OT: steel for making leather cutting stamps

Stirling · Apr 14, 2020

good day gentlemen

I have been approached to produce some basic leather stamping shape kits for student program in my province.

They are seeking "not junk" small leather cutting tools for basic radi, straight, square cuts. pretty basic.
I was thinking of milling the cutter bits from 4140 htsr pre hard. bevel cut a 20deg cutting edge, then abrasive wheel the final edge
Would this material keep a reasonable edge without additional heat treat?
I would assume so, but I'm no leather worker.

Going for a "Starrett" type quality craftsmen feel to the tools.
I'm considering an interchangeable head style. 0.5" dia 4" long punch with a square socket/magnet retention.
then bits that fit into it with the universal shank and cutter shapes.

the first project for the kids will ne to make the tools pouch.

I know I've seen tools made of bent sheet steel, but I'm not set up for that, and in our initial discussion it did not seem like the direction they wanted to go.

Thanks for any input

michiganbuck · Apr 14, 2020

Drill rod is easy to harden in small diameters, and not to difficult to fashion..

You might get design ideas looking at EBay,

https://www.ebay.com/b/Leathercraft-Carving-Tools-Leather-Stamps/183130/bn_55163290

Stirling · Apr 14, 2020

great link for examples, thanks!

carlherrnstein · Apr 15, 2020

I would use annealed A2 machine it to whatever, and torch harden. I like A2 for cutting tools when annealed it's easy to machine and it's super easy to harden with a torch. O1 is also good to work with.

MT.Head · Apr 15, 2020

I have used O1 tool steel to make my own leather punches of various sizes with very good results. Machine everything except the final edge grind before
heat treating. O1 tool steel is an oil quenching steel.

Scottl · Apr 15, 2020

As long as they are to be used dry carbon steel will be fine but anything for wet stamping must be SS or plated. The tannic acids used in the tanning process for most commercial leather will react with steel when wet and leave permanent black marks.

theperfessor · Apr 15, 2020

I've found that heat treating 4140 is as easy as O1. For cutting leather either would be fine IMHO. O1 might be easier to get in small quantities.

Conrad Hoffman · Apr 15, 2020

I like A2 because DIY hardening seems quite consistent. It's a bit more expensive than O1, which works OK too. No, can't leave 'em dirty or wet.

Stirling · Apr 15, 2020

theperfessor said:
I've found that heat treating 4140 is as easy as O1. For cutting leather either would be fine IMHO. O1 might be easier to get in small quantities.

Do you think 4140 would even require heat treat for this application? considering it will be purchased In the pre hardened state?

4140htsr is suuuuper easy to get in my region, way more likely that any tool steels. its a very go to oilfield steel in our region

theperfessor · Apr 15, 2020

Probably do just fine. I'd just be careful as I'm sure you will be to back up your leather with wood, plastic or aluminum. If you are unhappy with the service life you can always harden it.

rogertoolmaker · Apr 16, 2020

4140 verses O1 tool steel

Stirling said:
Do you think 4140 would even require heat treat for this application? considering it will be purchased In the pre hardened state?

4140htsr is super easy to get in my region, way more likely that any tool steels. its a very go to oilfield steel in our region

We try to select the steel for the end requirement and not because the steel is easily available. Both 4140HT, A2 and O1 tool steel are easily available. If your only going to use the tool occasionally 4140 will work fine. However, for heavier use O1 or A2 tool steel is a better choice. O1 is a better choice for heat treating with a touch than A2.

All The Best
Roger

triumph406 · Apr 16, 2020

Stirling said:
I know I've seen tools made of bent sheet steel, but I'm not set up for that, and in our initial discussion it did not seem like the direction they wanted to go.

Thanks for any input

Steel Rule Dies are the ideal way to cut leather. Their cheap and fast to make.

There's probably a reason they don't want to go that direction, not a reason I can think of.

Typically the die base is laser cut plywood, the width of the laser cut being the width of the die. After the plywood is cut all you need is a shear to cut the steel rule, some way of holding the steel rule while you bend it etc etc.

If I didn't have access to a laser cutter, I would make male/female shapes in AL, which when joined together would have the correct spacing for the steel rule.

The great advantage to steel rule dies is maintainability. Damage an edge, pull it out, make another one push it back into place.

surplusjohn · Apr 18, 2020

I used to be in a business that did alot of die cutting, so I also suggest looking at steel rule dies. However it sounds like they are thinking of arc punches or hammer punches. Our sterl rule die shop in nyc would make any shape you wanted. They hand forged and sharpened them. I had dozens of them for sample making. Most of those I picked up at auction but had several custom made. I know the heat treating and tempering allowed a hard edge and toughened shank. I saw the make these, guy made it look easy, probably had been doing it all day for 30 years. I have no idea what the alloy may of been.

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OT: steel for making leather cutting stamps

Stirling

Hot Rolled

michiganbuck

Diamond

Stirling

Hot Rolled

carlherrnstein

Aluminum

MT.Head

Plastic

Scottl

Diamond

theperfessor

Cast Iron

Conrad Hoffman

Diamond

Stirling

Hot Rolled

theperfessor

Cast Iron

rogertoolmaker

Cast Iron

triumph406

Diamond

surplusjohn

Diamond

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