New welding table- painted top removal ideas
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  1. #1
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    Default New welding table- painted top removal ideas

    Am I doing Something dangerous to my health by grinding this unknown substance off? Anyone know what it most likely could be?
    I bought A used steel topped table this week. 3x5’ and 1.5” thick top.
    It was pretty rusty. I began Wire brushing it off and that revealed a black “paint” like enamel surface over the bare metal top.
    This “paint” would not grind off or wire brush off very well. (3 hours of wire brushing and it’s still there)
    flap discs didn’t work either as they “clogged” up with this black stuff and it would stop sanding immediately.
    I tried Muriatic acid as well. Full strength for a couple hours and it removed some of the black paint but just a dent into it.

    I’ll try to attach pictures I took.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Grnmtntri11 View Post
    Am I doing Something dangerous to my health by grinding this unknown substance off? Anyone know what it most likely could be?
    I bought A used steel topped table this week. 3x5’ and 1.5” thick top.
    It was pretty rusty. I began Wire brushing it off and that revealed a black “paint” like enamel surface over the bare metal top.
    This “paint” would not grind off or wire brush off very well. (3 hours of wire brushing and it’s still there)
    flap discs didn’t work either as they “clogged” up with this black stuff and it would stop sanding immediately.
    I tried Muriatic acid as well. Full strength for a couple hours and it removed some of the black paint but just a dent into it.

    I’ll try to attach pictures I took.
    Are you wearing a face mask ?

    if your concerned, farm it out to a sandblast shop.

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    Lye might work Or not
    Or paint thinner covered with plastic so it does not evaporate that quick
    Best outdoors It can be unhealty like most things in life. In fact living is dangerous You die of it

    Muratic acid does not do much on paint
    That is to remove rust But I hate the stuff as it gets the whole shop rusting

    Peter

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    Sandblasting would be the easiest for you, dunno about your wallet.......
    If youre grinding it, try using a hard bonded wheel instead of a wire brush or flap disc. It won't load up as quickly but will leave grinding marks. After the paint is off, try a flap disc or belt sander to smooth out the terrain.

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    Try some acetone to see if that softens the paint. If it does, then soak it and scrape it off. I agree with others that sand blasting may be the way to go. If you have the time, pick up a throw away sand blaster gun from harbor freight for $20 and do it yourself.

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    The black paint that is gumming up the sanding disc's is very thick.
    Sandblasting has trouble with "rubbery" coatings.

    Pour some gas on it, and light it to burn the paint first.

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    Quote Originally Posted by digger doug View Post
    Pour some gas on it, and light it to burn the paint first.
    I wanna come watch that!

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    Get one of those weed burner flame thrower thingies and burn it off. I'm guessing it will soften enough to easily scrape off. Or buy one of those electric paint softener/scraper dohickies. It's a heating element with a handle and scraper. Lay it on the table for a few seconds and it softens about 6" square, then scrape. Finish clean with a flap wheel.
    In any event I'd do it out side...Bob

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    The description of difficulty and failed attempts at removal somehow make me wonder if the "paint" could be mill scale. Heating a small section with a torch should melt and blister off any paint but won't do much to scale.

    Denis

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    Quote Originally Posted by ChipSplitter View Post
    I wanna come watch that!
    Not in your front yard....duh

    Any sandblasting yard is pretty much fire safe with all the sand laying around.

    If you would toss it on a bonfire, or try to hold a torch on it, you would not have a flat welding table any more now eh ?

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    The “paint” is definitely not millscale.
    I’ll attach some pictures of the progress I’ve made so you can see the surface. It’s very interesting stuff. I would Have thought paint would come off much easier.
    I sold my sandblasted a year ago because I never Used it.
    I’ve tried paint thinner as well with no success.

    I’m going to try heating with my oxy torch or propane weed torch I use For starting Bon fires.

    I like All the ideas so far.
    Pics coming, as soon as I cab Figure out how to get them on here. Keep having errors...
    Thank you

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    The “paint” on the surface isn’t really acting like paint
    And it definitely is not millscale.
    I’ll try attaching the pictures if I Can Figure out how to successfully post them.
    My next step was to try burning it off with a torch.
    I sold My sandblasted a year ago because I never Used it..

    Pics coming
    Thanks for all the ideas

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    Maybe it’s Por15, a paint for rusty surfaces. That usually comes off with paint stripper. If you can get some in your area.

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    That’s an $80 drop off and pick up next week job at my local sandblaster outfit. Just my opinion, but why not use the guys who are set up to do the bigger (altho this is small for a pro) nasty jobs? I keep in house the smaller more delicate media blasting jobs.

    L7

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    3 hours of wire brushing is about 2 hours and 58 minutes more than you'd ever see me doing.....

    Sandblasting is the answer, no matter what else. Not only is it 'easy' for you, some other guy's lungs will get full of whatever nasty shit that is stuck to the top. If they ask any questions when you drop it off, just act like you don't know nothing. If they press you for evidence, tell them you already tried muriatic acid.

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    Another thought, depending on what accuracy/budget you have for the table, is to get it Blanchard ground.

    Me, I’d just get it blasted and use it..

    L7

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    Quote Originally Posted by GregSY View Post
    some other guy's lungs will get full of whatever nasty shit that is stuck to the top. .
    Uhm...yeah.

    "Bullard" is the premiere maker of the blasting hoods most all use.

    "supplied air" is the buzzword here.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Grnmtntri11 View Post
    The “paint” on the surface isn’t really acting like paint
    And it definitely is not millscale.
    I’ll try attaching the pictures if I Can Figure out how to successfully post them.
    My next step was to try burning it off with a torch.
    I sold My sandblasted a year ago because I never Used it..

    Pics coming
    Thanks for all the ideas
    Porcelain.

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    Quote Originally Posted by digger doug View Post

    Pour some gas on it, and light it to burn the paint first.
    Torch will do it too, there will be soot to deal with though.

    That's pipelining 101.

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    Quote Originally Posted by digger doug View Post
    Uhm...yeah.

    "Bullard" is the premiere maker of the blasting hoods most all use.

    "supplied air" is the buzzword here.
    More power to him then....

    I can tell you around here, even at the big-dog blasting places, they might have a hood and it might be supplied air but whenever I see them they don't have it installed properly or properly maintained. It's probably better than nothing but they're still breathing way more junk than the guy working at the Target pharmacy.


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