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Options for metric rotobroach. Sharpen or no.

jamscal

Stainless
Joined
Sep 8, 2004
Location
Louisville, KY
I bought a Siegmund 4x8 welding table. It's awesome.

I also have a cast iron machine table...approx 4x10 that is flat and has 2 square sides. It's an inch thick at the thinnest and also webbed to about 3 inches.

Anyway I bought a 28 mm rotobroach to start drilling holes in the cast iron table to match so we can use the clamps on both.

Using a single speed mag drill.(seems too fast)

We got 6 holes and my employee says the top layer of cast iron is noticably harder to break through than what's beneath. It dulled out and won't cut anymore.

Local sharpening place wants $25 to resharpen. Bit costs $60. (by the time I make 2 trips it seems the $25 will match the $60).

I would probably want in the neighborhood of 40 holes in this.

What are my options, either bit wise or process wise?

We discussed drilling a pilot hole for the pointer on the rotobroach and die grinding through what we perceive as the hard layer.

We are using coolant.
 
Have a local T and C grind shop that could cheaply modify a 1.125” carbide tip annular cutter?

L7
 
The surface is chill cast, they use a big iron plate to chill the metal as it flows into the mould, definately hard, carbide is the best bet
Mark
 
I have used "sharpen my annular cutter .com" before and got good results. I have also sharpened them on the bench grinder before and did ok. I have come to use the carbide tipped ones more when repairing holes that were worn & welded shut. Look on ebay, even the Chinese ones will work.
 








 
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