OT: Hot oil finish on aluminumn. It's hell to clean off. Has anybody got a process.

rons · Sep 2, 2021

Got a pan that is a tough beast to clean. Powder coat or auto paint would have come off by now with so much scrubbing.
Tried some lacquer thinner. No effect, the rag didn't even change color. Since I am dealing with some finishing here
I wondered if anybody has a process for covering aluminum with hot oil.vSounds like a bs amateur question I know,
but that stuff sticks like hell and won't come off. I am actually impressed.

The deposition process was using a tin foil covering on a pan and heating a Gorton Fillet at 425 F.
The oil on the package was canola or soybean oil. The film builds up from the heat and vapor.
Was just wondering if anybody developed a process for a covering.

52 Ford · Sep 2, 2021

Oops. I didn't read that right. NEVERMIND

atex57 · Sep 3, 2021

Oven cleaner? May not work well on aluminum.

Ed.

Conrad Hoffman · Sep 3, 2021

Yeah, that will dissolve the aluminum before it dissolves the coating! I found a perfectly good Whirley Pop popcorn popper at the dump. It used the same hot oil protective finish, along with some black carbon finish for good measure. I think I used steel wool and probably Barkeeper's Friend for about an hour to remove it. Oddly, it's never developed the same finish, so I've probably never reached the right "curing" temperature to polymerize the oil.

Gordon Heaton · Sep 3, 2021

I think the OP is asking for a reliable method to create this type of coating, not remove it.

rons · Sep 3, 2021

Right.

I've had chrome plating done before. And anodizing. Not all jobs came out good.

I have a black oxide process for metal that can rust. Some crystals in water, heat to 240F, soak metal piece.
Got nothing for aluminum yet. Have not tried Bonderite yet. That will change aluminum gray to yellow.

Dream would be to heat up a formula and dip parts and get a clear finish.

52 Ford · Sep 3, 2021

Gordon Heaton said:
I think the OP is asking for a reliable method to create this type of coating, not remove it.

Right, the first time I read the first post, I thought he was trying remove the finish.

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52 Ford · Sep 3, 2021

rons said:
Right.

I've had chrome plating done before. And anodizing. Not all jobs came out good.

I have a black oxide process for metal that can rust. Some crystals in water, heat to 240F, soak metal piece.
Got nothing for aluminum yet. Have not tried Bonderite yet. That will change aluminum gray to yellow.

Dream would be to heat up a formula and dip parts and get a clear finish.

You might have luck with some of specialty heat treat oils that knife makers use.

Another thought would be mineral oil. I don't think that discolors much when it's heated.

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rons · Sep 3, 2021

Yes, thank you about that. I have a knife making book I forgot about. Will look into that.

The first post attempts to describe what a royal pain this high temperature oil on aluminum pans is. How to get off.
So instead of going out to the paint store and buying some two-part clear, why not explore something that looks durable.

DDoug · Sep 3, 2021

rons said:
Got a pan that is a tough beast to clean.

Recycle it....buy another one.

Conrad Hoffman · Sep 3, 2021

If it has to be durable, coat it with tung oil. If its just cosmetic, use acrylic floor finish.

rons · Sep 3, 2021

I have some McClosky Man O' War Marine Varnish that dries clear and hard. Might spray with my air brush.
If anybody wants a recommendation on an air brush, you should look at the Grex (green). It has a bowl that
can rotate 360 degrees and there is a bottle arrangement that can make available several colors to the painter.
Colani (purple) is another good one. (Making the pedestal stands was fun) (previously posted in the past)

If there was some way to mix a formula of fluids:
First, an ingredient that would dry off fast but etch the aluminum surface.
Second, an ingredient that dries like a top coat but chemically bonds to the etched surface and dries clear. Maybe even a dye could be added.

52 Ford · Sep 3, 2021

Conrad Hoffman said:
If it has to be durable, coat it with tung oil. If its just cosmetic, use acrylic floor finish.

I coat pretty much everything in boiled Linseed oil. Tung oil is an awesome finish, though. When I finish wood, it's almost always with tung oil then wax.

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rons · Sep 4, 2021

52 Ford said:
I coat pretty much everything in boiled Linseed oil. Tung oil is an awesome finish, though. When I finish wood, it's almost always with tung oil then wax.

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If you like that then you will like this a whole lot more. Use the Sam Maloof finish formulas.
This stuff is in his book.

1st stage:
1/3 tung oil
1/3 linseed oil
1/3 varnish

2nd stage:
1/3 tung oil
1/3 linseed oil
1/3 beeswax (by feel)
I have some beeswax flakes that I just heat up and mix in until the mix is a cream pudding.

Takes a week to build up a good finish. Lots of hand work.

52 Ford · Sep 4, 2021

rons said:
If you like that then you will like this a whole lot more. Use the Sam Maloof finish formulas.
This stuff is in his book.

1st stage:
1/3 tung oil
1/3 linseed oil
1/3 varnish

2nd stage:
1/3 tung oil
1/3 linseed oil
1/3 beeswax (by feel)
I have some beeswax flakes that I just heat up and mix in until the mix is a cream pudding.

Takes a week to build up a good finish. Lots of hand work.

Thanks! I'll have to give that a try. I didn't see any pictures of my woodworking on this phone - otherwise I'd include one or two. I broke the screen on my last phone and need to fix it to get the pictures off... I will say, though, that I can get a really impressive finish with Tung oil and wax. I've actually gone over the wax with Ballistol on some rifle stocks and at minimum it didn't hurt the finish. Been doing that for years on one of my target guns. The stock still looks great.

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rons · Sep 4, 2021

I once found a lumber supply yard that also sold fine hardwoods. They also had quart size bottles of pure tung oil.
I bought two bottles. Since then I would like to hear of a good place to buy it. Since then I have just used the old
Homer Formby formula, but I still don't know how much tung oil I getting. Still, the finish is impervious to water marks
from wet glasses because the ice cubes all melted after you bottomed down that last stiff drink. :drink:

The finish and all the hand rubbing is a step below French Polishing.
I think the wood pores will fill up faster with French Polishing and that flat mirror effect is going to occur faster.
Without the abrasion products from French Polishing the hand rub method fills the grain only with finish and that is slow.
Some people like the grain, and others are always against the grain ...

52 Ford · Sep 5, 2021

There. Got a picture of the my go-to finish. Best I can figure, the rifle stock in the picture is Walnut.

By the way, the stuff that looks like rust on the sling swivel is just built up oil. Theres a bit of a ding there, too.

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rons · Sep 5, 2021

A high tech process would be when a aluminum part is immersed into a hot bath of stuff and immediate etching action happens.
Raise part out of solution and the atmosphere and/or cooling action will stop the etch behavior and start a sealing hardening operation.
I bet if this project appeared in one of those Air Force project books that come out every year, we would have somnething by now.

52 Ford · Sep 6, 2021

Might want to look into conversion coatings for Aluminum.

Look up Bonderite if you're curious.

I don't have any experience with it, but I THINK you can get a nearly clear coating that improves corrosion resistance. I'm sure someone else on the forum knows about it.

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OT: Hot oil finish on aluminumn. It's hell to clean off. Has anybody got a process.

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