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  1. #1
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    Default Outfit This Drill Press

    The maintenance shop where I work has this drill press - a VERY nice one, Clausing 2274 - which has never been set up or outfitted. I'm making that happen. So far, I have the following coming for it:
    • 8" Wilton drill press
    • 2-1/2" Wilton toolmaker's vise
    • 52 piece step-block T-slot clamp set (the table and base both have T-slots)
    • Albrecht keyless chuck with integral MT3 arbor (spindle is MT3)
    • Height adjustable isolation mounts (feet)


    Apparently an extensive set of drill bits has been ordered already.

    What else should be considered essential? What would be "nice to have"?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails drill-press_6.18.14.jpg  

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    maybe coolant setup, tapping attachment, work light, mt sleeves, drifts

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    You want a Wahlstrom Float Lock drill press vise, you'll leave the other ones on the shelf for 90% of your work after you use one. I've got the 9" one I think, probably should have bought the 12" but it works great.

    Wahlstrom? No. M1-89 Ratchet Type, Float Lock Vices for Drill Presses On Eagle Rock Technologies, Inc.

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    maybe a cheep-o vise for when the welders go to use it.

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    Counter sinks,counter bores,spotting drills,reamers,tap-a-matic,cutting oil,tapping fluid,set of v-blocks,,,this list can go on and on depending what comes in the shop.

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    I have added foot switches with guards to my floor drill presses. Allen Bradley and Square D make good ones.

    Larry

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  12. #7
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    Given that its in a maintenance shop, and probably will not be used for production, a safety vice like rbent's suggested Wahlstrom float lock vise will make the unit much more handy. I have no experience with the Wahlstrom float lock, but the similar Heinrich unit is made in my home-town, so I suggest it as well.


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    Chuck key on a wire. as mentioned a vise and a few lay part on flat bars. a roll of tape for no mar jobs, Some easy to place spin stops that might also act as hold downs, an angle plate for stand up work and squaring to the side, a drill and tap chart, a drill size size card hanging, few sizes C Clamps. Perhaps a board under if the table has a lip so c-clamping easier. A combination square, punch, tap holder with having a center, hammer and a measure tape. Perhaps a bench next to mostly for holding tools but flat and strong enough to hammer on. Work light

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    Quote Originally Posted by michiganbuck View Post
    Chuck key on a wire....
    Not much use for the Albrecht chuck. But an ejector wedge on a chain is a good idea, assuming there will be some Morse shank bits larger than 1/2 inch.

    Larry

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    If you tie a chuck key to the drill press, use a leather or cloth shoe lace- not wire or chain! The wire or chain will beat someone up pretty quick if they experience brain fade.

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    Piece of 2" plate for morons to drill smiley faces in!
    Inappropriate calendar.

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  22. #12
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    Agree I should have said something easy to break. The wire I have in my key is single strand easy to break or just unwind and falls far away when not in use, not even a strong as a shoelace.

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    Dunno the situation in the states, but over here it would be pretty much a legal requirement to have a load of relevant health and safety signage plastered around it.

    unrelated, but...
    For many years I worked on crappy drill press that had slippy vee belts - the owner kept her going squeak free with talcum powder on the vee belts - whenever I am at a drill press now, I always am a bit disappointed that I do not get a nice whiff of Lavender or musk...

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    You won't like power tapping with the keyless chuck. Tapping attachment is the way to go. But for hand tapping, a spring-loaded tap guide is nice: Tap Guide - LittleMachineShop.com

    I got mine at an Enco sale for around $9.

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    Two shallow angle V blocks with clamp.

    A couple of 4 x 6 x 8 angle plates made of thick plywood with box jointed corners,

    A dozen thick plywood blanks intended to go between the work and table.

    A bi-fold equipment cabinet with painted outlines for every item.

    A motion activated security camera so you know who to flog for each hole drilled in the table anf to shoot for every theft.

  26. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan from Oakland View Post
    If you tie a chuck key to the drill press, use a leather or cloth shoe lace- not wire or chain! The wire or chain will beat someone up pretty quick if they experience brain fade.
    Albrecht chucks have a safety feature that makes leaving the key in the chuck almost impossible. You could actually weld the chuck key to the machine frame or lock it in the office safe and still use the Albrecht chuck to drill holes.

    Larry

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sea Farmer View Post
    You won't like power tapping with the keyless chuck. Tapping attachment is the way to go. But for hand tapping, a spring-loaded tap guide is nice: Tap Guide - LittleMachineShop.com

    I got mine at an Enco sale for around $9.
    An Albrecht is useless for left hand drill bits in addition to power tapping. But most drill presses do not have reverse switches, so they cannot tap from the chuck unless you remove the tap from the hole by hand. The Clausing specs do not mention a reverse switch. I like the Tapmatic for tapping multiple holes with a drill press, but a maintenance shop is not very likely to do production work where a tapping head would be useful. The spring-loaded tap guide is OK for doing a hole or two. I have something I like better, but it is no longer made.

    Larry

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    Quote Originally Posted by stonehaven View Post
    maybe a cheep-o vise for when the welders go to use it.
    And the carpenters...

  29. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by redlee View Post
    Inappropriate calendar.
    You ethnocentrist! Inappropriateness (Inappropriatality?) is in the mind of the beholder.

  30. #20
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    I like to keep my chuck key attached with a rare earth magnet on the side of the casting. There is nothing to get "ripped off" then as long as you are good about putting it back in the same spot. It also seems to work in a shared shop at work as well. I haven't had issues with the key itself gaining magnetism.

    I have a very similar Clausing DP and its outfitted with a VFD and footswitch which I use for direct power tapping from the spindle because I have the need to do that in quantity from time to time. I think my lowest vari-drive (mechanical belt reduction) spindle speed is 300rpm IIRC which is sometimes too fast for bigger bits. I like to run a little slower.

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