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  1. #21
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    Radiator shops did most of my tank repairs back when I did auto repairs. They have the experience and expertise to solder that sort of thing.

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    I second the notion that clean used beats repair.

    However, if repair were the only route I'd proceed cautiously. AFAIK most steel tanks are continuous resistance welded at the seam. The flange where you have rust is outside of the weld and likely cosmetic.

    Soldering has always been the preferred method for repair. If your tank still has the shiny coating inside I'd hesitate to use high heat. If it were mine I'd bore out the old tube and turn a solder flange fitting for the new tube. Plenty of surface area that way and the outside of the tank is easy to clean and prep.

    The best paint for protection is moisture cure polyurethane (POR-15, Stops Rust, etc.). It won't adhere to shiny metal so for gas tanks they have to be etched first with a rust remover that leaves an iron phosphate finish. I've successfully used the POR-15 gas tank kits on motorcycle tanks, even one that had been previously sealed with a sealer that eventually failed. That would also be my go-to for the seam if the tank does not presently leak. Wire brush out the loose rust, paint with POR and crimp back together with pliers as you go. The stuff is strong as an epoxy and fuel proof.

  3. #23
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    Make new from fiberglass.

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    I did a quick 2000 Isuzu Trooper Fuel Tank Google and got ;-

    FYI 2000 isuzu trooper fuel tank - Google Search

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Limy Sami View Post
    I did a quick 2000 Isuzu Trooper Fuel Tank Google and got ;-

    FYI 2000 isuzu trooper fuel tank - Google Search
    100 dollars !

    You expect a Vermont-er to spend 100 dollars ?

    When he can spend 3 weeks on the clock "fixing" the old one.....

  6. Likes kustomizingkid, henrya liked this post
  7. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Limy Sami View Post
    I did a quick 2000 Isuzu Trooper Fuel Tank Google and got ;-

    FYI 2000 isuzu trooper fuel tank - Google Search
    Thanks Limy

    When I click on the links, my previously entered year make and model information is all ready pasted into the fields. Been down that road.
    The photos show tanks for other vehicles. I guess google just hits where it can to lead us in.
    JC whitney shows the Holly tank I mentioned in a previous comment. This tank does NOT mount via straps, and it is a side fill, not a center fill. I'm not sure that Holly really knows what they are offering. The tank would work fine for someone doing a custom 4X4 "build" for a magazine article. Unfortunately, too, the Holly tank does not have the fittings for the vapor recovery system. If that system doesn't pass test, No inspection sticker for me.

    Lots of dead ends on this one. I have thought of abandoning the vehicle under ten feet of salt water. ;-)

  8. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by digger doug View Post
    100 dollars !

    You expect a Vermont-er to spend 100 dollars ?

    When he can spend 3 weeks on the clock "fixing" the old one.....
    None of those references fit a 2000 trooper. Not one

    That would be $100 poorly spent. I suppose that works for people from PA. ;-)
    N

  9. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by russler View Post
    FWIW try Loctite "super wick in" around the seam. I recon that it will give you a few more years. Make sure it's dry first.
    Thanks for the suggestion. I'll look for it.

    It does say it's good for sealing welds. I wonder how it incorporates rust.

    Curious limitation on application fastener size. M6,

    [paste]
    LOCTITE 290 Wicking Grade MIL-SPEC Medium-High Strength Green Threadlocker is a medium strength wicking
    threadlocker for pre-assembled bolts.
    Penetrates threads by capillary action.
    Secures set screws and other assemblies after settings are completed.
    Seals welds and porous metal parts.
    Mil Spec: Mil-S-46163A Type III, Grade R. NSF/ANSI 61 Certified.
    Applications include instrumentation screws, electrical connectors and set screws and also seals porosities in welds and metal parts.
    <Max. thread size: Up to M6>
    Service temperature range: -55 to +150 degrees C
    Breakaway torque: 10 Nm
    [end paste]

    Not that it would effect my use. Actually, I'm sure I have that product in the shop.

  10. #29
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    Car-part.com shows 11 pages of gas tanks.... maybe I'm just searching something different.

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    Quote Originally Posted by CalG View Post
    None of those references fit a 2000 trooper. Not one

    That would be $100 poorly spent. I suppose that works for people from PA. ;-)
    N
    Strap It on the roof.....along with the "spare"....

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    Quote Originally Posted by tim9lives View Post
    Radiator shops did most of my tank repairs back when I did auto repairs. They have the experience and expertise to solder that sort of thing.
    There will always be someone else who can do things better than you can. But there is little pleasure in relying on others for small tasks.

  13. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by digger doug View Post
    Strap It on the roof.....along with the "spare"....
    You jest, It would get in the way of the HELLA lights and Hi-Lift jack. Plus running the electrical power for the fuel pump would be more than I could accomplish... on my own.

  14. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by CalG View Post
    You jest, It would get in the way of the HELLA lights and Hi-Lift jack. Plus running the electrical power for the fuel pump would be more than I could accomplish... on my own.
    What do you need a fuel pump for? Gravity feed.

    Tom

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    Quote Originally Posted by TDegenhart View Post
    What do you need a fuel pump for? Gravity feed.

    Tom
    The Trooper has an EFI engine.

    No fuel pressure, no engine sounds, no fun.

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    Quote Originally Posted by CalG View Post
    Plus running the electrical power for the fuel pump would be more than I could accomplish... on my own.
    We are done here.....

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    Most steel tanks for gasoline have a sprayed in coating to keep them from rusting. Once you damage that coating they will get surface rust inside the tank pretty quickly.

    I'd look into a plastic fuel cell like they use in hot rods and either fab some brackets to mount it, or just put it behind the seat.

    I also second the radiator shop. Every one I have ever dealt with fixed fuel tanks all the time.

  18. #37
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    Thanks moonlight machine. I will contact Fuel Safe to determine if they can make a bladder for the Eagle bodied Lagonda Rapier.

  19. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by CalG View Post

    Looks like NS has lots of them, I wonder how they get southern rust free cars up there? ;-)
    might be an issue getting one shipped. i have fuel tanks made and sell online. i get shipping grief calling them new, unused, never had gas in fuel tanks. so now i call them water tanks

  20. #39
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  21. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scottl View Post
    I've successfully used the POR-15 gas tank kits on motorcycle tanks, even one that had been previously sealed with a sealer that eventually failed. That would also be my go-to for the seam if the tank does not presently leak. Wire brush out the loose rust, paint with POR and crimp back together with pliers as you go. The stuff is strong as an epoxy and fuel proof.
    I used the POR15 liner on a '70s Deere diesel tank that cracked - welded it up, sloshed the POR15 and it held for years, until the tank cracked again. Replaced it then with an aftermarket fiberglass tank. If the OP has friendly boat shops around maybe a home made fiberglass tank is reasonable fix. You can cut the tank apart at the seam and use the 2 halves for molds then glass the 2 halves together.


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