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Punching rubber

tjd10684

Cast Iron
Joined
Jan 26, 2011
Location
PA
So I got a recurring job in to punch out a bunch of rubber bumpers. The part is 3/16 id 5/16 od 1/16" thick d90 rubber. My first thought was to get one of those manual punches that does the ID and OD at the same time, I bought one and doesn't work. Both the 3/16 and 5/16 punches need to go in the threaded section. Like they are both expected to be ID tools.

Anyhow I have already made an adapter that I can use in my mill. It works ok for position, I can put one tool in run a program and then just change the tool and run the program again.

My issue is sticking the rubber to a backer. I am currently using carpet tape to try to keep the rubber in place but it tends to not stick very well to the rubber. More than once I have ruined a sheet and had it whipped in my face. I have tried cleaning it with just about everything I got in the shop to try to get any kind of mold release off, no dice so far. This makes what should be a super easy walk away job a real pain since it needs constant babysitting.


So my question is, is there some kind of tape that I should be looking into or maybe even something like a water soluble or heat activated glue?
 
Way back when I had a non-mag job that needed to be taped down We bought a roll of industrial-grade double back that cost a bundle (think it was 30 bucks or more.). For grinding the block-in is as important as the tape.
After I found the $2.00 hardware store tape did as well.

Your job seems just the opposite...you may need the better tape.
Here is one but likely not the one I tried.
Shurtape DF-642 Industrial-Grade Double-Sided Cloth Tape

Here very expensive tape. ( but the same holding as above)
https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn...309574360&utm_content=Tape Ad Group - Product

Old tape on the store shelf that sat for a year is not/may not be as good as fresh tape. (
 
Peter,
Learned something today, never heard of quad rings or X rings. I've worked with O rings for my whole career. Googled them and and understand the advantage. Wonder why they aren't more popular?
 
Peter,
Learned something today, never heard of quad rings or X rings. I've worked with O rings for my whole career. Googled them and and understand the advantage. Wonder why they aren't more popular?

They're generally much more expensive than regular o-rings. O-rings are dirt cheap, which is why I suggested them.
 
So I got a recurring job in to punch out a bunch of rubber bumpers. The part is 3/16 id 5/16 od 1/16" thick d90 rubber. My first thought was to get one of those manual punches that does the ID and OD at the same time, I bought one and doesn't work. Both the 3/16 and 5/16 punches need to go in the threaded section. Like they are both expected to be ID tools.

Anyhow I have already made an adapter that I can use in my mill. It works ok for position, I can put one tool in run a program and then just change the tool and run the program again.

My issue is sticking the rubber to a backer. I am currently using carpet tape to try to keep the rubber in place but it tends to not stick very well to the rubber. More than once I have ruined a sheet and had it whipped in my face. I have tried cleaning it with just about everything I got in the shop to try to get any kind of mold release off, no dice so far. This makes what should be a super easy walk away job a real pain since it needs constant babysitting.


So my question is, is there some kind of tape that I should be looking into or maybe even something like a water soluble or heat activated glue?

A dinking die is not that expensive, where in Pa are you located ?
 
I cut odd size seals quite frequently. my favorite method was to create a tool to go in the spindle with two #11 scalpel blades offset differently radially. One to cut ID and one to cut OD. with the tips set at the same Z. This method works very well.

For tape i tend to use the 3M double stick tape. Alcohol clean your rubber and you can get several sticks before having to replace.
 
Are you right on the nominal? Any reason you can't use a -008 square ring?

Also, any reason you can't get them lathe cut? Die cutting is really wasteful compared to molding and lathe cut.
 
I buy a shitload of squarerings for a product. The ones I buy are cut from sheet.

Square rings are, well, square rings. They aren't quad rings or O-rings. Dirt cheap too.
 
A few people have mentioned spinning the tool to cut the rubber. I think this is the key. I often need to cut rubber seals for various projects and they can be a bitch. It's almost easier to use a tool post grinder on the lathe to grind the rubber down to size. A slow and tedious method at best. When I have to make a bunch of them, I use the mill. A thin wall tube chucked in the mill cuts very nicely with a little lube. Remember the old laboratory cork cutters? I had to cut about 500 odd size rubber "washers". I used two concentric brass tubes one beveled on the outside and the other beveled on the inside. A nylon sleeve between the two kept them concentric. The sleeve had a strong spring pushing it down from the top to eject the washers. I used a pipe cutter on the outside tube which created a small inside ridge to keep the sleeve from being ejected along with the washer. A brass "washer" was soldered between the outside tube and the inside tube at the top to hold it all together.
 
We use 3m spray glue to machine .005-.01" shims. Face mill a block of alum, clean with acetone, scuff with scotch brite, spray a layer of glue, shoot with air to make it tacky, then roll the shim material onto it, let dry a bit, then machine.
 
Often lightly tapping the piece to improve contact will make a tighter bond. In this case, I would use a rubber mallet and go all over the piece. Rolling it might also help.

Bill
 
water is the usual lube for rubber cutting. He is not punching them he seems to be drilling them out? Either that or he is using a ridiculous fast quill stroke speed to throw the rubber around
Bill D
 








 
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