jermfab
Cast Iron
- Joined
- Jul 25, 2013
- Location
- atlanta, ga
I’m sure it’s too light duty for some here and probably not accurate enough for others, but this is my newest fabrication table.
48” x 96” x 3/4” top
All the tubing is 3/16” wall, except for the clamp rack round tubing. That’s some very light DOM I had about.
I made leveling feet from a couple of the slugs I got from the holes in the table:
They’re 3” diameter, punched with a mag-drill and Milwaukee steel hawg carbide-tipped annular cutter on 16” centers.
The holes allow for a 4800# Bessey clamp to reach pretty much anywhere on the table to clamp a part:
I believe the deep 2400# Besseys have about the same throat, so they will get the same clamp coverage in a lighter clamp.
My theory is that if you can easily employ a clamp there’s less time spent messing about with fixtures and welding/unwelding things to the table. Hopefully the surface will stay smoother and flatter a little longer that way. I’m also not limited to a proprietary clamp that doesn’t work anywhere else in the shop. If I need to I can always drill and tap a 1/2-13 hole and using toe-clamps, etc, if the need arises.
The spreaders on the long sides allow the table to be moved quickly and easily with a pallet-jack and the open ends on the short sides makes pushing a broom under the table easier.
Anyhow, I just wanted to share. I don’t claim the design is perfect and won’t meet everyone’s needs, every time. The design has proven versatile for my typical needs.
Be safe and stay healthy
Jeremy see
48” x 96” x 3/4” top
All the tubing is 3/16” wall, except for the clamp rack round tubing. That’s some very light DOM I had about.
I made leveling feet from a couple of the slugs I got from the holes in the table:
They’re 3” diameter, punched with a mag-drill and Milwaukee steel hawg carbide-tipped annular cutter on 16” centers.
The holes allow for a 4800# Bessey clamp to reach pretty much anywhere on the table to clamp a part:
I believe the deep 2400# Besseys have about the same throat, so they will get the same clamp coverage in a lighter clamp.
My theory is that if you can easily employ a clamp there’s less time spent messing about with fixtures and welding/unwelding things to the table. Hopefully the surface will stay smoother and flatter a little longer that way. I’m also not limited to a proprietary clamp that doesn’t work anywhere else in the shop. If I need to I can always drill and tap a 1/2-13 hole and using toe-clamps, etc, if the need arises.
The spreaders on the long sides allow the table to be moved quickly and easily with a pallet-jack and the open ends on the short sides makes pushing a broom under the table easier.
Anyhow, I just wanted to share. I don’t claim the design is perfect and won’t meet everyone’s needs, every time. The design has proven versatile for my typical needs.
Be safe and stay healthy
Jeremy see