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OT: Tires for zero-turn mower

machinistrrt

Stainless
Joined
Aug 15, 2008
Location
near Cleveland
I bought a zero turn mower to replace my old Toro walk behind. Trouble is, I have a soft spot in one corner of the back, it's been stuck three times. I'm considering either replacing the rear tires with bar lug type or replacing the mower with an International Cub with a belly mower. All three times I was stuck, my neightbor pulled me loose with an old Farmall Cub like nothing. What do you think?
 
I have the same problem with mine. Don't think the lugged tires are going to help as I have a small front-end loader/backhoe with very large lugs on the tires and regularly have to drag myself out with the backhoe. Suggest you look at some of the YouTube videos on unstucking yourself with a rope wrapped around the tire and tied to something solid or just leave that section alone until it dries out.

Steve
 
Here in my area of Florida, most residential lots are filled with two or three feet of a sandy looking soil. Perhaps if you hauled in a few loads of soil you could eliminate the problem.
 
I have two front deck mowers, one with turf tires and one with tires with tread similar to something found on a aggressive four wheel drive pickup but short of the lugged tires on my ATV. The turf tires slip. Fortunately that machine has four wheel drive or it would be stuck on most slopes. The aggressive tires have never been stuck but will dig a hole in a hurry. Raising the deck at that moment (which transfers weight to the drive wheels) and away it goes. Any tires will spin when the right mix of snot (grass and clay soil) are filling the tread.

If you are getting stuck but not buried, an aggressive tire should be quite helpful.
 
I have a Scag Turf Tiger. I mow around a pond. When i see wet on the front tire I steer away. Stay away from the soft spots. The more you rut things up the worse it's going to get. Not any fun getting a 1,200 pound mower stuck. The lugged tires may help some in the beginning but the holes will get worse in time.
 
I have an older Case tractor that originally had the "turf saver" tires. They would spin on the slightest of inclines when there was even a hint of dew on the grass. It could barely climb a hill with the mower raised let alone when trying cut grass. I changed the front tires to the ones with the 3 rib agricultural steering design, and the rears to the traction bar agricultural design. The machine now steers like it has power steering and can climb a 15% grade with no problem. HOWEVER you don't want to make sharp turns on a manicured lawn or loose traction on a hill. The tires will instantly destroy the lawn. You have to lower the engine speed down to an idle and let the tires slowly walk to firmer ground. If you put any power to the rear wheels at all you'll be buried up to the axles in seconds.
 
Buy sand instead of tires!

And don't forget, when you are stuck with a hydro static, It is counter productive to step on the speed pedal. That just blows pumps and motors.

Rev the engine and INCH the go pedal!

Slow wins!
 
I have a short, steep hill in the front yard. And a standard rear-drive gas mower. Traction is the problem, so I put two staggered rows of HVAC-style 1/4" drive hex head SMS, 1/4" long in the molded rubber wheels. That thing will climb any hill now, just with the additional traction from the 'studs' formed by the somewhat jagged hex heads of the screws. OP could do the same on the thick molded lugs of a zero-turn turf tire. (Using short screws keeps them from piercing into the air envelope.) A cheap trial or fix, and they're easily removable/replaceable.

Also works well making an old pair of boots into ice-storm-capable footwear. Again, short screws in the thick lugs keeps the 'ouch' factor under control.
 
I have a short, steep hill in the front yard. And a standard rear-drive gas mower. Traction is the problem, so I put two staggered rows of HVAC-style 1/4" drive hex head SMS, 1/4" long in the molded rubber wheels. That thing will climb any hill now, just with the additional traction from the 'studs' formed by the somewhat jagged hex heads of the screws. OP could do the same on the thick molded lugs of a zero-turn turf tire. (Using short screws keeps them from piercing into the air envelope.) A cheap trial or fix, and they're easily removable/replaceable.

Also works well making an old pair of boots into ice-storm-capable footwear. Again, short screws in the thick lugs keeps the 'ouch' factor under control.

Removable ? Would not all the air leak out ?

Why not just tire chains ? Those are removable.

BTW how do you park it/drive over concrete ?
 
I've had standers with turf tires and with bar lug tires, bar lug gave a lot more traction and increased the slopes I could mow. Down side is they have more traction and if you don't make a very careful 3 pt turn on each pass you'll tear up a lot more grass.

I try lowering the pressure in your tires, starting around 8 psi and going down to maybe 5-6 psi. You don't want to be rolling the beads off all the time. You do need a good pressure gauge that reads in 0.1 psi to accurately set your tire pressures. I mow through soupy spots all the time on my 60" grandstand, if it's level just go slow and don't stop / turn and you should be fine. Granted on a stander you can hang off the back to put more load on your drive tires.
 
Cobble stone size rocks to make a rock garden paved area and allow the grass to cover it over. Sand will just make ruts.
When Rothschild decided to make a nice garden in England his first step was to build a small pier for his narrow guage railroad to bring in big rocks for the rock garden.
Bil lD.

Exbury Gardens - Wikipedia
 
From post:
"(Using short screws keeps them from piercing into the air envelope.)"

You put the 1/4" screws into the 1/2" deep rubber lugs, so you're still 1/4" away from piercing the tire.

This originated on 6" hard rubber push mower tires, so no chains available.

Parked in a plastic shed with a plastic floor, and it drives over concrete/blacktop fine. Just don't spin the tires.
 
We too have SCAG.

Ground clearance just a few inches so soft dirt is a show stopper.

We shift watering schedule so grade is dry so less chance of sinking.

Aggressive tires results in bare spots on turns due to skid steer like action of most z mowers when doing normal turns by stopping a wheel

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
 
Deere Z950M here. Sometimes I wish I had more aggressive tires. But then I consider I might get into more trouble. limited traction may slide instead of roll over for example. I have some significant slopes to mow.
 
The Woods 59 is a good mower if in decent shape/ I bought a used one and used it for twenty some years and gave it to my brother, he used for a while and then it went to yet another owner. Never had any trouble, just a set of blades. If it does not have a drawing of the belt layout, draw yourself a sketch of the correct number of twists and turns direction of the belt. You will need it if it breaks. Don't forget to grease the lower/center bearing. It is easy to miss. Good luck.

JH

JH
 








 
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