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Harrison M300 electrical questions

Endmill20

Plastic
Joined
Mar 4, 2018
So this may be a repetitive thread but I just got a M300 lathe. I wired up the motor and it seems fine in the lower range gears. However if I put it in the highest Gear (1800) it takes a long time for it to reach the Rpm if it ever does ... Not sure that it actually ever reaches it, it always sounds like it is slowly gaining. And doesn't seem to be going the 1800 either. Is it possible to have a weak motor? It's hooked to 230 3 phase. Thanks
 
The manual I bought has no real information and I gutted the electrics to install a VFD. My motor problems were bad bearings that howled when cold.
The link is the manual I bought several years ago. See page 69.
T. S. Harrison & Sons, Ltd. - Publication Reprints - Harrison M3�� Machine Manual | VintageMachinery.org
Bill D

Only thing I can suggest is try it in both forward and reverse.
Make sure to remove the idler gear and clean the oil passage. Mine was gunked with grease.
A silicone baby bottle nipple can replace the bellows on the apron.
Some one on ebay has way scrappers for about US $25 delivered from Britain
 
I have an M300 that takes a few seconds reach full speed at 1800 and 2500 RPM. I think it is normal and mostly due to cold oil.
If your shop is cold, this is normal behavior.
As an experiment, you could try warming up the spindle by letting it run at a middle speed for maybe 20-30 min. Then try and see if the high speeds are reached quicker.
...Or get a heater in the shop.
 
I've had the same M30 for over half my life, I don't think I've ever been over 1200 with it!

we put a slightly larger HP motor on it when we first got it, but same speed and it takes a second or so to get up to 1200RPM.

the ones I used at college in my apprenticeship were the same.
 
Simple check that might shed some light: my M300 was 220v/440v . (Three phase) I had to re wire the motor for low voltage as well as the internal transformer which feeds the indicator light.
While troubleshooting I was able to check the 110v light bulb socket with a meter. While connected to low voltage three phase, the bulb was dim. Rewire the transformer and the indicator light goes bright and gets proper 110 voltage.
 
Simple check that might shed some light: my M300 was 220v/440v . (Three phase) I had to re wire the motor for low voltage as well as the internal transformer which feeds the indicator light.
While troubleshooting I was able to check the 110v light bulb socket with a meter. While connected to low voltage three phase, the bulb was dim. Rewire the transformer and the indicator light goes bright and gets proper 110 voltage.

Don't get me wrong this lathe is in great shape, gears ways even the paint is flawless for the most part. However the indicate light is gone and the work light and most of the 110/120 wires are missing or just hanging loose... But I can wire it up and check the way your saying! Worth a try!
 
I have an M300 that takes a few seconds reach full speed at 1800 and 2500 RPM. I think it is normal and mostly due to cold oil.
If your shop is cold, this is normal behavior.
As an experiment, you could try warming up the spindle by letting it run at a middle speed for maybe 20-30 min. Then try and see if the high speeds are reached quicker.
...Or get a heater in the shop.

My shop is at 67 degrees
 
Interesting topic as I just brought another M300 home. It was wired from the factory for 440 volts so I had to rewire the motor and change an over load breaker plus change a lead on the transformer. I was lucky to already have the other lathe because the motor has no schematic under the cover, instead the leads are long enough to go all the way into the control cabinet and are changed there. Having the other lathe I was able to compare but with changing the fluids and leveling which I am going to start today I haven't yet tried it.
Dan
 
Very quick to unbolt the idler gear on the banjo and remove it. See how the motor starts up now with 1/2 the geartrain disconencted. On mine the oil passage for the idler gear was plugged. A few seconds with a paperclip and oil can cleared that issue. I doubt it is actually causing any problems but it should be cleaned since it is so easy.
Also very easy to check the crosslide oil holes. Crank the slide all the way to the rear until it disengages. Push it back a few inches and the oil holes from the pump are visable. pump it once or twice and make sure oil comes up and the grooves are clean of gunk.
I could be wrong you might crank it forward or backward until it pushes off. Either way you do not remove it all the way just shove it far enough to see the oil holes.
Bil lD
 








 
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