OT- Electronics guys - 15 pin D Sub female connectors- Easier to splice in cable or

Milacron · Sep 13, 2016

easier to add the connector itself ? In other words, have older spec Heidenhain scales with their presumably unique 9 pin round connectors where I need to adapt to the new 15 pin D sub standard (the DRO's have 15 pin D sub male connectors so obviously I need 15 pin female D sub connectors)

I already did one of these, where I used L-Com cable with molded in 15 pin connectors and soldered the L-Com wires to the Heidenhain wires*....complete with shrink tubing on each of those tiny wires and larger shrink tubing to encased the whole deal when finished. It worked....but was a PITA....especially having to do it at the machine rather than at the workbench.

Heidenhain sells 9 pin to 15 pin Dsub adapters but the price is insane... like $140 each....but in my first case I had no choice but to do it the way I did as idiot previous owner cut the original 9 pin connectors off the cord anyway....and they cut the cord so short I needed the L-Com cord to reach the DRO ! (why they did this I have no clue :drink:

)

Bottom line is, can you buy 15 pin D sub female connectors where you press fit the tiny female recepticles to the end of the wires and then press the recepticles into the D sub connector with a special tool ? That would be the ideal... no soldering or shrink tubing needed for one thing.

And if you can buy such...where ? And what special tool is needed to push the recepticles into the D sub ? Casual glance at Newark Electronics and all I see are panel type 15 pin D subs or gender changers.

===============

*and before anyone says it, yes, the wire color coding Heinhenhain cable to L-Com cable was completely different so that the pinouts matched...but I figured it out

mTeryk · Sep 13, 2016

Funny, I'm sitting here drinking my morning coffee, browsing the MCM August sales catalog. Quick look shows only 15 pin male connectors with the crimp connections but I bet you they have the female as well.

I'd check their website first but give them a call. They have pretty good customer service and I've found their website to be inaccurate at times.

MCM Electronics: Home and Pro Audio/Video, Security and Test Equipment

Teryk

Monarchist · Sep 13, 2016

Milacron said:
Bottom line is, can you buy 15 pin D sub female connectors where you press fit the tiny female recepticles to the end of the wires and then press the recepticles into the D sub connector with a special tool ?

I have some. Somewhere. The rather more fragile pin extraction tools as well.

Capitol Radio Wholesalers was my US source. HKG source slips my mind. The present-day 'majors' should still stock them, but I'm YEARS away from 'current', so someone will have to dig. Or email and ask THEM to dig.

Bill

rwbaldwin · Sep 13, 2016

The other thing you could do is buy a d-sub extension cable, cut it in half and splice the wires together. The only thing you have be aware of, is that some of these cables don't have pin-9 connected.

Yan Wo · Sep 13, 2016

Milacron said:
... can you buy 15 pin D sub female connectors where you press fit the tiny female recepticles to the end of the wires and then press the recepticles into the D sub connector with a special tool ? ... And if you can buy such...where ? And what special tool is needed to push the recepticles into the D sub ?

I last did this a couple years ago on an avionics project. Yes, you can buy the connectors and pins. I bought mine from PEI-GENESIS. You will also need a crimping tool and die. Those tools alone will cost more than $140. But you can use connectors that have molded-in solder cup pins. That's what I suggest you do.

Milacron · Sep 13, 2016

rwbaldwin said:
The other thing you could do is buy a d-sub extension cable, cut it in half and splice the wires together. The only thing you have be aware of, is that some of these cables don't have pin-9 connected.

That is essentially what I did already... bought a 10 foot long cable from L-Com with 15 pin D sub female connectors on both ends....that way I have two connectors and two cables when I cut it in half. L-Com has the wire color codes pin outs on their website for that cable so you get good info too.

But as I said, that works, but is tedious and time consuming. Also I didn't realize when you get involved with wires that small you end up shrinking the wire insulation along with the heat shrink tubing, if not real careful with the heat gun, such that copper that wasn't exposed previously becomes exposed a bit.

lwalker · Sep 13, 2016

It's much easier if you use solder-cup connections on the D-sub connector than crimp. Mainly because the connections won't hold without a good quality crimp tool.

Here's an example: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/norcomp-inc/180-015-202L011/4815FER-ND/1767540

There's a connector that uses discrete wire IDC (insulation displacement connection). It satisfies your "no soldering" requirement and doesn't need a special crimp tool, but I have never used them on a D-sub connector. I know IDC works fine on rectangular connectors: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/1-745493-4/A31932-ND/808318

They do make insertion tools for the above, but I find a ground-down screwdriver works fine.

Backshells for the connector: http://www.digikey.com/product-sear...nectors-backshells-hoods/1442709?k=db15 shell

Lyndon

Milacron · Sep 13, 2016

lwalker said:
It's much easier if you use solder-cup connections on the D-sub connector than crimp. Here's an example: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/norcomp-inc/180-015-103L011/4815ME-ND/858221

They do come in crimp-type with socket receptacles, but I wasn't able to find them on Digikey

Lyndon

That would be acceptable as well... but do they exist like that in female gender with an enclosure/case for the exposed soldered cups and cable ??

What you link to is basically the opposite of what I need...already have that part in the DRO itself.

====================
This is it....if female exists...what is this, the Bible ?...such discrimination against females ! :stirthepot:

44 | DigiKey

Ah...found it....changed the M in the part number to F ! Now we are getting somewhere...

http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?keywords=4815FE-ND

Now to find the enclosures.... apparently known as a "backshell"....

lwalker · Sep 13, 2016

I must have updated my answer as you were reading it :-)

CarbideBob · Sep 13, 2016

I'm not sure I understand. Are you looking for a DB-15 pin crimp connector like this:
DB15 Female Crimp Connector Kit - Plastic | ShowMeCables.com
Fun to crimp on tiny wires and best pressed in the with little tool but they will just snap in. I use such a lot but sometimes solder the wire after crimp for safety.
I do hate the solder cup style. Too easy for an old man to screw up with a solder bridge and take too long to put together. Not to mention getting it together and realizing you need to swap 2 and 3.
Bob

Milacron · Sep 13, 2016

CarbideBob said:
I'm not sure I understand. Are you looking for a DB-15 pin crimp connector like this:
DB15 Female Crimp Connector Kit - Plastic | ShowMeCables.com
Fun to crimp on tiny wires and best pressed in the with little tool but they will just snap in. I use such a lot but sometimes solder the wire after crimp for safety.
I do hate the solder cup style. Too easy for an old man to screw up with a solder bridge and take too long to put together. Not to mention getting it together and realizing you need to swap 2 and 3.
Bob

Yes ! Exactly what I was thinking of :cheers:

(except slightly annoying they don't seem to mention the cable size range where it clamps the cable at the "rear"... I need 6 to 8mm).....plus they are amazingly cheap price.....although now I'm intriqued by the type that lwalker shows as well....maybe I will try both types...

EPAIII · Sep 13, 2016

I am not familiar with the Heidenhain DROs so I had to do a bit of searching. What I found was some images of what I think of as a military/commercial, female, circular connector with nine pins: one centered and eight in a circle around it. Looks like around 1/2" to 1" diameter, but that is just a guess as the photos provide no hint as to scale. These are fairly standard connectors which should be available, but there are many, many configurations so IDing it may be difficult. And they tend to be somewhat expensive. You can probably find them from standard electronic sources like Newark and Digi-Key. And they will have spec sheets so you can try to match what you have. For the most part, these types of connectors are solder termination, but they are fairly large so that should be easy.

From those photos I have to assume that the scales have a nine wire (of fewer) cable permanently attached (soldered to the PCB) with one of those round connectors (male?) at the end that attaches to the readout. You say you need to adopt the nine pin to a 15 pin D sub-miniature. But you don't say which way. New scale with 15 pin D sub-miniature cable to plug into an old 9 pin display OR existing scale with the 9 pin circular connector to plug into a new display with 15 pin D sub-miniature connector (male or female?). Or perhaps something else?

I would suggest that you use the spec sheets available on the various electronic sites to find the appropriate male or female connector and get a ready-made cable with the D sub-miniature connectors and solder the cut ends of the cable to the connector. If you get the wrong connector, send it back and try again.

Here's a start in the connector search:

Circular MIL Spec Connectors Product List | Newark element14

As for myself, I would try to replace the existing round connectors on the cable or on the readout unit with the matching 15 pin D sub-miniature ones. On the readout box, this would require some sheet metal work or perhaps just soldering a stub cable that enters the unit through the existing holes for the round connectors. On the cable I would use D connectors with crimp pins and just cut the cable and crimp them on the wires. I would not mess around with an adapter. And, BTW, that price you stated is crazy expensive. That's the "I don't want to sell any of them, EVER" price.

Here's a start on a search for D sub-miniature connectors with crimp on pins/sockets.

http://www.digikey.com/product-sear...t=0&page=1&quantity=0&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=25

Milacron · Sep 13, 2016

EPAIII said:
I am not familiar with the Heidenhain DROs so I had to do a bit of searching. What I found was some images of what I think of as a military/commercial, female, circular connector with nine pins: one centered and eight in a circle around it. Looks like around 1/2" to 1" diameter, but that is just a guess as the photos provide no hint as to scale. These are fairly standard connectors which should be available, but there are many, many configurations so IDing it may be difficult. And they tend to be somewhat expensive. You can probably find them from standard electronic sources like Newark and Digi-Key. And they will have spec sheets so you can try to match what you have. For the most part, these types of connectors are solder termination, but they are fairly large so that should be easy.

From those photos I have to assume that the scales have a nine wire (of fewer) cable permanently attached (soldered to the PCB) with one of those round connectors (male?) at the end that attaches to the readout. You say you need to adopt the nine pin to a 15 pin D sub-miniature. But you don't say which way. New scale with 15 pin D sub-miniature cable to plug into an old 9 pin display OR existing scale with the 9 pin circular connector to plug into a new display with 15 pin D sub-miniature connector (male or female?). Or perhaps something else?

I would suggest that you use the spec sheets available on the various electronic sites to find the appropriate male or female connector and get a ready-made cable with the D sub-miniature connectors and solder the cut ends of the cable to the connector. If you get the wrong connector, send it back and try again.

Here's a start in the connector search:

Circular MIL Spec Connectors Product List | Newark element14

As for myself, I would try to replace the existing round connectors on the cable or on the readout unit with the matching 15 pin D sub-miniature ones. On the readout box, this would require some sheet metal work or perhaps just soldering a stub cable that enters the unit through the existing holes for the round connectors. On the cable I would use D connectors with crimp pins and just cut the cable and crimp them on the wires. I would not mess around with an adapter. And, BTW, that price you stated is crazy expensive. That's the "I don't want to sell any of them, EVER" price.

Here's a start on a search for D sub-miniature connectors with crimp on pins/sockets.

http://www.digikey.com/product-sear...t=0&page=1&quantity=0&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=25

(sigh)....I could explain, but just read my original post more carefully and maybe second time around you will get it. Bottom line is at this point I don't need to "adapt" anything...I just need the 15 pin D sub female connectors. The round 9 pin connectors were supposedly a Heidenhain special design but long obsolete now...at least for Heidenhain.

Below is what the back of a modern Heidenhain DRO looks like...except most don't have so many connections...this Positip 880 is 6 axis capable...plus probe, plus serial, plus kitchen sink...

There are six axis connectors... 15 pin MALE D sub connectors near the middle area, under the red plastic protectors.

If curious, the connector upper left is for an edge finder probe and is female 15 D sub. The others are for a parallel port, a serial port, a remote console and an auxiliary machine interface ! The long AMI one is 37 pins ! But I don't need any of the extra connectors. no probe, no printer, no kitchen sink.....just the axis input connectors.

snowman · Sep 13, 2016

I use the crimp style then solder them....then press them in the back. I don't trust crimps, unless I have the right dies...and the right dies usually aren't cheap.

Radio shack has actually been doing ok for me lately...if I had time, I'd drop one of the 15 pin connectors in the mail for you. I've got too many.

EPAIII · Sep 13, 2016

Sigh! Sigh! Well, for me it is easier to add the connector itself. I like crimps and I ONLY recommend using them with the proper tools. To quote myself,

I would use D connectors with crimp pins and just cut the cable and crimp them on the wires. I would not mess around with an adapter.

and

Here's a start on a search for D sub-miniature connectors with crimp on pins/sockets.

http://www.digikey.com/product-searc...=0&pageSize=25

If you don't have a tool, here is one that isn't too expensive. I have used these simple crimp tools on the D sub-miniature pins and sockets and they work just fine. You do have to choose the correct notch. And do the insulation crimp after doing the wire crimp. Test your technique by pulling one apart. If some of the wire strands break, you had a good crimp. If it pulls out without breaking any, then it wasn't. Buy a few extra pins or sockets so you have some to test with.

24-7373P AIM-Cambridge / Cinch Connectivity Solutions | Mouser

Mike Henry · Sep 17, 2016

Would something like this work? They are pricey but a lot less fiddly than soldering and/or crimping terminals. They feature screw terminals inside the DB-15 housing for each of the pins.

2761596 Phoenix Contact | Mouser

Yan Wo · Sep 18, 2016

snowman said:
I use the crimp style then solder them....then press them in the back. I don't trust crimps, unless I have the right dies...and the right dies usually aren't cheap. ...

Some people advise that crimped connections should not be also soldered.

machtool · Sep 18, 2016

Yan Wo said:
Some people advise that crimped connections should not be also soldered.

Any reason given for that?

Yan Wo · Sep 18, 2016

machtool said:
Any reason given for that?

A comprehensive argument for crimp and solder and an equally comprehensive rebuttal is found at <AeroElectric Connection - Sport Aviation article by Peter Burgher Burgher>.

I believe no manufacturer of aerospace-quality crimp terminals recommends soldering in addition to crimping.

jim rozen · Sep 18, 2016

Correct. If the correct crimp type and correct crimp tool is used, no soldering is needed. The point being that
a good crimp connection like that is "gas tight" which means the interior of the joint is no longer exposed to the
environment, and will not degrade over time. If it is gas-tight then solder cannot penetrate the interior.

If the crimp is not gas-tight then it should be soldered, and this means it's really nothing more than a glorified
solder pot.

My suggestion is to terminate the cables in question with D-shell connectors, solder pot type. Then use a correct
back shell to strain relieve the cable to the connector itself.

Folks with elderly eyes are well-advised to use a microscope to do this job.

Tin the pots beforehand, then apply rosin flux to the tinned solder pots.

Strip the cables and tin them in advance. This will cause the insulation to 'pre-retract' and then
cut the exposed conductor to the correct (short) length.

Connector goes in a panavise, and the individual joints are made by sweating the wire to the
contact. Often the problem happens that the first joints made, are flexed a lot and fail before
the last one is done. This is avoided by looping the cable over your shoulder, so it is feeds
nicely into the work zone under the microscope.

No extra heat shrink is needed on the wires if done properly.

9 or 15 pin D connectors go very easy. Again, purchase the correct backshell for the connectors
in question.

OT- Electronics guys - 15 pin D Sub female connectors- Easier to splice in cable or

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