Radial Arm Drill Stuck at Maximum Elevation
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  1. #1
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    Default Radial Arm Drill Stuck at Maximum Elevation

    Is there a way to manually lower the arm on my American Hole Wizard from the maximum elevation? The powered mechanism won't engage to lower it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rbdjr59 View Post
    Is there a way to manually lower the arm on my American Hole Wizard from the maximum elevation? The powered mechanism won't engage to lower it.
    REALLY all the way up? Off its max travel? Cannot even manually turn the power source? You have tried that?

    If No Joy, you very well may need to rig an independent means to RAISE it and safely even beyond where it sits.

    That is a "non-trivial exercise" as you may need a good deal of movement.

    Then see to whether it has been run off the elevating mechanism in a manner that buggered up the ends of it. Correct any such damage, all players.

    Once clean, using that independent lifting & positioning control, sneak it back down, very, very carefully and manually re-engage the mechanism.

    The rest should be obvious.

    Including "Just don't DO that s**t, again, 'coz it is a ROYAL Pain in the anatomy to correct!"

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    I don't think it is off the screw because the screw runs from a fixed position at the top and is visible at the bottom, although free from any type of connection there. There is an electric component to the mechanism that I think is hitting a limit switch and preventing the clutch from engaging, or dis-engaging as it were. I raised the arm until it hit a mechanical stop and dis-engaged the lifting mechanism. I have adjusted the mechanical stop so that it no longer pushes against the connection but the arm will still not lower.screenshot_2019-08-13-001-jpg-atw-holewizard2-1938-si-pdf.jpg

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    Quote Originally Posted by rbdjr59 View Post
    I don't think it is off the screw because the screw runs from a fixed position at the top and is visible at the bottom, although free from any type of connection there. There is an electric component to the mechanism that I think is hitting a limit switch and preventing the clutch from engaging, or dis-engaging as it were. I raised the arm until it hit a mechanical stop and dis-engaged the lifting mechanism. I have adjusted the mechanical stop so that it no longer pushes against the connection but the arm will still not lower.screenshot_2019-08-13-001-jpg-atw-holewizard2-1938-si-pdf.jpg
    Are you able to confirm the clutch is even being ASKED to engage and not knocked out of ability to engage? Alignment issue?

    If not, and the limit switches were hardly ever activated, there is a better than even chance they'd get crudded up and stick - internally - once they were hit.

    Might need to clean or replace those, then?

    CAVEAT: I haven't had my hands on one since 1965, 8-footer. But it was an older ATW, even then - prior to the "Hole Wizard" name. We also had the baby, a 5-footer, plus another Grand-old radial DP make @ 3-foot or so.
    Last edited by thermite; 08-14-2019 at 12:28 PM.

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    What vintage and size? I have a book on newer little unit. The YOM is on the end of the arm.

    ISTR later model units had a safety on the screw that actually mechanically disengaged the screw, but that may only have been for lower.

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    I'm assuming the micro switch is stuck. Happened to me on a lathe recently. Hopefully your electrician can manually engage the lowering. Once he gets it off the switch, with any luck you can free it up or replace it.

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    Definitely electrical. This machine has sat for several years but I did have it raising and lowering the arm earlier in the day. I did notice that the screw was not turning when the arm was moving but did turn when the arm wouldn't move. I think this is related to an auto disconnect feature if the arm lowers into the part. I will have to study it further. It is an old American Hole wizard 40's era. 4' arm on an 11" column.dscn2654.jpg043.jpg

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    Quote Originally Posted by rbdjr59 View Post
    Definitely electrical. This machine has sat for several years but I did have it raising and lowering the arm earlier in the day. I did notice that the screw was not turning when the arm was moving but did turn when the arm wouldn't move. I think this is related to an auto disconnect feature if the arm lowers into the part. I will have to study it further. It is an old American Hole wizard 40's era. 4' arm on an 11" column.dscn2654.jpg043.jpg
    You might try.... finding some tire-cord (doormat or conveyor belting, cord-in).. multiple worm-gear hose-clamping a length of it, full -wrap, to the exposed screw tighter'n Hell.. applying a Stillson wrench to inch the screw around so as to back the head away from the switches.. AND get it back into the clutch range?

    So you can at least get access. Or maybe even have it come back to life.

    Mind you get the hasty tire-cord-condom out of the way, too, but that'll transmit one helluva lotta grip without leaving scars. Makes leather look like grease, by comparison, too. So long as grease and oil are not a big factor, anyway.

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    I can see teeth marks on the bottom of the screw where someone went after it with a pipe wrench. Last resort.

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    Directly from a sales brochure:

    A very effective safety unit is provided in the form of an angular clutch at the top of the stationary elevating screw which automatically disengages and instantly stops the functioning of the elevating mechanism if the arm, the tool or the head is accidentally permitted to strike the work while being lowered. This is an automatic protective feature of inestimable value.

    So its lowering only, not raising. pm me a direct email and I can send you a couple of photo's of the relevant pages of the parts illustrations.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rbdjr59 View Post
    I can see teeth marks on the bottom of the screw where someone went after it with a pipe wrench. Last resort.
    Idiots. Leather was the go-to for generations. Close as your own waist. Cord- in conveyor belting is better. Even scrap Vee belts CAN work.

    PS: Cord-in scraps of radiator hose does NOT usually work. Too thin. The pipe wrench teeth can bite clear though it instead of just compressing the rubber/fabric matrix. DAMHIKT
    Last edited by thermite; 08-15-2019 at 10:56 AM.

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