pipe diameter

blueboy · Dec 8, 2017

I have drinking water filters I need to run at .5 GPM max. I need to know the pipe dia. Best I figured out is .249 with a calculator on line but they don't ask for PSI. I think that would make a difference. PSI is about 90-95

Thanks, Blue

plastikdreams · Dec 8, 2017

blueboy said:
I have drinking water filters I need to run at .5 GPM max. I need to know the pipe dia. Best I figured out is .249 with a calculator on line but they don't ask for PSI. I think that would make a difference. PSI is about 90-95

Thanks, Blue

Pipe diameter for what? Are you trying to meter the flow by using a certain size?

MattiJ · Dec 8, 2017

blueboy said:
I have drinking water filters I need to run at .5 GPM max. I need to know the pipe dia. Best I figured out is .249 with a calculator on line but they don't ask for PSI. I think that would make a difference. PSI is about 90-95

Thanks, Blue

I think pipe lenght would also make difference but you don't tell

jccaclimber · Dec 8, 2017

Reverse Osmosis Flow Restrictor - Bulk Reef Supply

Here is how I do restrictor orifices on RO waste lines. I forget what the units are on these, it isn't terribly intuitive, but these guys have decent support. I'm sure the same thing is available elsewhere. They are rated for a specific pressure, so you'll have to scale.

Edit: A cheap needle valve somewhere in the system, a bucket, and a stopwatch will get you there as well assuming a reasonably clean input stream and consistent pressure. Note that I normally install these on the waste side of the RO membrane. While I have seen them other places you may want to ask about pressure rating.

blueboy · Dec 8, 2017

Yes, trying to meter the flow.

Pipe length isn't that long to make much difference. But it's about 15'.

I am currently using a small regulator but the problem is I'm getting a lot of air mixed in (cloudy water) going from high pressure to low pressure.
I'll check out the link after I send this. Thanks!

plastikdreams · Dec 8, 2017

Put the valve after the filter. This will reduce turbidity and allow you to meter the flow.

blueboy · Dec 8, 2017

plastikdreams said:
Put the valve after the filter. This will reduce turbidity and allow you to meter the flow.

I did, that helps, along with cracking open the main shut off valve.

WI50shooter · Dec 8, 2017

plastikdreams said:
Put the valve after the filter. This will reduce turbidity and allow you to meter the flow.

And use a globe valve for throttling, make sure your flow is in the proper direction indicated on the globe valve body.

Cole2534 · Dec 8, 2017

blueboy said:
Yes, trying to meter the flow.

Pipe length isn't that long to make much difference. But it's about 15'.

I am currently using a small regulator but the problem is I'm getting a lot of air mixed in (cloudy water) going from high pressure to low pressure.
I'll check out the link after I send this. Thanks!

What you're looking at is en-trained gasses boiling out of the liquid as a result of the pressure drop. At 0.5gpm in 1/4" pipe your liquid velocity is about 3.3ft/sec. Not terribly fast, but if you slow it down and give it a place for the gasses to escape you'll get the separation you need. You can do this by designing a very rudimentary 2-phase separator.

Take your 1/4" pipe run and at some intermediate point cut out a section of pipe and splice in some 2", maybe 12-18", then a 2" tee with a riser looking up for a couple inches, then swage back to your 1/4".

By going up to the 2" pipe your flow area goes from 0.049 sq in to 3.14 sq in, commensurately your liquid velocity will fall to 0.051ft/sec. It's practically stalled. This will give the gasses time to collect in the small riser off the tee, and then you just periodically vent that...or install an Armstrong 11AV air eliminator.

Kinda like this. ----<===_|_=>--- That little thingy looking up/vertical is where the air will collect, then you just vent it.

As an aside- this works the exact same for removing liquid from gasses, except you face the tee downward.

CarlBoyd · Dec 8, 2017

Cole2534 said:
What you're looking at is en-trained gasses boiling out of the liquid as a result of the pressure drop.

Agree

CarlBoyd

blueboy · Dec 16, 2017

This didn't work for shit!
Still getting air, cloudy water.

TDegenhart · Dec 16, 2017

That looks like a filter. Its not designed to remove gases if that is what it is.

Tom

rogertoolmaker · Dec 16, 2017

A 2" pipe will carry four time the amount of water than a 1" pipe, etc. Your water pressure seems twice what is necessary. With that kind of pressure you may need to add a pressure regulator on the incoming line from the source. This will protect your home's system. Your wanting to control the water flow with pipe size.

Roger

blueboy · Dec 17, 2017

rogertoolmaker said:
With that kind of pressure you may need to add a pressure regulator on the incoming line from the source. This will protect your home's system.

Roger

I had a small regulator before the filters. The filters (4 of them) collected the fine air particles and when they got big enough passed down the line. It was twice as bad like that. It may be somewhat livable now but surly there must be an easy way to fix this.

Something so simple shouldn't be this hard. :confused:

James H Clark · Dec 17, 2017

Are there four filters in the same line? If so, why?

JH

blueboy · Dec 17, 2017

James H Clark said:
Are there four filters in the same line? If so, why?

JH

Charcoal-Heavy metals-Floride-charcoal

Bill D · Dec 17, 2017

Copper tubing, squeeze with pliers until flow is reduced enough. I did not come up with this but a guy with a Nobel prize in physics did. He felt one advantage of his method was that once he had it right no one would be fooling around and adjusting it without his knowledge.
This was in an area where no one could go when the machine was running because of high radiation levels. It also meant that electronic monitoring would be doubtful. This was at least 30 years ago so maybe newer electronics are harder? But I doubt it.
Bill

blueboy · Dec 18, 2017

Bill D said:
squeeze with pliers until flow is reduced enough.
Bill

Well that's kinda what I was thinking by using smaller diameter tubing... From 3/8 to 1/4 or 3/16 or 1/8
I will do some experimenting...

DDoug · Dec 18, 2017

I'm putting in my vote for this thread, a winner in the "Most obscure & meaningless title ever"..... :crazy:

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/v...inform-what-your-topic-actually-about-307648/

TDegenhart · Dec 18, 2017

Whatever you do, don't use copper or steel pipe after the RO unit. A chemist I worked with told me that the water from an RO is so pure that the water will dissolve the copper or steel or zinc.

Tom

pipe diameter

Aluminum

Diamond

Titanium

Stainless

Aluminum

Diamond

Aluminum

Plastic

Diamond

Hot Rolled

Aluminum

Diamond

Cast Iron

Aluminum

Stainless

Aluminum

Diamond

Aluminum

Diamond

Diamond

Similar threads