OT: what size winch should I get for a trailer

rimcanyon · May 17, 2009

I'm tired of using a come-along to drag equipment and non-op vehcicles onto a trailer, and would like to add a winch. The trailer is a short (11' bed) tilt-bed, so it is relatively steep. Max load I will be carrying is 5500 pounds.

Are the Harbor Freight winches junk? Are there any others under $300 that are going to last a few years?

-Dave

davohouston · May 18, 2009

Ive got my eye on one of these for my trailer,truck $300

http://www.4wheelparts.com/Winches-...8&t_s=300&t_pt=100702&t_pl=6426&t_pn=S/B97281

The 8K smittybuilt XRC8 has a pretty good rep

77ironhead · May 18, 2009

in this same discussion with a friend who owns a rollback/towing company, his recommendation for dragging a rolling load onto my trailer (IOW a dead car) was a winch rated from 1/3 to 1/2 half the load's weight at minimum..... for non-rolling loads, all bets are off, you need a winch capable of moving the actual weight, plus overcome any friction. so to use your given example (5500 lb) as max weight, you'll want a winch capable of ~3 ton.

on edit: the numbers given are assuming 'ideal' loading conditions: smooth, level loading area, no obstacles, etc

Chip Chester · May 18, 2009

Just keep in mind that you can pull/drag most anything if you lace up the cable through a snatch block (or two) instead of a direct, one-line pull. It just takes a little more time to set and load. But it also gives you a little more time for reflection on safety and trailer capacity. Make sure the winch mount is built (or modified) to take the total pull forces, too.

Chip

Ox · May 18, 2009

I have an 8K Warn that I use and for the heavy loads - like a 13.500# forktruck - I end up trippple lining it. I even dbl line enything close to rated capacity. To have a winch rated at 1/2 the load weight on a ramp of eny steepness - I would recommend [from my experience] a winch of equal value.

So in this case - I would say that you wouldn't be happy with enything less than a 6000#. Dbl line the heaviest and single the lighter ones.

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Think Snow Eh!
Ox

motion guru · May 18, 2009

Dont discount looking for a high quality used winch on Craigslist or eBay. I haul a lot of stuff with my trailer - biggest dead load of 9000 lbs which it handled with a little grunting. I bought a slightly used Ramsey 12,000 lb rated winch and put an Optima Marine battery on the tongue of my trailer. I use that winch for way more stuff than I originally envisioned. It came with 100 feet of cable and was in good condition for $400.

Another thing to consider is how to mount it - I spent a weekend farting around with cutting and welding and painting (not great painting, but it is serviceable) to get my winch and battery box mounted and everything wired up. More to it than meets the eye especially when you consider how to mount it so that it cant be easily stolen.

click here for sexy slide show

Hdpg · May 18, 2009

Regarding mounting; the winch becomes much more versatile if you mount it on a stub of heavy tube that will fit into your trailer hitch receiver. Then attach receivers at both ends of the trailer and under the front bumper of your tow vehicle and you can pull in all manner of directions.

Ox · May 18, 2009

Mine came mounted on a Reece Ready cradle. I have never used it there. So far I just use log chains and a clevis to anchor it on the trailer. Not overly handy that way - but very portable - and I don't use it often. Glad it doesn't hafta live outside....

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Think Snow Eh!
Ox

Ohio Mike · May 18, 2009

Hdpg said:
Regarding mounting; the winch becomes much more versatile if you mount it on a stub of heavy tube that will fit into your trailer hitch receiver. Then attach receivers at both ends of the trailer and under the front bumper of your tow vehicle and you can pull in all manner of directions.

I was just going to say the same thing. I have a buddy that has one mounted that way. Receivers on the trailer, on the front and rear of the off road trail truck and another in the bed just to have a safe place to store it.

rimcanyon · May 18, 2009

I'm glad I asked before buying. Thanks for the suggestions - I really like the idea of using a receiver on the front of the bed to mount the winch, it couldn't be much simpler, and that way I can keep in in the truck when its not in use. Guess I will need to look for a winch that has capstan rollers on both sides.

But my question still remains, are the Chinese imports, which seem to be the only ones that are under $300, good enough to last a while? My gut tells me I should hold out for a Warn or another US made brand, but I may be looking a long time.

-Dave

Hdpg · May 18, 2009

You should check the line speed under full load for some of the el cheapo imports; you could probably do things faster yourself using a come-along with one hand tied behind your back.

CWB · May 18, 2009

i dont know much about the chinese copies...not really a fan of foreign anything when its something id depend on using regularly. i agree with those that say to use a snatch block or two. during my time in the military as a recovery specialist (heavy tow truck operator) and working on various small truck cranes i learned how a little simple rigging can multiply the force. make sure regardless what you buy that it has good quality cable and fairleads on it. a winch remote is a good investment and easy project to make too. you really dont want to see pictures of what happens when a cable with a few (or more) thousand pounds of force snaps and hits you. plus it allows you to be close to the machine youre moving and can react/stop instantly if it snags on something. rule of thumb for winches=non essential bodies need to be at least twice the length of the cable away when winching for safety!!!

Hdpg · May 19, 2009

CWB said:
..you really dont want to see pictures of what happens when a cable with a few (or more) thousand pounds of force snaps and hits you....

I use the heavy rubber perforated shop floor mats draped over the cable to give my essential body a bit of protection. But the best approach is always work well below the rated working load.

mulesandheelers · May 19, 2009

rimcanyon said:
I'm glad I asked before buying. Thanks for the suggestions - I really like the idea of using a receiver on the front of the bed to mount the winch, it couldn't be much simpler, and that way I can keep in in the truck when its not in use. Guess I will need to look for a winch that has capstan rollers on both sides.

But my question still remains, are the Chinese imports, which seem to be the only ones that are under $300, good enough to last a while? My gut tells me I should hold out for a Warn or another US made brand, but I may be looking a long time.

-Dave

Under heavy loading, amps = heat.
This is likely the most common failure on any electric winch motor.
Without a cooling cycle even the best of them will not hold up/for long.

- The locomotives starters were always stickered 30 seconds in start mode, then a 2 minute cool down cycle.

matt_isserstedt · May 19, 2009

There are a couple of alternatives.

- Use a 1/4hp (or whatever fraction suits) 110 vac motor to drive the winch. Yes this takes away "deep woods" recoveries...but ask yourself how often that's going to be the case where a 100' extension cord wouldn't get you powered and going. A brake is still an important option as is the capability to reverse.

- hydraulic winch driven from power steering pump ala the big boys (rollbacks). Simply, it never gets tired...simply idle the truck and away you go...a little more involved in the plumbing though.

I've always used lever chain hoists to winch things up...the ergonomics are killer but I've found getting a "rowing" position with a foot brace and using larger muscles to help out makes for the least overall stress...I have not met a load yet which wouldn't go up the ramps with the 3t hoist, even dragging & peeling softwood skids. Most rolling loads will arrive on the top of the deck with the 1-1/2t hoist.

rimcanyon · May 20, 2009

I've always used lever chain hoists to winch things up...the ergonomics are killer but I've found getting a "rowing" position with a foot brace and using larger muscles to help out makes for the least overall stress...I have not met a load yet which wouldn't go up the ramps with the 3t hoist, even dragging & peeling softwood skids. Most rolling loads will arrive on the top of the deck with the 1-1/2t hoist.

Matt, I agree with you on that, but the one thing I don't enjoy is going back and forth from the winch to the rigging that stops the load from rolling forward when the trailer tilts. It usually means ratcheting a foot or so, then loosening a safety chain at the rear a few notches, then ratcheting the winch some more,etc.

The electric winch would make that a *lot* easier, since I could use the remote and walk behind the load, adjusting the safety as I go.

I have been looking at 110V winches also - I have no need for remote loading, that I can't handle with the chainfall.

-Dave

Ed ke6bnl · May 20, 2009

I am using the harbor freight winch 9000 lbs. I have dragged many vehicles on my trailer going to pu a 99 dodge diesel front tires rubbing frame this Friday. I do have a snatch block and may use it this time. I reciever mounted the winch and can use it on other vehicle. Works good for me. Ed

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OT: what size winch should I get for a trailer

rimcanyon

Diamond

davohouston

Hot Rolled

77ironhead

Titanium

Chip Chester

Diamond

Ox

Diamond

motion guru

Diamond

Hdpg

Stainless

Ox

Diamond

Ohio Mike

Titanium

rimcanyon

Diamond

Hdpg

Stainless

CWB

Hot Rolled

Hdpg

Stainless

mulesandheelers

Aluminum

matt_isserstedt

Diamond

rimcanyon

Diamond

Ed ke6bnl

Aluminum

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