What's new
What's new

OT: Car jumper cables

Bill D

Diamond
Joined
Apr 1, 2004
Location
Modesto, CA USA
My 20 year old jumper cables have rotting insulation that is cracking and falling off so it is time for some new ones. I know bigger wire is better and some clamps are cheaply made and do not transfer current well. Longer ones are better but how long do I need for a pickup truck and a SUV before they get too big and heavy.
Cheap ones use extra thick insulation to save on copper. How big a wire is needed for occasional use. I see wire size from #0 to #14. Any recommendations on what makes a good clamp end. Features I should look for. Is rubber still the best insulation in cold weather, more flexible.
I would prefer to buy premade rather then source clamps and cable and make my own. I suppose. a welding ground clamp would carry the currents needed with no problems and no insulation.
Bill D
Why do makers think insulation for 12 volts has to be several times thicker then the stuff for 600 volts?
 
Thick insulation will be protection from damage, like being dragged across the ground or over sharpish edges in engine compartment.

Look for a tow truck supply place, should be top quality cables from them.
 
we used to do towing and a lot of cold weather jump starting, for the most part we used #4 wire cables year round with little trouble, we used two sets (one on each battery of both trucks) when jumping really dead diesel trucks in the winter. I did carry one set of #00 for semi trucks but rarely used them since they were so heavy and expensive. Lighter sets will not jump a dead vehicle with an open circuit battery because the battery will not accept a charge and all of the current for the starter has to travel through the jumper cables. The set I used most of the time is now sold by superior signals and lasted about 10 years of at least daily use. For clamps, I really preferred the parrot style clamps for their grip strength and durability. for length, I really liked having 25 ft. cables for their ability to reach past a vehicle for when they were parked in a garage or parking lot, and still not get too bulky. Rubber insulation is not the only flexible option and is best to avoid because if it gets very much oil on it ( usually in the tool box) the insulation will break down fairly quickly. lastly on the insulation thickness, thicker insulation is necessary due to the environment they're used in, often jumper cables are dragged on the ground, across sharp body panels and left in a tool box beating around with claw hammers, bottle jacks, shovels and pry bars. In the end, almost any set is better than none!!
 
Jeez. I have about 4 sets of cables....I can't recall the last time I used any of them. I'd give you set* if you were close!

*I have a set that were given to me by a former American Airlines mechanic...he bought them during one of their tool auctions. They are very well made, I bet AA dropped some big money on them when new.
 
I stopped using booster cables years ago after reading tech memos on the amount of damage to electronics they can do. The longer the cables the greater the potential for damage. All the pros here use jumper packs and many companies will fire a service tech or tow driver for using a company vehicle with jumper cables.

It CAN be done relatively safely but requires a bit of extra care. The jumped vehicle will have a low battery so it can absorb surges but the donor vehicle can be easily damaged when the cables are disconnected. What I was taught was after the jumped vehicle starts leave the cables on for a bit until things equalize and then put on lights, etc. to absorb and surge at disconnection.

I flat out refuse to use my personal vehicles as donors after what happened years ago. I gave a guy a jump and before I could react he jumped out, yanked the cables off at his end and dropped them on the ground, slammed the hood and drove off. I jumped out and separated the clamps, which were sparking. Before I got out I could hear the strain as the alternator got hit with the intermittent short. A week later I had a dead battery thirty miles from home. The carelessness of the asshole I helped blew diodes in the alternator, which turned out to be a rare high-capacity unit in that frame size. Because I foolishly traded in the (special) core for an off the shelf rebuilt I eventually wound up swapping in a later model alternator with higher capacity. The swap involved considerable wiring changes and I cursed my generosity in helping that asshole.

Booster packs have none of the problems of jumper cables which is why the pros use them.
 
I’ve got a set made from welding cable that I use most frequently. I didn’t make them.

My father in law gave us a set many years ago that were good, til I ran over the end with the forklift after jumping it.

Good ones are hard to find.

I was told years ago not to jump cars as it can kill the donor cars alternator diodes. I’m not a good listener, just accept the risk I guess.

My biggest problem is finding the damn things when I need them.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Jumping starting can ruin the alternator on the vehicle with the dead battery. If the cables are removed before the battery has at least some charge the alternator will be overloaded and can be damaged or ruined. I have a set I made out of welding cable.
 
When I was in the parts business I used to make up jumpers out of welding cable and hd clamps.Whittaker was one of the mfgs.
Seems like after I made a few sets word got around and ended up selling a few.
One used car dealer customer came in and wanted a set.They were expensive but that didn't deter him.Couple weeks later he came in and wanted another set."What did you loose them?" "No some sob stole them".Few weeks later he came in and said he wanted the cheapest set I had, said as much as he liked them somebody else liked them better!
 
I have a couple sets. I'd recommend #2 wire. I have a set of 2ga Forney's that I bought 20+ years ago at the local Peterbilt dealer. I see the current Amazon price for them is $189. https://www.amazon.com/Forney-52877...ocphy=9006807&hvtargid=pla-570698074923&psc=1
These Dekas look good. https://www.farmandfleet.com/products/054962-deka-professional-service-booster-cable.html
I don't use jumper cables much since I bought a Noco lithium ion jump box, that is way handier and I can use it without a second vehicle.
Tip - If you make your own and tape the wires together, stagger the ends by 10" or so, this makes it easier to keep the clamps from touching together accidentally and making sparks while the other ends are still connected to a battery.
 
When I was in the parts business I used to make up jumpers out of welding cable and hd clamps.Whittaker was one of the mfgs.
Seems like after I made a few sets word got around and ended up selling a few.
One used car dealer customer came in and wanted a set.They were expensive but that didn't deter him.Couple weeks later he came in and wanted another set."What did you loose them?" "No some sob stole them".Few weeks later he came in and said he wanted the cheapest set I had, said as much as he liked them somebody else liked them better!

Mine only have clamps on one end, the other end has an Anderson plug. The matching Anderson plug is bolted to my truck. No one borrows them as they are useless without my truck.
 
^ thats a good idea. I bought a box truck years ago and it came with a nice set, I kept them. They are 25 ft long, 2ga and I have used them a lot. About half of that time was used to help other people start their vehicles. I have been broken down in a parking lot before a few times and it sucks, which is why I don't mind helping someone get their car started.
 
I did not know that oil and grease will attack rubber thanks for that info. If I had a jump box the battery would always be flat. It is impossible to shop online since I can not tell the quality of the clamps and flexibility of them online.
Bil lD
 
I relocated (and added a battery) to my square-body suburban. Here’s the battery box and disconnect that fits lovely in the spare tire well:
feef325a32a05c5eb63ca29f5d1437f2.jpg


After a bit of rumination, it dawned on me that my truck is a tailgate truck, with a powered rear window and if I needed a jump I would have to crawl through the truck AND have double long jumper cables.

So I added this junction box under the hood:
e516114cc3b31e5d4eb36561faa8554b.jpg

31c68d023ace0871d25674e839ddd5e0.jpg

Those are 400 amp, cam-lock plugs. The dual Optima batteries have a bit more potential than that, but even with completely dead batteries it unlikely that the vehicle jumping me will be capable of supplying more current. I used up all my spare welding cable wiring the truck... it’s LONG, but I’ve got the female cam-locks and clamps whenever I get some more cable. As above, these jumper cables will only work on my truck (maybe a handful of others out there too). This is my first vehicle that isn’t a straight-shift and the first time in my life that jumper cables have even been a consideration.



Be safe and stay healthy




Jeremy
 
If I had a jump box the battery would always be flat.
Mine charges with a USB cable. I keep it on the floor or under the seat of my vehicle. After about 3 months of non-use it drops one light out of 4 on the ready indicator, so I plug it in the cigarette lighter for a few hours and it's back up to 100%. It's about the size of a thick paperback book, and it can charge cellphones or power USB devices and has a built in flashlight/warninglights.
GB40_full.jpg
 
I've ordered a few things from AW Direct (towing supply co) over the years. Not sure what, I don't do any towing, maybe some weld on hooks or something. Anyway, they have a nice selection of what looks like better quality jumper cables. This is timely because my Son and I were just discussing him getting some decent jumper cables and I think he was going to order a set.

Roadside Assistance | Zip's AW Direct
 
Of course those heavier jumper cables are more likely to result in surge damage. Thinner wire, higher resistance, less current, less surge.
 
I should have said trying to keep it under $100.
Bil lD.

PS: Covid warning, triple A will tow your car but you can not ride in the tow truck. It is up to you to get to the shop or home on your own.
 








 
Back
Top