OT - Brake pipe flaring tools

Webley91 · Dec 5, 2014

I am looking to put some flares on the end of some inch diameter brake pipes with 3/8 and 7/16" UNF Fittings. I will need to do concave and convex flares on both copper and steel pipes.

Can anyone recommend a particular type or manufacturer of tool?

Thanks for any replies.

moonlight machine · Dec 5, 2014

I have Snap On tools for both reverse and bubble flares, they work fine. Are Snap On tools available across the pond?

Monomer · Dec 5, 2014

brake line flaring tools

Only tool I'd buy. The normal screw-type are a pita and often don't flare nicely. Be SURE to deburr thoroughly.

Limy Sami · Dec 5, 2014

Hi Webley - look at Sykes Picavant in the UK, that said for many years I used a car parts store ''screw type'' cheapy and keep it for in situ work.

Use ''kunifer'' (it's a copper nickel mix) tube, not that steel bundy crap.

Oh yeah - if you've single leading shoe rear drum brakes on that Landy, let us know - there's a trick to getting the air out to get a hard pedal, ..............like wise if you have twin leading shoe fronts and are replacing the link pipe between the two cylinders

Royldean · Dec 5, 2014

Webley91 said:
I am looking to put some flares on the end of some inch diameter brake pipes with 3/8 and 7/16" UNF Fittings. I will need to do concave and convex flares on both copper and steel pipes.

INCH DIAMETER BRAKE PIPE? What on earth are these brake tubes for? More importantly, if the pipe is inch diameter (either actual OD, or inch "pipe" OD), why are they being used with 3/8" or 7/16" fittings?

I used to be a brake tube engineer for one of the big three, and this makes no sense to me.... Are these brakes for the nasa crawler transporter? (and even then, 1" seems like insane overkill)

mjk · Dec 5, 2014

I really don't think he's using 1" diameter brake tubing .....he'd spend a fortune in fluid

He is probably using inch size instead of metric size

stephen thomas · Dec 5, 2014

Roy- I think he means "inch" rather than metric dimensions for the tube. Note where posting from. IOW, he is clarifying because it makes a difference due to the collet/gripper dimensions.

I like the rotating eccentric/planetary versions, but it's been a half dozen years since I did a brake system; and at the time even then it was not economically smart. Still have the tools. Think mine might be Rigid brand, will check later.

Edit: Looks like MJ was posting while I was looking and typing.

smt

Jeremy · Dec 5, 2014

Looks pretty nifty: Professional Brake Tubing Flaring Tool - Brake Flaring Tool - Brake Tube Flaring

Limy Sami · Dec 5, 2014

Royldean said:
INCH DIAMETER BRAKE PIPE? What on earth are these brake tubes for? More importantly, if the pipe is inch diameter (either actual OD, or inch "pipe" OD), why are they being used with 3/8" or 7/16" fittings?

I used to be a brake tube engineer for one of the big three, and this makes no sense to me.... Are these brakes for the nasa crawler transporter? (and even then, 1" seems like insane overkill)

If they're for Webley's Land Rover, they are 3/16 (4.75mm) OD tubes, and MOST of the fittings used are threaded 3/8'' & 7/16'' UNF - male and female.

Piek · Dec 5, 2014

i have this stahlwille 165N. Works well, perhaps a bit expensive.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EE5PblTM62Q

ManicMetalBasher · Dec 5, 2014

#4 LS "Hi Webley - look at Sykes Pickavant in the UK"

Seconded, Assuming you need a few pipes.
If you need a few hundred pipes Cohline will make them cheaper than you can.
Rich

Royldean · Dec 5, 2014

Ahh! It all makes sense now.

aspp · Dec 5, 2014

If your going to be doing it occationally one of these sets will be a good idea: https://www.google.com/shopping/pro...sTA&ei=heyBVK25DYiDiwLy-IGwBA&ved=0CGwQpiswAA

If your doing it fairly often get a hydraulic set up like this: Universal Hydraulic Flaring Kit NOT FOR STAINLESS

Webley91 · Dec 5, 2014

Thanks for the replies.

When I said "inch diameter" I was referring to imperial sized pipes (3/16" and 1/4"). The 3/16" ones (with 3/8" UNF fittings) are copper and came as part of a ready made set for the vehicle. However, the front two are each about a foot too long and need to be cut down and re-crimped.

The 1/4" Steel one (with 7/16" UNF fitting) is actually for the clutch cylinder. This one simply needs the fitting replacing as the one on it at the moment is rounded off.

The tool posted by Jeremy looks nice, but $200 plus shipping to the UK for three crimps is a bit excessive.

I did ask in some local car repair shops, but they wanted to charge an hour's labour (about £60), plus 20% VAT (tax) on top of that. That works out at just over £25 ($39) per crimp.

adama · Dec 5, 2014

I started out making pipes with little more than 2 blocks with a suitable hole size drilled through them a vice to squeeze them together to hold the tube then a punch made of nothing more than a 1/2" bit of bright ms with a hollow from a ball end mill drilled in the end. Mark 2 had a further hole up the middle and a bit of about a 3mm dia nail as a guide mandrill. Made lovely flares once you worked out the material stick out to start with.

Have one of the screw style too now, IMHO there complete shite in comparison. Mines a Seeley and i be buggered if i can get it to make a nice flare. Hell the clamps halfs don't even line up reliably. Won't make a nice ball like flare for anything, dies are just the wrong shape!

Don't forget some landy brake bits also use metric threaded nipples too just to make life that bit harder :-( These days i keep a roll of the copper tube and a good (like 10+) of each male & female + metric + imperial fittings to hand. Makes it so easy when a wheel cylinder needs changing and the bits are dirt cheap of some were like ebay or a good auto place just makes sense to have them to hand.

motion guru · Dec 5, 2014

Just a note on making the flares - I watched a Jay Leno video where they were making brake lines and the "mechanic" was using motor oil to lubricate the tube / flaring business end for each flare. The petroleum based oil contamination of the brake fluid will cause swelling and break down of the rubber brake seals / diaphragms / cups . . . etc. Not smart. Use the same kind of brake fluid that you plan to use in the system to facilitate any lubrication needs of the flaring tools / tubing.

mjk · Dec 5, 2014

"The petroleum based oil contamination of the brake fluid will cause swelling and break down of the rubber brake seals / diaphragms / cups . . . etc. Not smart. Use the same kind of brake fluid that you plan to use in the system to facilitate any lubrication needs of the flaring tools / tubing"

I've always a bit over cautious when working on brake systems
A can of cleaner goes a long way to make sure your parts are clean before putting together evan if its "new" material, along with a good bleeding

Limy Sami · Dec 5, 2014

Knew I'd seen em somewhere

Another option Land Rover Brake Pipe - Full Vehicle Sets

Mark Rand · Dec 5, 2014

I'm pretty sure I've got a Sykes Pickavant hydraulic set in the workshop that I'm never going to use again. I'll have a look tomorrow and if I find it and it's got the right size dies for your pipe, you can have it for the price of a pint plus postage if you want it.

:cheers:

Limy Sami · Dec 5, 2014

Mark Rand said:
I'm pretty sure I've got a Sykes Pickavant hydraulic set in the workshop that I'm never going to use again. I'll have a look tomorrow and if I find it and it's got the right size dies for your pipe, you can have it for the price of a pint plus postage if you want it.

Now, that is a very generous offer Mark

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