but we are going to do it anyway.

    The upper structure of the machine is bolted to the lower structure. Loosen all the bolts about 1/2 turn, get your arm inside the hollow of the upper structure and bang on the walls all around the inside, you cant get much of a swing in there so wail away a little while. That will help relieve any pinch the bolts may had from the machine getting bumped around.
    Alright, now while checking the four points spindle to table with the tenths indicator and gage block, begin torqueing the column bolts, it will be obvious when to stop.
    If that is of any interest, let me know I certainly can continue.

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