O/T Can you rotorooter corrugated drain pipe

I have a storm drain that we put in 10 or 12 years ago that is pretty blocked up with tree roots. Can corrugated be rotorootered? Any other suggestions?

What about cost? I have one section that is about 80' and another that is @ 280'. I could put clean outs in the longer section if that's too long to rotorooter.

I would prefer not to dig it up and replace it yet. If I can get another 10 years out of it before having to dig it up and replace it I would be really happy. Then I could do it once more before I die and then it's someone else's problem.

And then how often should I plan on doing this? No weeping willows. Just oaks and maples.

Copper sulfate can be used to kill the tree roots. It will need to be used every few years to keep them down. The roots will still have to be removed somehow, probably mechanically. There are sewer cleaners that are larger than a typical rotorooter. Over 50 gpm at 3500 psi does a good job on roots. Finding one that is affordable may be a difficult task. You may have a local company that cleans drain tile lines for farm fields that could do the job.

Can corrugated be rotorootered

Click to expand...

no................

no again..........!

Ok - thanks guys. So gbent - it sounds like sewer jetting is an option. I have someone scheduled to come out tomorrow morning. I will post what they say. Thanks again.

Just bare in mind at the pressures it takes to cut roots off your going to damage any marginal pipe work. Equally some of the root killing chemicals are a lot better about reducing regrowth rates than others.

One thing you may have to do is put a camera down to see if it is actually tree roots. It could even be collapsed, or separated at a joint. Just another possible cause.

If I can get another 10 years out of it before having to dig it up and replace it I would be really happy

Click to expand...

dig it up now and do it with real pipe (they got a new stuff with corrugation on the outside and smooth on the inside)

in 10 years pipe is gonna cost more and joe is gonna want to do it even less

adama - the pipe is a 6" corrugated plastic. There are two tee connections. Is that what you mean by marginal?

plumberpieco - There's no need for a camera. As soon as you take the grate off of the driveway drain and look in there you can see the tree roots.

Water is still moving through the pipe - it's just gotten slow. But with the mass of tree roots in there it must only be a matter of time until it blocks off completely.

The guy came out this morning but when he saw that it was corrugated he said he would have to wait for another crew to finish up with the sewer jet and come back. He said he'll be back later this afternoon - plus when he saw my shop he asked me if I can thread some barrels for him.

No when i say marginal i mean metal thats started to rust, or plastic that has stated to collapse - been plough damaged on the bit i had to replace. The jet literally finished collapseing the damaged part. If the pipes in good condition it should jet ok. But then again if it was in good condition how would the tree rots have got in there or is it the perforated stuff?

As to killing the roots, some of the chemicals have a growh hormone like affect, they not only kill the root in the line but stop it from regrowing as well whilst not actually causing enough harm - spread to harm the trees concerned. IIRC some of them recommend treatment a certain period before cutting the roots back so they can get absorbed well and do there stuff first.

The foaming rootkiller can be bought in bulk on ebay and probably farm stores for less then at Home depot or Lowes. Supposed to apply before rooting, no idea on wait time before rooting, or within two hours of rooting. Otherwise wait about six weeks after rooting to apply.
Bill D.

Thanks Bill D. Do you have a name for me?

rootkiller powder. Before use pour it into a clean dry pan. Stir to Break up any lumps with a stick then pour into drain. You do not want lumps to not go down drain or it will backup and overflow on your feet.
I think one pound is for average length? home sewer pipe of four inch diameter. Flush down toilet let sit overnight
Bill D.

RootX - Foaming Root Killer

http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&ke...vptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_7lorjpv3sx_b

The foam-based herbicides come in a variety of formulations--drier foams like shaving cream, or wetter foams like dishwashing soap bubbles. Larger pipe sizes and longer runs require wetter foams and different application techniques.

Pre-mixed formulas sold for home septic systems are probably not the best for an 8' and 280' foot run, especially with Tee connections in them. The foam is likely too dry. Sags that hold standing water can be an issue too. Sometimes the discharge end of the drain is plugged before applying and the herbicide is allowed to stand in the pipe for a while.

If you don't want to keep re-applying this stuff constantly might be best to have an experienced applicator do it. Mechanical removal will have the same issue of course--if done without the combined use of herbicide may need to be repeated even more often, as the cutting stimulates new growth. Using both together is best.

Here's one source of info. Chapters 3 and 7 are the most relevant. http://www.cdpr.ca.gov/docs/license/pubs/sewrline.pdf

Bill D and Sea Farmer - thanks for the great info! Very helpful. These two drain lines that I am concerned about are storm water drains only - not sanitary or septic.

So the sewer jet guy got there about 2:30 yesterday an in half an hour he had the main line cleared out. Then he spent another hour going through the three arteries I have feeding into the main driveway drain. That thing was really cool. So anyhow, everything is opened up and running freely again.

He recommends having it done every two to three years. I think I will mark it on my calendar for every even numbered year just to be safe. I will also use the rootkiller that you guys have recommended.

GBent - I asked him about the longer 280 foot run and he said no problem to that as well. He said they have enough line to go 500'. But first I am going to put a couple of tee's in place with surface drains - that way he can go from tee to tee and check on progress and it will also move the ground water faster.

I never thought about drainage when I bought this house 15 years ago. All I cared about was that it was in an area that was zoned so I could legally run a business from it. Now when I drive around town all I think about is drainage. Now when I look at any house the first thing I think about is where their storm water is going.

Oh well, all it takes is time and money right? After putting in all this drainage we have a dry basement, I have been able to keep the water out of the shop, and the yard dries up in a day or two after a heavy rain. Now if I can keep the roots out I will be ok.

So it cost me $350 for the service call. I thought it was pretty fair considering these guys have no idea what they're going to run into. He said it would be the same cost for the 280' run. Next time I will be ready for him and have him do both.

Thanks for all the help gentlemen!

Who ever is saying you can’t use a roto rooter or Roto Rooter on corrugated pipe is wrong! Here is video proof! https://youtu.be/y98txHEBn8U

Who ever is saying you can't use a speed Rooter or Roto Rooter on Corrugated pipe is wrong And here is video evidence to prove them wrong. https://youtu.be/y98txHEBn8U

Possible dangerous link?
Reported and emailed don.

IMO, that corrugated black plastic drain tile should be illegal, as should running downspouts into the same system that drains the foundation. It doesn't cost much more to use proper gasketed pipe that you'll never have to dig up, plus you can clean it without damage if necessary. Glad the jetting worked but once you've had a serious drainage issue, as in lack of, you'll develop strong opinions on the matter.

16 year old post, he prolly has it sorted out by now!