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  1. #21
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    First rule of amateur plumbing: No matter how well the job is planned, you'll go back to the store three times for forgotten or spoiled parts.

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  3. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by atomarc View Post
    I don't quite understand where you would need to join these shiny chrome pipes that there wasn't an elbow or a tee or a whatever that would give you a spot to grab and tighten. Don't all plumbing pipes have some fitting on their ends?

    These days, it's plastic (PVC) or rubber it seams. That is why I posed the question as to alternate sealing methods when "taper pipe threads show up.

    Stuart
    Here is info on the unit

    Speakman Commander SC-1210-AF Exposed Shower - Speakman

    The upper connection is to a short extension fitted with "Shark bite" O-ring sealed adapter coupling. NTP X o-ring push fit to plastic pipe.

  4. #23
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    From expirence shark bite aren’t very good on chrome pipe, I’ve had 2 failures due to slippage, they work ok on copper but don’t dig in on chrome and stainless
    Mark

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  6. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by boslab View Post
    From expirence shark bite aren’t very good on chrome pipe, I’ve had 2 failures due to slippage, they work ok on copper but don’t dig in on chrome and stainless
    Mark

    Yes, I need this entire assembly to come off the wall every autumn.

    Easily dis-mountable fitting were part of the plan. But with that, the "Shark Bite"
    engages the added extension, the other end is FTP to suit the shower assembly riser.

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  8. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by wp6529 View Post
    Crimp ring PEX is very common here and tooling is ~$100 US. I've been using it a while and haven't had any issues with it. It's also nice when you need to change things as the valves and other metal fittings are easily reused, only the very cheap crimp ring and an inch of the PEX tubing is wasted. I'm getting ready to build a new hose and I'll be using PEX throughout, home-run to nice pre-fab manifolds. We did that on a friends house build near 10 years ago and still no issues.
    Yeah.... I did my house build with PEX. A major bonus is it isn’t ruined by freezing, plus, when it does freeze, since it’s flexible it self-clears once pressure is reestablished. I guess that’s assuming it froze because of loss of water pressure- which was what happened to me. Boy was that a Day of Infamy. New Years Eve.... some years ago.... my well pump went out; middle of a cold snap. Loss of pressure let my lines freeze. Replaced the pump, 135’ down, all day in literally freezing rain. Thawed the pipes. This is now day 3 since I couldn’t get a new pump on New Year’s Day. Finally, a shower! That was when I found out a plug of ice had formed in my drain line to my septic. Good, GOOD times. I achieved the rare trifecta of failed well pump, frozen water lines, and a plugged septic drain system! Yay me! Ahh, plumbing.

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  10. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by CalG View Post
    Yes, I need this entire assembly to come off the wall every autumn.

    Easily dis-mountable fitting were part of the plan. But with that, the "Shark Bite"
    engages the added extension, the other end is FTP to suit the shower assembly riser.
    Easily removable? Camlocks or unions. Preferably camlocks.

    Oh you want pretty as well as easily removable? Stainless camlocks polished to whatever level your heart desires.

    WRT pipe goop - Loctite 567 or Loctite 5331. All I use these days especially on boat stuff which is always in impossible positions and things never 'clock' nicely with teflon tape.

    PDW

  11. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by PDW View Post
    Easily removable? Camlocks or unions. Preferably camlocks.

    Oh you want pretty as well as easily removable? Stainless camlocks polished to whatever level your heart desires.

    WRT pipe goop - Loctite 567 or Loctite 5331. All I use these days especially on boat stuff which is always in impossible positions and things never 'clock' nicely with teflon tape.

    PDW
    Thanks for the loctite reference. I'll pick some up.
    It should be less messy than Rectorseal. ;-)

    At $100 per set, that would be a $200 disconnect. Not too bad, but there are still those pesky pipe threads to seal up.

    How does one clean off old Rectorseal? Acetone or MEK?
    Asking for a friend....;-)


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