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Indexer dog driver question
- Thread starter bll230
- Start date
- Replies 11
- Views 2,235
Jersey John
Stainless
- Joined
- May 29, 2015
- Location
- Beccles / Suffolk, United Kingdom
Its a drive dog and there are several shapes and many sizes. If you google "Lathe Drive Dog" you'll see lots of versions.
You can look at Hardinge in the US or Jones & Shipman, high quality ones from the UK and should be in the US too.
John
You can look at Hardinge in the US or Jones & Shipman, high quality ones from the UK and should be in the US too.
John
Zahnrad Kopf
Diamond
- Joined
- Apr 5, 2010
- Location
- Tropic of Milwaukee
It's a variation on a typical, standard one that used to be commonly used. However, using them fairly frequently, I have found drive dogs to be a fairly customizable concept over the years. Sure, there are general ones that lend themselves to more use than others, but many, many times drive dogs are modified or made to suit. The one you pictured is ridiculously simple to make. Shouldn't take more than 45 minutes taking one's time. I have a venerable drawer full of dogs at this point, used for everything from Turning, to Hobbing, to Cylindrical Grinding. But then, I tend to favor working between centers over holding diameters. That, combined with often needing parts with features timed to another has insured their presence here.
Thanks ZK. You know what I am talking about. I am going to try making gears on centers on my BC #3. I got some GTD taper arbors some years back (0.005 inches per foot, or something like that) and I going to try to implement them in my blank holding arsenal. Do you use a drawbar on the B&S 9 center in your BC, or is the taper friction sufficient?
Zahnrad Kopf
Diamond
- Joined
- Apr 5, 2010
- Location
- Tropic of Milwaukee
Ah. I have never been a fan of taper arbors like that, for Hobbing. I have seen them slip and destroy the Hob too many times. It is simply not difficult to make a proper arbor that is specific to the application and ensures positive work holding and peace of mind. As for using the B&S #9 taper, I ditched that bitch years ago. I could never justify the down time to remove the spindle and have it opened up to something useful ( 5C or otherwise ) and the quotes I was getting for the effort seemed a little high anyway. So, I ended up designing and making an ER40 collet chuck that attached to the spindle face and allowed for adjustment like a Set-Tru. One of the best things I ever did to that machine. Also made some spindle depth stops and various centers. Our Instagram feed has pics of these things if you want to dig a little.
johnoder
Diamond
- Joined
- Jul 16, 2004
- Location
- Houston, TX USA
The part pictured in Post #1 fits a turned down area on a center made for the purpose - and does not apply to just any #9 B&S center
You can see this turned down area on the center in the same thumbnail
B&S's name for part 733 was Work Driver
You can see this turned down area on the center in the same thumbnail
B&S's name for part 733 was Work Driver
L Vanice
Diamond
- Joined
- Feb 8, 2006
- Location
- Fort Wayne, IN
It is, as your title says, a dog driver. Dividing and indexing head dog drivers are characterized by one or two opposing set screws to assure that there is no backlash between the driver and the tail of the dog. Hardinge makes a nice, easily copied, dog, model G1. For Hardinge lathes, where backlash does no harm, the dog driver, model G12, has a simple slot for the dog's tail. For Hardinge indexing and dividing heads, most of which have 5C collet spindles, Hardinge makes a 5C shank dog driver, model M1, with a solid 60 degree point and a wide slot with two opposed set screws.
Larry
My center has a straight section so I can mount a similar driver. I guess as JohnOder says since the driver fits a particular center there is no universal part. I'll just make one to fit my straight section. Larry, the Hardinge M1 would be perfect except I don't have the Barber Colman 5C adapter (an unobtanium part...) I do have the BC collet adapter and a few collets for it, but no center driver for it. It is a proprietary design so nothing available for it either.
SBLatheman
Titanium
- Joined
- Jul 7, 2008
- Location
- South Bend, In
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L Vanice
Diamond
- Joined
- Feb 8, 2006
- Location
- Fort Wayne, IN
I had occasion to look up the current Hardinge prices on the M1 5C male center with driver for indexing heads and the G1 driving dog. The results are amusing, or heartbreaking if you actually wanted to buy one.
ShopHardinge - U 0009186 M1 5C center with driver $4155.00. In 1989, the price was $100.50.
ShopHardinge - 37 0002617 G1 driving dog $1521.00 Two pieces of square steel key stock, a dowel pin and two screws! In 1989, the price was $40.00.
Larry
johnoder
Diamond
- Joined
- Jul 16, 2004
- Location
- Houston, TX USA
And under Ted's set screw in his photo is a milled flat - so the dog driver can actually drive something - assuming #9 ( or other caliber) is sufficiently stuck in its taper
Larry, that is some impressive pricing. Coincidentally, I just recently bought the center from Ted. My Barber Colman project was delayed by my Monarch 10EE project. I made the displayed driver, I'll make one similar to the Hardinge one at some point.
Ted (SBLatheMan) was indispensable when I was rebuilding my SB 9 and 10L, he continues to be helpful with my 10EE and Barber Colman. He also had a B&S #9 arbor with a 3/4 inch straight section that may have been made for a Barber Colman #3.
Ted (SBLatheMan) was indispensable when I was rebuilding my SB 9 and 10L, he continues to be helpful with my 10EE and Barber Colman. He also had a B&S #9 arbor with a 3/4 inch straight section that may have been made for a Barber Colman #3.
