Plunge cutting thin wall 316 SS tubing

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Cmachine84

Plastic

Joined

May 10, 2018

• Nov 13, 2018

• #1

I have a rush job notching the ends of some stanchions for 1.125 tubing. I am looking for tooling recommendations. I am using a manual Bridgeport and was considering the option of plunging with a hss annular cutter or entering from the side with a 1.125 roughing end mill. Cost seems approximately the same. My concern is folding over the roughly .040 to .050” wall tubing with the rougher. Annular cutters don’t mind interrupted cuts as long as the fixture is solid, I think. I think the tougher may work but have a tendency to push the thin wall open rather than bite. Open to all suggestions.
Thanks

 

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Cmachine84

Plastic

Joined

May 10, 2018

• Nov 13, 2018

• #2

The stanchion diameter is also 1.125” creating a welded tee essentially.

 

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DDoug

Diamond

Joined

Oct 18, 2005

Location

NW Pa

• Nov 13, 2018

• #3

Template and a hand plasma cutter ?

 

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Cmachine84

Plastic

Joined

May 10, 2018

• Nov 13, 2018

• #4

I have seen it done before but I am not equipped with the option of plasma. Thanks for the suggestion though.

 

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DDoug

Diamond

Joined

Oct 18, 2005

Location

NW Pa

• Nov 13, 2018

• #5

So buy one ....

Or send the job to someone that does it.

A PRACTICAL Machinist know when to sub out something
that can be done cheaper & faster somewhere else.

 

Cole2534

Diamond

Joined

Sep 10, 2010

Location

Oklahoma City, OK

• Nov 13, 2018

• #6

Abrasive may be your best option, but I'd try a hole saw first. IME, they have a more narrow kerf than an annular cutter and thus I'd expect lower chance of balling up the thin tubing. Would be tits if you could find a high quality fine tooth unit.

 

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Cmachine84

Plastic

Joined

May 10, 2018

• Nov 13, 2018

• #7

While I appreciate your input, I find it hard to believe that a plasma cutter and a template is the only reasonable option. I am not stingy with the tooling budget to a point.

Be aware I am not asking how to mill a 3” deep pocket in steel with an 1/8” endmill and a Ryobi drill press. I am an averagely equipped shop with machine tools.

Roughly two day turn around kinda prohibits subbing it out. This operation was an add on to the existing job.

 

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Cmachine84

Plastic

Joined

May 10, 2018

• Nov 13, 2018

• #8

Thin kerf is a good point. McMaster sells an annular cutter for multiple sheet goods.? Maybe that is the case with fine tooth for lots of thin wall or thin sheet?
Thanks.

 

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CalG

Diamond

Joined

Dec 30, 2008

Location

Vt USA

• Nov 13, 2018

• #9

How many?

Welded final product?

Grind that fish mouth. No pre weld cleaning to get the cutting lube off, No Nasty swarf, and no spoiled parts. Make a template that slides over the work piece to layout for material removal.

You are going to use a grinder to clean up the burrs anyway, Do it all with one process.

 

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Cmachine84

Plastic

Joined

May 10, 2018

• Nov 13, 2018

• #10

Only a qty of 16 parts. It will be a welded part. Abrasive seems to be the best solution.
The reason for asking about the two tooling choices is that the original part is being modified and I can’t really afford to mess one up trying different things.

 

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72bwhite

Titanium

Joined

Sep 26, 2012

Location

California, Ventura county

• Nov 13, 2018

• #11

and why would you want to crap up the edge of stainless using a plasma cutter.

for only 16 notch it with an HSS end mill 4 or 6 flute, you get a nice clean tight fit.
sure makes some nasty fine chips.
been there done that.
could have had it done in the time spent talking about it.

gives a good easy welding joint.

 

C

Cmachine84

Plastic

Joined

May 10, 2018

• Nov 15, 2018

• #12

Thanks for the help and suggestions. Abrading would have been a sure deal but lacking a belt grinder with the correct contact wheel, I opted for a plunge with a HSS annular cutter. The 1.125 cutter at the recommended surface speed and the auto fine feed as fast as it would go, .006” per rev it cut like a dream. Job done.